Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

New to the forum and noticed I asked this on a thread that was almost a year old so thought I would start a new.

I just bought a 2024 2500hd 6.6l gas Silverado Custom.  I hear a buzzing type of noise coming from behind the dash.  Sounds like a grounding type of static that fluctuates with the engine rpm.  Does not matter if engine is hot or cold.  Loud enough to drown out engine noise while driving.  Dealer has no idea.

Anyone have this issue with your custom and if so have you got a fix?

Posted

Well, 77 views and no responses so I guess this shows that it is not  normal.  Now to figure out where it is coming from.  

Posted

I'd have said it might be the power steering pump, but that's usually only noticeable at idle and goes away under throttle. Does it sound like a vibration? Maybe some loose trim rattling around?

Posted

Thanks for the reply.  No it fluctuates with the rpms of the motor.  Can replicate it in park reving the engine.  Tried using a stethoscope on the steering pump and AC along with the altenator and all was good.  Sitting in truck I hear it best above cluster guages.  I do not have digital guages.  Dealer doesn't think it is the stepper motors behind dash.

Would a torque converter make this noise?

  • 6 months later...
Posted

Hi just saw this. I have a 2025 2500 6.6 L8T custom also, my truck makes the same noise you describe. Almost like a bad ground on a stereo through the speakers. I’ve had passengers ask if I had a turbo or supercharger. I only have 1400 miles and haven’t taken it in yet. I also have a bad vibration at around 4k rpm. Pretty annoying ! Did you get it figured out? Thanks in advance, Mike

  • 1 year later...
Posted

2026 HD2500 ZRT Gasser with same noise. Have been loyal to GM but this will be the last if they can’t fix it. Sounds like a toy drill motor in the dash at lower RPMs (<40 mph) until other noise drowns it out. Cannot hear it outside. Taking mine to dealer next month with only 700 miles on it. Let me know if anyone else has found a corrective action. Thanks.

Posted

Check the tightness of the coolant overflow bottle bolts. For many people they loosen (me included) and cause noise in the cab.
 

Once I tightened them i haven’t heard anything since. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • First off pay close attention to what Newdude pasted as he is a GM tech !.    I have a couple of questions which might cross off some questions others on this forum would be wondering about as well. So when was the engine oil changed prior to this trip, was it almost brand new oil or did it already have a fair bit of use on it before you started the trip.   Did you check the oil level on flat ground and was it at the full mark just before leaving on this trip which I gather from google map is about 700 miles or so. Why I ask and this is not the first time in history that has happened, that either a dealer or some other shop changed the oil on the vehicle and the vehicle left the shop and the owner ( you ) assumed the engine oil was full but in reality the person who changed the oil simply did not put enough oil into the engine .. it happens !. Also that a shop put the wrong viscosity oil in and an engine was not happy with that thinner viscosity and oil got past the rings at a higher rate than the proper viscosity. Not to mention if there was any leaking out of a drain plug or the filter gasket etc. 
    • You could, although in the end it really doesn't make much difference what comes out in exact terms since it comes down to putting enough back in so that there is enough volume so that something flows back out once the trans is up to temp for the check procedure. I presume your putting a pan on that has a drain plug but its probably the same pan mold/size as at least a while back no extra volume pan was made for the gas truck version due to the exhaust cross over pipe issue. All I can say as per volume I put back in and this was based on changing out the filter as some is trapped in it that does not come out until its removed because of the way its made inside and my truck had sat over night with the trans having been hot when shut down and dripping internally before I pulled the pan. I went off of what the trans shop suggested as a minimum volume he found worked which was 9 1/2 quarts and I had enough flow out of the stand pipe that I knew I was right on the money once it slowed to a dribble and never wasted hardly any oil but it would be totally fine to throw in a full 10 quarts too. I guess personally I wouldn't ruin a perfectly good pan by drilling a hole in it, not with the cost of replacement pans up here or the dorman one anyway with the drain was 500.00 when I priced one out a while back, totally stupid.    I might not have said before but this trans oil type really expands with heat and I think its been said on this forum and the trans shop said the same so I wanted to try and hit the lower temp of the range vs at the top or go shooting above it as that would allow more oil to flow out which wouldn't be ideal. 
    • Since I am going to be replacing the pan, I am just going to drill a hole in the original to drain it so I will be able to catch the fluid easier and measure how much I took out.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...