Jump to content

4L60E transmission filler tube removal

thx1138v2
 Share

Recommended Posts

thx1138v2 Enthusiast

thx1138v2

Posted
Posted

I have been trying to remove the transmission fluid filler tube on my 2007 GMC 4.3L 4L60E WT but am not having any luck. I can get a socket on the 13mm nut that attaches the tube bracket but I can't get it to loosen at all. Now I'm wondering if it is a left handed thread. I'm not sure what is going on.

 

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

richard wysong Senior Enthusiast

richard wysong

Posted
Posted

It's not left handed just super tight, put a pipe on the end of the ratchet for extra leverage. WARNING if you are using Chinese tools they may break before the bolt loosens so protect your hands from impact if they should break

thx1138v2 Enthusiast

thx1138v2

Posted
  • Author
Posted
35 minutes ago, richard wysong said:

It's not left handed just super tight, put a pipe on the end of the ratchet for extra leverage. WARNING if you are using Chinese tools they may break before the bolt loosens so protect your hands from impact if they should break

Thanks for the quick reply. I was thinking a left handed thread would be crazy in that location. I've got a 2 foot long breaker bar so I guess I'll try that.

 

I was also thinking of using my heat gun to warm it up first. Any thoughts on that?

thx1138v2 Enthusiast

thx1138v2

Posted
  • Author
Posted

BTW my 2 foot long breaker bar is a Craftsman 1/2" so I don't think I'll have any problems with that one.

richard wysong Senior Enthusiast

richard wysong

Posted
Posted (edited)

It can't hurt but probably won't generate enough heat to make a difference. Sometimes the nut won't loosen but the stud will twisting the bracket then you have to get a wrench on the stud to hold it while removing the nut. a mapp gas or acetylene torch would help but be aware of wiring and anything else flammable or meltable in the area. Why are you removing the tube?

Edited by richard wysong
thx1138v2 Enthusiast

thx1138v2

Posted
  • Author
Posted
10 hours ago, richard wysong said:

It can't hurt but probably won't generate enough heat to make a difference. Sometimes the nut won't loosen but the stud will twisting the bracket then you have to get a wrench on the stud to hold it while removing the nut. a mapp gas or acetylene torch would help but be aware of wiring and anything else flammable or meltable in the area. Why are you removing the tube?

Thanks for the advice.

 

I'm removing the tube because it broke right at the mounting bracket. Since I don't have it out yet I'm not sure what caused that but when I look at it from above I  an see the opening of the lower portion and when I attempted to put transmission fluid in it ran out on the ground.

thx1138v2 Enthusiast

thx1138v2

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I finally got it out. After taking the exhaust manifold off it was a piece of cake. So I have replaced it and put everything back together and topped off the transmission fluid. it runs OK.

 

But it's not shifting correctly now. It doesn't want to shift out of low. It will if I release the throttle. It shifts OK after that - shifting up and down. But next time I try to accelerate in first, I have to release the throttle at around 3000 to 3500 RPM to get it to shift.


I guess I damaged it by driving it when it was low on fluid. I wasn't aware of a problem until one day I was going up a fairly steep incline and it wasn't shifting out of first coming down the back side. I was on a huge overpass with no immediate exits available so I kept driving it until I got home - about 3 miles.

 

Any suggestions?

richard wysong Senior Enthusiast

richard wysong

Posted
Posted

Check for codes, You may need more than a basic code reader to access the trans codes

  • 2 weeks later...
thx1138v2 Enthusiast

thx1138v2

Posted
  • Author
Posted

After researching the 4L60E rebuild process I decided to take it to a shop. They looked at it and quoted me $3695 to do a complete rebuild. That sounds about right to me. I had a 4L60E in my '94 Sierra and it was around $3500 to do a complete rebuild back in 2000. Does the price sound OK with you guys?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Chuck FB
      Fluid Change Questions

