Jump to content

6.0L no oil pressure

vasten
 Share

Recommended Posts

vasten New Member

vasten

Posted
Posted

I have a 2011 GMC 2500 with the 6.0 roughly 130-140K on it.   I  changed the oil in April and just before I did I noticed that instead of being at the usual 40 PSI at idle it would fluctuate down to 20-30 PSI and when you accelerate it would come right back ( to me a sign of just really over due for an oil change).  After the oil change it went right back to normal 40 PSI at idle.   I went to start it up couple of weeks ago I took the truck in the morning and it was fine came home parked it.  In the afternoon I went to move it out of the way and noticed the oil pressure never came up at all.  I let the truck idle down the drive way and shut it off and ordered an oil pressure sensor, put the new one in and no difference.  when I was trying to determine if I needed the screen or not I took a picture and zoomed in to see if there was a screen in there or not and it appears that the bottom of the port is dry and rusty and doesn't look as if it has seen oil in quite some time.  I started the truck with the sensor out and let it run for a few seconds and nothing no oil came out of the port and when I took the pressure sensor out bottom of it was clean as shiny the the same as if I had just taken it out of the package.

 

Last night I went back to the last thing I touched, the oil change.  thinking maybe the Fram filter was blocked by something, I put a wix on, started the truck let it run until the low oil message came on then shut it down.  As expected the oil filter was full, so I cracked the filter and put a drain pan under it and restarted the truck and instantly you could hear the oil spraying out around the filter.  I crawled under the truck and had oil on the diff, the side of the pan, the axle everywhere so it was coming out with some volume.  When I measured what had come out  and collected in the pan it was over a quart maybe a quart and a half, in under 10-20 seconds. 

 

From that I am assuming that the pump is working, the pick up tube is working,  could be bad o ring on pick up tube, (being 4wd I really don't want to drop everything to get to the oil pan to replace an o ring that may not even be the issue.  

At the point the motor sounds the same no rattling, tapping, etc.

Any suggestions of what else  to check before bringing it to a garage?  I have limited tools and am doing this in my front lawn as I don't want to drive it at this point.

 

IMG_20240416_193727897.jpg

Bleepster Enthusiast

Bleepster

Posted
Posted

i have seen videos on people replacing the sensor and some of them recommended blowing out the sensor "tube" with compressed air.  maybe yours is plugged deep down preventing oil from going up the passage to the sensor.  Just a thought.

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,840
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    appletrav
    Newest Member
    appletrav
    Joined

  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 284 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • newdude
      2 speed transfer case optional now?

      By newdude · Posted

      This is a 1/2 ton thing ONLY.  All HDs 2020-2026 have the two speed transfer case, with Autotrac as an option.     1/2 tons 2019-2026, regular 4x4s come with a single speed case (no 4LO!), and trucks with Z71 ordered, or all Trail Boss trucks come with the 2 speed case.  2 speed case is also an option on WT, and is also standard on High Country.  
    • newdude
      Different requirements for oil filters?

      By newdude · Posted

      2013 5.3 still to this day calls for the PF48 filter.  Which as a 15psi bypass pressure.     There is a TSB, 17-NA-157 that talks about the PF-63 and PF-64 filters which have a higher bypass rating of 22psi.    TSB HERE - temp.xml   "Beginning in 2012, the oil pumps began to regulate main gallery feedback instead of pump out pressure. This means that the oil pump now does not begin to regulate until pressure is built up to the main gallery. This change reduces the amount of time it takes to provide oil to the engine bearing and lifters during extreme cold start conditions.  Main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are present on the following engine families which use Spin-on oil filters: Small Gas Engine (SGE), Large Gas Engine (LGE), High Feature (HFV6) Gen2 and Small Block Gen5 gasoline engines. These engines with the main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are factory built with an ACDelco® oil filters"   It also calls out what engines use those filters.  The gen 4 small blocks were not on that list (LMG, LC9, L9H, L92, L94, L20, L96).  Gen 5 small blocks use the higher pressure filter.          That all said...   Your 7045 Napa filter is the PF63 equivalent, with 22psi bypass.  You are already using the higher bypass pressure filter.  You CAN keep using it, you don't technically have to use it though.  
    • Grumpy Bear
      Different requirements for oil filters?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Do you know WHY the filter relief setting was increased to 22 psig?    When the new system goes into the second stage the pump volume ramps up considerably. It was found that the 15 psi filter bypass setting put the filter in bypass on a warm engine when the second stage was activated. Raising the filter bypass setting forced the filter to do what it designed to do. Filter. Preventing debris from circulating during high load, high rpm operation.    So next question is how did GM find this out? VLOM/lifter failures and a deep dive by Melling Corp.    Last question. Is it required? Look at it like this; a motor may be equipped with a rev limiter. But it only works if the set point in reached. That 22 psig setting only matters if the pressure differential across the filter media exceeds 15 psig during normal warm operation. Second stage kicks in around 3000-3500 rpm.    I can't answer your question because I don't know you and how you use the truck. But I think there is enough information here to let you decide for yourself. 😉
    • Coastie05
      give me some tips to make my truck look better

      By Coastie05 · Posted

      Go back to OEM wheels. 
    • newdude
      2020 Trailboss 6.2 replacement

      By newdude · Posted

      Probably not their first rodeo, so it should go as planned most likely.  Typically the service manager or tech doing the swap will put some seat time to shake it down after they get it all put back together.  We usually put 50-100mi before we hand them back so if something happens, its not after you get it.  A coolant leaks, oil leaks, a ground left off or loose, vibration, etc.     The new engines so far have been good?  There's been a couple that have popped out there again (the replacement engine) but most have been okay.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...