Jump to content

Another Noob


OldRock

Recommended Posts

Posted

Yep, another new guy. Realizing that my "first new-off-the-lot truck" is now 12+ years old; things are wearing out and I want to keep her going. 138K on the clock, and I've replaced the clutch (I pull too many heavy loads of livestock, and the wife never did learn how to drive stick), water pump and A/C compressor - brakes, belts and shocks don't count; and the alternator/batteries can only be expected to die in the desert while powering my Ham Radio gear.

 

I want to keep the old girl as she is - the most reliable vehicle vehicle I've ever seen - and pass it on to the daughter who is only 5 years older than the truck and wants it.

 

Looking for interior parts, sheet metal, etc; and I'm worried about the rear axle - that old 10 bolt has been carrying waaaaaaay more than its fair share of BIG loads. 5-speed's starting to growl every now and then in 1st and 2nd gears, gotta pull off the steering wheel and screw down the bolts in the tilt column assembly (again), door pull/armrest has broken and fallen off on the driver's side; the usual stuff.

 

I love this truck; she's been faithful and reliable as an anvil; even though I treated her like it says 3500 (not 1500) on the body molding from exactly one week after she came home with me. The daughter loves this truck, and she wants it to get herself, her dog and her horses around. I'd be an idiot to say no.

 

So here I am.

 

Jimmy

Posted

Howdy!

 

Depending on where you live, there should be tons of parts available for your truck.

 

There are at least 3 places within 15 minutes driving time from me that carry new and used parts for my 92. (I live in OKC.)

 

Welcome to the forum, lots of good information here. :withstupid:

Posted

Do any of them mail-order? The armrest/door pull is really killing me! Mechanical parts are no problem, and I was able to "find" courtesy lamp switches ("Door Switches") and an Emergency Brake release cable from company trucks that were destined for the auction yard :nono: But that door pull is a dealer only item and the dealer is still trying to find NOS.

 

Oh yeah, I haven't replaced the brake light switch yet; dealer wants too flippin' much and only the contacts which light the brake lights are sticking. I've gone a long ways down the raod with the cruise on ("cruise disable" is handled by the brake light switch AUX contacts) and had people from behind tell me that I'm riding my brakes! :withstupid:

 

 

 

Jimmy

Posted

Welcome :lol: Id expect your truck to be around for a good bit more years to come. I have one pushing 10 years (in November) with almost 174,000 miles and she runs like the day she was new. :jester:

Posted

I don't think that they do mail order, but when I get home tonight I'll dig up their card and give them a call tomorrow. See if they have a couple of parts.

 

We could probably work it out where I could gather them up for you....What year? What color? Any other parts you want me to ask after? I'll also ask if they will ship, as we don't know each other from Adam, and trusting strangers on the internet is (unfortunately) never really a good idea.

 

The brake light thing......I seem to remember there being a spring that was worn causing my old 89 to do the same thing....I just swapped ends on it, and stretched it, and no more "riding the brakes".....It's been 10 years since, so I can't be more specific on that one, sorry.

 

Let me know :jester:

Posted

Sounds like a plan! I agree with you on the "strangers on the Internet" thought; I've been lucky exactly once - bought a used Ham Radio from an unsolicited offer. I'd asked for opinions on a specific style of radio, one guy approached me. We agreed on half-payment in advance, half if I liked it. Looked mint, did a search on the S/N; truned out the dealer that sold it had record of the sale. Good luck that time, been burnt several other times.

 

If they'll ship either COD or take credit cards, I'd be very interested. Biggest need/want is a door pull (armrest) for the driver's door. '91 Silverado medium blue. The switches I'll grab new from the local dealer.

 

 

For MCourson: What year/model? My major concern is the 1/2 ton's 10-bolt rear axle. I'd read in a 4x4 magazine (though mine's a 4x2) that they don't like to be stressed much. I've pulled a few "3-ton plus" loads with the tongue weight well over the 600 lb limit of my hitch, many loads right at the limit; no troubles yet, but I'm worried about "that time" coming. Local truck garage owner said it's no biggie. If it gives up but the tubes are still straight, new half shafts and some oversize (O.D.) bearings will work well. Since he takes care of a bunch of overloaded 1/2 tons for my employer; I'd guess he has a good postion from which to speak. Since the old girl will someday be dragging around a loaded horse trailer for my kid; I'm wanting it to stay reliable.

 

 

