Jump to content

2500 8.1 VS 6.0


Recommended Posts

Posted

Thinking of buying a new 2500 HD 4x4, either extended or crew cab, and was wondering if the 8.1 is worth the money and loss in gas milage, or if I should just go with the 6.0? The only thing I will be towing is my 19 foot bass boat so I guess I really don't need the extra power. But d**n, that big block sure is tempting.

Posted

I've had both and actually prefer the 6.0 for everything

except heavy towing. But if you want just down-to-earth

raw power get the 8.1, it has plenty and then some! :thumbs:

Posted

I have the 6.0L and have no complaints for what I do with my truck but if money wasn't an issue I would have got the 8.1L instead. From all the post I have seen, the gas mileage is just about equal between them so I would not even consider the MPG and issue. Comes down to $$$ and power if you ask me.

Posted

8.1L with 4.10 gears = stuck to your seat power

 

the difference in price is only $850, that cant be much over the life of the loan.

 

If your buying a 2500HD why would you even be considering gas milage as an option? That went out the window when you decided on the 2500HD.

 

Go with the 8.1L....you will absolutely not be disapointed. I would drive both and feel the diference for yourself. Either way you will have yourself a nice truck for sure.......Good luck

Posted

I have the 6.0 with 4.10.If they would of have had a 8.1 on the lot or coming in I would have taken that,get the 8.1.

Posted

Bottom line is.......what your going to be doing with the truck. I use it for towing a 13,000# boat...........and I have always found the 8.1 with 4:10's over the years to be the best. The larger the motor the more eaze of towing. If it's just an air hauler...........then the 6.0 is the way to go

I also have a 2002 3500 van.....with a Quigley 4X4 coversion, 8.1 with 4:10's and it tows great. Tried to order a 2004 van but the 04's only come with a 6.0 now.........I can't see it towing

Posted
Tried to order a 2004 van but the 04's only come with a 6.0 now.........I can't see it towing

I tow 12-16k on a regular basis with my 2003 3500 Express cargo van with 6.0 and 4.10's.I think alot of people assume things without knowing facts.My van tows that load just as well as my 2002 Silverado HD 8.1 with 3.73's.Granted if I was towing in the mountains our crosscountry daily I would skip the 8.1 and get a Duramax.60% better mileage,quicker and stronger truck than a 8.1 also.The guy that made the original post only needs a 6.0 to pull a bass boat that weighs what 4000 lbs.That's easy towing for 4.8 or 5.3 equipped 1500 even.

Posted
Granted if I was towing in the mountains our crosscountry daily I would skip the 8.1 and get a Duramax.60% better mileage,quicker and stronger truck than a 8.1.

 

yup, you got some more torque, i will agree. Quicker? Absolutely not, at least in its stock form anyway. Stronger? Would have to disagree there too, unless your saying its stronger than a 6.0L which would be acurate. The 6.0L has smaller frame rails and i believe a few other frame differences as well. However, the way gas prices are going the better gas milage is definately an incentive. Of course your talking about a $5200 add on for the DMAX plus a $1200 trany if you want the allison. Gas milage and a 60lb/ft of torque difference from the 8.1L dosent justify that much money for me. I drive my 8.1L/alli 4500 miles a year tops, and i go up and down some pretty large mountains pulling some heavy loads, and this thing never even kicks down a gear. Its really up to the buyer and how he wants to spend his money ultimately.

Posted

:thumbs: I would go with the 8.1. You may not need the 8.1 now but what about in the future??

 

Some years ago I needed a truck quickly so I bought a F**d F-250, 5.7, E4OD off of the lot since there were no 460s in Alaska (that should have told me something) and I did not have time to order one. Initially I was OK with the truck but once I got a bigger boat (6,000lbs) it really started to suck. Mileage was not much better (if any) than the 460 and pulling my boat up mountains became a pain in the a**.

 

When I bought my new Chevy I did not even consider the 6.0. I have a fully built big block in my Airboat and love it. (I don't drive enough miles per year or consistently tow large loads to justify a DMax - and besides diesels stink and rattle.) So I went with the 8.1, Allison, 3:78 and really, really love it. BTW the mileage of my 6700# 2500HD is BETTER than my 5.7 F**d (I still have it for runs to the dump and to haul crap in)).

 

For me it was a no brainner - look at your needs now and in the future and your pocketbook ($800 bucks spread over the life of the truck aint much). Either one is better than the competetion. :thumbs:

Posted
Granted if I was towing in the mountains our crosscountry daily I would skip the 8.1 and get a Duramax.60% better mileage,quicker and stronger truck than a 8.1.

 

yup, you got some more torque, i will agree. Quicker? Absolutely not, at least in its stock form anyway. Stronger? Would have to disagree there too, unless your saying its stronger than a 6.0L which would be acurate. The 6.0L has smaller frame rails and i believe a few other frame differences as well. However, the way gas prices are going the better gas milage is definately an incentive. Of course your talking about a $5200 add on for the DMAX plus a $1200 trany if you want the allison. Gas milage and a 60lb/ft of torque difference from the 8.1L dosent justify that much money for me. I drive my 8.1L/alli 4500 miles a year tops, and i go up and down some pretty large mountains pulling some heavy loads, and this thing never even kicks down a gear. Its really up to the buyer and how he wants to spend his money ultimately.

