Jump to content

engine swap


Recommended Posts

Posted

Any thought on switching the 4.8L out of my 2000 siera for a 405hp ZO6 corvette crate engine (gm part number 12562190)? I've got some bad spark knock so why not get the LS-6 engine to replace it? will the emisions all hookup and funtion properly, has anyone tried this?

Posted

I've heard of people putting a 350 windsor in a Mazda so I bet it would all work out. Plus, I believe the engines (4.8,5.3,5.7L) can use each others parts in certain cases or in all cases. Head over to www.LS1tech.com and see if you can find some more information on this.

Posted

I believe the valve train is waaaay different.

 

You would also have to change out the entire electronics package.

 

I have a friend that swapped the 6.0 liter in for a 4.8.....Those were his main gripes. It wound up costing him much more than just the cost of the new motor.

 

But (other than the money) it can be done pretty easily. He said just about everything bolted right in.

 

Just my .02

Posted
Any thought on switching the 4.8L out of my 2000 siera for a 405hp ZO6 corvette crate engine (gm part number 12562190)? I've got some bad spark knock so why not get the LS-6 engine to replace it? will the emisions all hookup and funtion properly, has anyone tried this?

 

Yes this swap will bolt right in using your truck intake and wiring. Get your PCM reprogrammed from LS1 Edit are PCMforless.com.

 

 

 

Check this link out for crate engine.

 

http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results.cfm?s...1&partnumber=C5

 

Thanks, Marc

GMPartsDirect.com

 

http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results.cfm?s...number=SS-Truck

Posted

This is what flyer had to say from the Truck forum over at LS1TECH.

 

"The F-body car intake sits to low to put on our trucks. It will hit the water neck on the pump. I don't think the water pump will fit on because of other things. I wonder if it if you had E-fans? As far as the LS6 conversion, it wouldn't apply to our engines since they are different displacements, but of course the cam and the heads will work on there.

 

I would just go with the head/cam package. Although, if the price is right, you could sell the intake and the water pump and come out on top since the kit includes all the gaskets and bolts you would need."

 

I hope this helps......

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

The long block will swap over very easy, why not just replace the long block and keep all the truck front accessories and intake.

 

I just did one of these swaps last weekend. 2002 ec 4.8L --> LQ9 6L, with 224 cam. It turned out great and everything off of the 4.8L swapped over fine.

 

The truck runs great, but you'll need pcm tuning for sure, the pcm doesn't like adjusting from a 4.8 to a 6L, lol.

 

good luck and enjoy the new engine,

 

 

allen

  • 4 years later...
Posted
The long block will swap over very easy, why not just replace the long block and keep all the truck front accessories and intake.

 

I just did one of these swaps last weekend. 2002 ec 4.8L --> LQ9 6L, with 224 cam. It turned out great and everything off of the 4.8L swapped over fine.

 

The truck runs great, but you'll need pcm tuning for sure, the pcm doesn't like adjusting from a 4.8 to a 6L, lol.

 

good luck and enjoy the new engine,

 

 

allen

 

Wow, this is an old topic..anyway... I was wondering if you could provide any input for a 4.8 to 6.0 swap? Jonesz0003 has ideas of tuning up his 4.8 or swapping to a 6.0. Here's the forum link: 2003 4.8l Silverado, More Power

Posted

This would be an easy swap! Just use the intake package from your truck and have the computer retuned. I have done a lot of work with the LS6. Definately a street friendly motor, but not the one I would choose for a truck. It has a redline which the factory set at 6500. My retuned LS6 had it's redline set for 7,000 RPM street, and 7300 for the track. The motor will live forever at those RPM's, HOWEVER...I wouldn't want to sling a gallon of fluid around in a heavy torque convertor at those speeds. This motor is a rev happy monster that has all sorts of power that you simply can't get to.

I think the better play would be going to the 6.2 (BY FAR) 378 cu in vs 346 cu in for about the same price. In vette form it makes, what 436hp?? Best of all that power is much lower in the RPM band where you use it all the time. I drive my Denali with the 6.2 and am VERY IMPRESSED by the torque. Ablip of th throttle at 70 mph and that truck is at 90 in seconds. All that with better than 16MPG.

