Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Did a quick search and couldn't find anything even kind of similar to the issue I'm having.

 

I got everything put on the driver side and the castle nut just kept going and going like the damn energizer bunny. The instructions say to add a washer if the cotter pin hole is too high and after just finger tightening it, I added two washers. Then it didn't even snug up until it got to where the picture shows. It seemed like ALL of the threads had made it through the spindle so I checked the other ball joint in the kit vs the factory one and the taper is definitely thinner than the factory ball joint. The instructions for the Fox coilovers have a note that say they "MUST be used with aftermarket upper control arms" so I would really prefer to figure this out than have to put everything back to stock right now.

 

Has anyone else run into this issue? Did I get the wrong size ball joints/do they even have different size ball joints for us? Or do I just need to do the uncomfortable thing and stack a ton of washers up under the castle nut?

 

I messaged them asking about it, but it's Sunday so I'll have to wait for their response.

45051.jpeg

45038.jpeg

Posted (edited)

Did you match the aftermarket ball joint shaft spec to the spec of your OEM knuckles facilitating stamped/aluminum arms or cast arms? The knuckle is different for the two specs. If your truck came with cast arms from factory you need cast spec UCA, if they came with aluminum or stamped from factory you need aluminum or stamped spec UCA- both for reasons of the ball joint shaft hole at the knuckle.

I know in the case of the Cognito UCA I have on order I got the alum/stamped spec, BUT I'm also swapping my OEM knuckles and LCA to aluminum/stamped spec- and I anticipate I might have to swap other relative components once I get that far but I'm not sure at present. I'm not even sure I need to swap the LCA, but I am anyways. I know Cognito makes UCA for OEM cast arm replacement or alum/stamped, and it only matters at the knuckle in the case of that specific component. Perhaps you could even just swap ball joints if needed, but I'm speculating in regard to the parts you have there.

If you originally had aluminum arms could you tell me if your truck came with the X31 off road package? I think that was the determining factor that granted aluminum arms and resultantly spec'd knuckles, but I don't know.

Edited by Truckboattruck
Posted (edited)

So I did confirm (prior to ordering) that I originally had the stamped steel UCAs. No fault of Kryptonite since I didn't order directly from them, I was sent cast UCA joints. I just ordered the proper ball joints directly from them this morning but it'll be 2-3 weeks before they arrive and since I don't feel like undoing the work, the truck will just stay on jacks in the garage until the correct joints come in. Maybe I'll take the time to make sure my wheels/tires will fit. 

 

I don't believe you need to do the lowers at all. But I'm a fan of going the extra mile, so I'll like to see how it turns out. 

 

Also, I don't have the X31 package. So you may very well be right about that 🤔

Edited by not_a_denali
  • Like 1
Posted

Glad you got it figured out, and thanks for the X31 info as well. I think there is some confusion going around that the aluminum arms were part of the Z71 package- which my '14 has, but also has cast arms.

I have everything I should need for the knuckle swap except the UCAs, I don't think the aluminum LCA are made anymore however so I went with aluminum Mevotech premium TTX LCA. It should just be the UCA ball joint shaft spec that is different, but I won't be able to tell until I pull the knuckles off and compare in 6-8 weeks.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,965
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DaleB
    Newest Member
    DaleB
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,165 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • You must have that upgraded gvw package which is only available or at least was in 2025 with the diesel engine for the 3/4 ton and that gave the truck physically the larger 12.0 ring gear rear diff and the 3500 rear spring pack. There is a difference in what the diff housing looks like externally as one tell tale and also your truck should have the upper overload spring pack and the frame pads that the pack goes up against.    The pressure the tpms system kicks the alarm in on a stock setting truck, that is a good question and was just from what I recall but I doubt I made any notes on it as I knew for the rear that it was not at all what I was after regardless either. Being that you have a diesel and if running on stock tires the minimum pressure on an empty truck seems to be around 50 psi from hearing of those that have weighted the front axle but the rear axle is very similar in weight to a gas truck and again a near empty truck on the rear could go down to 35 pounds at minimum. However the weigh scale is the proper way to know for sure as a guide.    As to changing the readings on the dash from metric to the US measuring system, oh yes that is done easily but what I was attempting to explain was that I can't pick and choose items I want to have in US and those I still want in the metric system at the same time as its either all or none. For example lets say you drove into Canada and switched your dash over to metric so your speedometer read in km an hour, well then your reading kilopascals on your tpms readout and your wife looks over and says what the hell is that saying in the tpms screen and you say "darned if I know, I think its Chinese" !
    • This is partly why I decided to have switched over to Amsoil SS as a way of hopefully preventing the buildup of the sludge/carbon on the pistons and clogging of the oil control rings and the carbon that would cause the compression rings to stick in their grooves as well as stay cleaner up top of the heads in the valve train in the first place, an oil that has tested better by third party testing over typical shelf oil and also doing my best to run relatively short OCI. However in saying that I don't think there is any way to easily prove the oil I was using prior allowed for a buildup at the OCI I was doing, nor in the other direction to make claims the Amsoil is keeping everything clean either. There really isn't a window into the engine is there to know anything for certain even if oil samples were taken for example that showed still healthy oil being dropped out of the oil pan other than engine tear downs that extensive and expensive testing of oils does to actually visually see what is really going on inside the engine. I wish there was some easy method of seeing what is going on but I don't happen to be aware of that if there is.  
    • My truck is a ¾ ton but my placard also says 80 for the rear tires, I think I might have the upgraded suspension to the 3500 series maybe.   I put my air down to 60 and the light was still on, and there was no way I was putting over 60 psi in the rear empty and not towing because I knew the actual number Toyo gave me and I didn't wanna ruin the center of my tires!   And you actually can change it in the settings from metric or is and it will show kph or mph then when you go into your tire settings it will be either psi or kpa, but it would be nice to just change it directly on the tire psi page 
    • Common Sense Assembly   Your driveline is forgiving of the occasional mistake. It will even often forgive the random serious blunder. But it will not forgive a continuous bad habit.      What? Not everything needs to be a five thousand word essay.       
    • We drove about 15 minute east today to visit a friend and saw a steep increase in price in the same county. About 50 cents a gallon steepper. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...