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      There would be one way of determining the quality of the factory oil although probably more than a typical oil lab test, and that would be to draw out some oil from a new truck and send a sample to a lab that could do a more elaborate test of the oil. The issue with too little oil in the diff may not be the lack of lubrication of the diff bearings and gears themselves ( although a lack of oil volume for cooling ) but the wheel bearings because at some point the oil would be too low to properly get onto the spinning axle or fed along the axle tube. That was the claim by the local dealer from a couple of trucks in recent years that had the wheel bearings fail and they figured from lack of sufficient oil due to a severe underfilled diff and some of the bearing material made its way to the diff and it got damaged as well so the axle housings were just replaced on warranty. But your right that if the diff is over filled by whatever margin that it causes more churning of the oil than is desirable and that is no good either and can cause a pinion seal to leak. Also old oil I believe can tend to loose some of its properties like antifoaming and another good reason to change the diff oil every so often. 
    • Z45
      Fluid Change Questions

      By Z45 · Posted

      I would be surprised if the diff's were not filled (with the cheapest gear lube) at the axle factory before being shipped to GM.  If you ever watched them building trucks they install the axles and all suspension parts with the frame upside down and then turn it over before its time to install the engine.     Too much gear lube in a axle can be worse than not enough especially with a lower quality GL where is get whipped up with entrained air (foam)  weakening its ability to lubricate.        
    • MORSNO
      Oil Consumption

      By MORSNO · Posted

      This is the 6.6 gasser section of the forum, you should either delete or modify your previous post as it is misleading for anyone looking for factual information on their 6.6 gas engine.
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Well....I've done my first intake gasket. Probably wrong, but...we'll see?   Ultra black on the china walls and 1/4" up onto the sides of the intake gaskets. Permatex High Tack (couldn't find Gaskachinch) on the head side of the intake gasket. I read wrong and it says you're supposed to put it on the mating surface of the head, not the gasket. Hoping it's like a PB&J sandwich where it doesn't matter what side the PB goes on so long as there's jelly. That crap is messy/sticky and I got a dab or two on the intake port openings, tried to wipe it off. Hopefully it won't be a big deal and will only aid in sealing.   Per instructions I left the intake (top side) of the gasket dry except for a light smear of RTV around the coolant ports. Wiggling the intake in there was a bear but I had help to free me of surrounding wiring/stuff but I was basically able to set it straight down lined up with the bolt holes.   I did not think to wait until the RTV skinned over but there probably was 5-10 minutes while it sat before installing the intake.   Bolts finger tight first. Then, followed the Chilton's manual pattern to snug them to 15 lb-ft.   Waited a little over an hour, and then did the final torque in sequence again to 35 lb-ft.   Yesterday I replaced the fuel pressure regulator and got my new "nut and bolt kit" (fuel lines) installed. Damn GM used security torx on the spider, which I don't have, so I got scammed at the local HW store for an off-brand security Torx bit set.   The new driver's door mirror arrived yesterday, so, there's a chance this thing could be running and road legal tomorrow? I don't want to get my hopes up.   This will be my first time stabbing a distributor, too. Although, lucky me, someone else marked the old distributor for removal previously, I did see that. (Someone's been here before!!). Engine is still at TDC so it *should* be just a matter of transferring the mark to the new dizzy and rotating it into place.
    • KARNUT
      2027 GMC Sierra: Official Discussion

      By KARNUT · Posted

      He has his dad’s newer truck he’s put away. He has several old cars he rotates between him and his family. I’ve seen a restored square body and a SS Chevy truck he’s sometimes drives. He did raffle off a new suburban recently. As much as he is watched if he drove new stuff as a rule we’d know it. It would be fine by me. I don’t care what people prefer. I got one more new one in me. I’d rather my wife get one. I can’t get her out of the Genesis. Don’t tell anyone. I want her to get an electric truck. I want to put a generator in the back. Just because. She hasn’t bit yet.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...