 

The cheapest solution would be to buy a used LQ4 6.0 and install the L92 heads and intake. All a small cam and you would economically be over 500HP with gobs of torque. Or just put a larger bump stick in the L92 6.2L and have even more! decisions, decisions, decisions

Posted
The long block will swap over very easy, why not just replace the long block and keep all the truck front accessories and intake.

 

I just did one of these swaps last weekend. 2002 ec 4.8L --> LQ9 6L, with 224 cam. It turned out great and everything off of the 4.8L swapped over fine.

 

The truck runs great, but you'll need pcm tuning for sure, the pcm doesn't like adjusting from a 4.8 to a 6L, lol.

 

good luck and enjoy the new engine,

 

 

allen

 

i have a 4.8 in my truck and i want to put a 6.0 in it will it work with out having to change the wirin harnes and all that... all i should do is have the com tuned for the 6.0

Posted

4.8/5.3/6.0 injectors are...I'm pretty sure they are anyways, they probably change throughout the years tho, IE 1999 5.3 - 2003 5.3 - 2007 5.3. Cars have different injectors and fuel rails. I haven't really looked into a car intake manifold swap, I just know the fuel stuff from trucks doesn't work on car intakes, truck injectors are taller supposedly, which would get in the way of the fuel rail.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks @newdude, guess I'll keep looking.  Test driving so many trucks that have obvious things broken, I'm thinking "if they couldn't even be bothered to fix the power seat," what else is broken".   Just drove a 2021 where the power seat motor was grinding/binding and wouldn't do anything but make a terrible sound.   An owner that puts dents on the bumper, doesn't fix a seat motor, and had spotty service intervals (along with missing major services) doesn't give me the best of confidence.   Amazed at the number of people that will finance a $60k+ truck, run it into the ground, then trade with a loan balance (every single one had "loan/lien reported" on the CARFAX at the last year of registration).
    • Not true! I have been runing them since 2006 F250! suspension component that works as a sway bar, a traction bar, and a helper spring points directly to the RoadActive Suspension (RAS) kit. Works as a sway bar, a traction bar, and a helper spring.
    • Here's a starter kit:    CC Jensen, a Danish oil testing Concern gives us the following guidelines:   ISO 14/12/10 Very Clean Oil ISO 16/14/11 Clean Oil ISO 17/15/12 Lightly Contaminated ISO 19/17/14 New Oil ISO 22/20/17 Very Contaminated and not suitable for any service.   In addition CC Jensen gives a table showing how engine life is increased by cleaning up the oil. For example cleaning the oil from 19/17/14 to 13/11/8 will extend motor life by a factor of 6X.   But even cleaning it two “Life Extension Classes” will double motor life. So perhaps giving those classes would be useful:   21/19/16 20/18/15 19/17/14 18/16/13 17/15/12 16/14/11 15/13/10 14/12/9 13/11/8   *************************************   https://testoil.com/program-management/setting-iso-cleanliness-targets/   Third paragraph from the bottom will give a starting point.    Your next question should be, okay 10um at what Beta ratio and the answer is in the graph Beta 75.   Then the next question is what is your chosen filters profile? (Purolator PL series below) The red dot is Beta 75. This was the information I obtained from MANN a few years ago. So the best filters, Purolator One, AMSOIL EA, FRAM Ultra, Royal Purple, Bosch Premium should get a doubling engine life over filters like Purolator L, any service filter from any quick lube, WIX, NAPA, STP, Mobil 1, Purolator BOSS.    And as noted by CC Jensen a 2-5 micron @ Beta 200 bypass system has the capability of a six fold improvement. AMSOIL has such a system as does Donaldson.       Now having said all that testing is the touchstone. Test the oil NEW and test it with your chosen filter. Then test over milage. Do the work, get the result. But understand this in NOT absolute BECAUSE this is one factor in isolation.   Example:    A valve spring supplier can state that with cam X and a valve train of Y grams the valves will not float to 7K rpm. is that true if the builder choose a system 20 grams over limit? Common sense must be used and limits understood. 
    • This doesn't look like a GM truck. Not needed on a HD truck
    • It varies a ton around me. Some places are still at $5.00 or higher and others are way down into the $4's.   Offroad diesel was $4.02 at the one station I passed today.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...