Jimmy

Posted

Mines a '94 c1500 2wd reg cab stepside. It has been overloaded before but not very much. I doubt youll have any real major problems.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,924
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    KirbyCo
    Newest Member
    KirbyCo
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,472 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I will be doing that for sure, but I need to solve who has/ where I can find a bidirectional scan tool that will support OBD 1.5. I'm kicking myself because I ebay'ed a Snap On MT2500 that I didn't think I'd ever need anymore. D'oh!! I'd rather not buy another, so I'll contact a few local shops to see if they have one and how much they'd want to do the procedure. I'd rather have the ability to do it myself... I wish there was a modern tool that could do it all, but I'd have no idea what to buy.   The theory with the pulled timing is that it mimics a rich condition. The delayed spark causes incomplete burn and the O2 sensor picks up low oxygen levels. That's interpreted as a rich condition so the PCM pulls fuel and that shows up in the deeply negative fuel trims.
    • An ultra wealthy man had the most beautiful daughter. But, there was a problem. Everything she touched would melt in her hands. No matter what, Metal, Wood, Stone. Anything she touched would melt. She could not feed herself. Because of this, men were afraid of her. Nobody would dare marry her. Her father was despaired. What could he do to help his daughter? He consulted doctors, scientists and anybody who could solve this problem. Finally one of them said, "If your daughter touches one thing that does not melt in her hands, she will be cured." He was overjoyed and came up with a plan. The next day, he held a competition. Any man who could bring his daughter an object that would not melt in her hands would be given billions of dollars to marry her. Three extremely intelligent and handsome young men took up the challenge. The first brought a very heavy steel rod, But alas, when the she touched it, it completely melted in a matter of seconds. He sadly went away. The second brought a beautiful diamond, knowing diamonds were one of the hardest substance in the world and would not melt. But alas, once she held it in her hand, it melted. He too was sent away disappointed. So now, there was one left He was very nervous & sweating. He approached the daughter & said, “put your hand in my pants pocket and feel what is in there." She did exactly what he asked. She felt something very hard. She held it in her hand, squeezing it as hard as she could. It did not melt & remained extremely hard. Her father was overjoyed. Everybody was overjoyed. She was finally cured. Nothing never, ever melted in her hand again. They married and they both lived happily ever after, raising a wonderful family. Question: What was in the the groom’s pants pocket??? Answer below ↓ M&Ms of course! They melt in your mouth, not in your hand. What on earth were you thinking?
    • There's a bunch of tea leaves that you've read, but in any case the delayed timing is unusual. Not sure how that relates to the rich at idle vs. 'normal' while driving.   If you're in this deep, might be worth investigating, and re-learning the sensor. What have you got to lose? Plus, it properly fixes the timing cover leak.
    • The only problem I have seen this cause is longer crank times. 
    • Injector is being sent off today for rebuild and I estimate I'll have it back in 10 days or so.   It may not be the injector...of course...now that I've torn down the intake again. But, let's rule out the injector and replace those spider legs that have been almost rubbed through.   The truck has always had negative timing and I'm reading "normal" timing at warm idle should be +16 or so. I'm negative 16 to 25 or more, and it's always been like that since I bought it.   A light turned on upstairs last night in the old noggin. Rare, I know...   This will be wild, if it turns out to be the cause!   In 2001, according to the old service documentation, the muffler was replaced. Why? I have no idea, it wouldn't have been rusted through by then. But they did a crappy job.   In 2019, another shop replaced it and noted the prior install was poorly done on the work order. "Exhaust system vibrates on crossmember". Except...I guess they just left it be? I believe the husband, the couple who were original owners, had passed by then. Maybe she said it's just not worth it to have the exhaust system fixed and declined repairs. Very few miles were driven between 2019 and 2025.   The exhaust system vibrates heavily on the crossmember and you can feel it and REALLY hear it, even today. Not always, but at idle, it gets going pretty good sometimes.   What if....   ....What if that's enough to trigger one or both of the knock sensors? Could it be tricking the sensors into sensing knock, so it's pulling timing aggressively? Pulling timing heavily means it's firing after the piston reaches full height which means incomplete burn which means the O2 sensor is sensing a rich condition, which means I've been chasing my tail, and what I thought was an inconsequential problem (janky exhaust) has been THE issue for this truck for 25 solid years?   That would be wild. Maybe it IS wild.   The service documentation thereafter, for years, shows visits for rough idle, replacing O2's, replacing the cat, replacing plugs and wires, a misfire condition, like they could never solve the issue. The injector has been replaced 4 times in 80k miles, that's just crazy.   The secondary theory....   The engine has clearly had a leak at the front seal for a very long time (the greasy trench...). I think the truck changed hands quickly ~2025 because there's Napa receipts from someone I don't recognize in the ownership history. They apparently replaced the timing cover seal, and they did a terrible job. There's RTV smeared all over and the leak I had reduced to a weep by snugging the front oil pan bolts is now a leak again.   HOWEVER....I read about replacing the crankshaft position sensor. Any time the ckp sensor is disturbed or timing cover is removed, the truck requires relearning, and that can only be done through a bi-directional scan tool. Skippy with the RTV probably didn't do the relearn procedure is my guess. His scan tool is lost in a pile of RTV goo somewhere.   So, it's very possible the sensor has been disturbed and the truck is just running on the old learn data but not setting a code for anything. The distributor has since been replaced and so has the camshaft position sensor, so all bets are off for that thing.   In the theme of one step forward, two steps back, I returned the accumulator for the AC. The gal I've been working with at O'Really's has been great. She refunded it under manufacturer's defect and we compared it to the replacement I ordered, and sure enough, the replacement is machined very differently (and a gauge actually fits on it!).   Got it home, installed it, started vacuuming it down.... and I couldn't get good vacuum.   The high side service port, where I replaced the old GM ball valve suspecting that was a source of the previous leak....well, I've clearly exposed whatever pre-existing crack in the line where the service port is welded, and made it much worse. Blessing in disguise? Except there goes another $25, now I'm waiting for a replacement AC line.   In 10-ish days ALL the parts will be here. Rebuilt injector, new exhaust system, new cat, new high pressure AC line.   Oh, did I mention the squeaking ISN'T coming from the AC pump? The truck still squeaks when started, and there were words after I started it with the new AC pump installed. But, there was more to replacing the AC pump for just a squeak. A truck with good working AC is something of value, for the comfort alone.   I've ordered a new harmonic balancer because, 30 years is a good run for one of those. Rule it out. The squeak may be something more sinister, though. I'm worried about that ckp sensor and if it was shimmed correctly, or if the timing set was installed correctly. The squeak may be coming from UNDER the timing cover.   At this point, once I get it put back together, I'm thinking I'll take a 50 mile victory lap and then promptly put it up for sale. This truck is cursed. Betty, from beyond the grave, doesn't want anyone messing with her Blazer. Or maybe she's getting revenge for 30 years of shop visits with that thing.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...