Instrument Panel Fuse Block right not getting power.
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I only get oil changed where I can watch. Valvoline pulls through the dipstick into a see thru glass. When done they show me the dipstick. About the only way they can mess up is using the wrong oil. But that secret wouldn’t stay secret long. Honda uses TQ wrenches on everything. You can watch through a plate glass window. Discount tires does that with tires. Trust but verify. -
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By Grumpy Bear · Posted
I would not argue that with you. It would be pointless to argue against the truth and you speak the truth. My question and in fact the entire point of this thread is an exploration into the levers of wear which happens no matter how well we maintain our powertrains. Some of these levers we exert a good deal of influence over which can and do result is lower wear, longer powertrain life. Some others we are sort of stuck with. An engine is typically done when the ring to bore seal no longer is able to do the job effectively. Normally the first thing to go in a engine otherwise well maintained and adult driven is this seal. Looking into the means, methods, products and attitudes that influence the rate of wear seems a worthwhile inquiry to me. -
By silveradosid · Posted
try tapping the pump lightly and see if it starts, if it doesn't then the pump needs replaced, i think it will put the engine in limp mode if you drive it -
By Jus Cruisin · Posted
I wouldn't do any DIY sealing. I'm thinking they need to "breathe" and need venting to allow them to dry. I've never looked into them but I'd leave it as designed. -
By Tiffanyrose · Posted
Truck always things it's being stolen, engine cranks but it won't fire up and securty will flash. It actually starts flashing as soon as you open the door for the truck and they key isnt even in it yet. Sometimes it will start perfectly fine, but most of the time it will not. I've don't alot of research over time, this is for my dad's truck and it's been a problem for over 10 years but it has gotten to be alot more frequent. I've been told about the chip key and the relearn process, however the key that we have does not have a chip in it. which leads me to believe the relearn process will do nothing no matter how many times we do it. Ive read about the passkey resistor, the total bypass with the ignition wires, and about the ecm box replacement. Im wondering though since we dont have a chip key, which is the most logical part to buy? So if anyone out there can point us in a good direction I would really grateful!
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