A duramax is faster in a drag race than a 8.1 liter.I do my drag racing at the track not on the internet.I have owned one of each and both trucks made numerous trips down the strip.The 8.1's that I have raced have been beaten by a minimum of 3 truck lenghts or 5 tenths of a second before I Juiced my Duramax.With the Juice they lose by buslenghts and about 1.5-1.8 seconds.I raced one of my racing buddies tow rig with my tow rig a Norwalk raceway.Both trucks crewcab longbed 4x4's his a 8.1,4.10 mine Dmax stock 3.73.He ran 16.40 in the 84 mph range and I went [email protected] was shocked that he got beat so easily.When I told him the mileage I get he decided to get a Dmax when his lease is up.For a 8.1 to run with a Juiced Dmax would take a 250 shot of nitrous or a supercharger with 10 pounds of boost. Only a fool pays full price for a Dmax,they can be had for $4000.00 more than a 6.0 gasser.I paid 4k for mine and have already saved almost $1600 in fuel costs in 22,000 miles.This is using the average fuel costs from the Dmax compared to the 8.1 I used to have.Anyone out there that thinks their 8.1 truck is faster than a Dmax should make a trip to a drag strip to see them run or come to Ohio and I will run you stock or Juiced.I have yet to lose to any HD gasser 6.0 or 8.1 in the 15 or so times I have ran them.I understand guys not wanting a diesel because of the noise,smell and fuel availability issues,but the it costs to much and their slow arguments are plan BS.My 8.1 truck was so shift happy on the slightest grade it drove me nuts while the Dmax loafs down the road a 2000 rpm in OD.My math says by 45,000 miles the fuel cost savings will pay for the upgrade and I'm saving money from that point forward.Also when I trade it they're worth 4-6k more than a comparable 8.1 truck.I average 25,000 miles a year and the huge savings was just to much for me to pass up.

Posted
Go for the Duramax, hook up some propane and you'll smoke the 8.1

No propane is needed.A duramax will outrun a 8.1 stock for stock.Opinions are trumped by timeslips proving this fact.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Interesting, I suspect I would have fueled up in Lee Vining as the day prior I would have filled up either in Laughlin or near there and maybe again before I entered Death Valley and once out the other side late that evening as I kept on driving into the night up near Lee Vining. Next morning I most likely fueled up in LV before heading over Tioga Pass into ( as I refer to it as "Yose .... Mite" 😁 ). And again that was 19 years ago but the price then must not have jumped out at me like the 5 bill a gallon theme of nutty cult hippy country Big Sir or head so far up their rear Aspen. I'd be curious to know where the highest prices are in the lower 48, I probably would not be far off to guess somewhere in Cali forn ie. Coldfoot and Prudhoe bay may have those prices beat but that is a whole other world up there and when prices are more normal elsewhere that is about what they can be up there I believe in no mans land. Anyway interesting that the 395 corridor is hosing people and the thing is, its tourist season and its not like there are a lot of competition options when driving up that highway from what I could see. Yup, big ole Boaterhomes and various other RV's ahead and behind me at the Yosemite entrance gate and they have to get their fuel somewhere.  
    • Those can be high, as well as the big California cities. The ones that will pop your eyes out are the 395 corridor on the Eastern side of the Sierra Nevadas. Lee Vining, $7.19 for regular and $8.89 for diesel is what the Google said right now.
    • Correct.  2019-2021 model years are serviced by a different p/n.  19420611.  Recall 2021s use 19420611.   The recall engines 2022-2024 model years are serviced with 12740076.     The difference between 19420611 and 12740076 is GM changed injector size for 2022.  The injectors are smaller on 12740076 with smaller injector bores in the cylinder heads to match the smaller injectors.  So you can't install a 19420611 in a 2022-2024, and you can't install a 12740076 in a 2019-2021.     Both engines are the replacement engine p/ns that are in the L87 recall.  So both of these are the updated engines.     Here's a version of the L87 recall with the p/ns for all the parts needed.    RCRIT-25V274-7075.pdf   Note it shows 19420611 and 12740076 with an asterisk to a footnote "Use the VIN and the GM Electronic Parts Catalog (EPC) to determine which part to order if two or more part numbers are listed for the same part, as it may vary by vehicle options."    
    • Looking for advice from this group. Took my flawless 2020 6.2 TB to an unnamed shop for routine rear brakes and oil change. Tech forgot to put oil back in after the full service and needles to say, destroyed my engine.  It’s all on their shop video so they are responsible.   I had my Chevy dealer do the analysis and they confirmed its compromised and said engine replacement. The manager said they only get GM reman engines from GM with full 3 yr warranty and the one they would put in is not same as what’s they are swapping out on 21-25 for recall.    I am looking for advice why that would be a different engine because obviously I had the good 6.2 year and replacing it has my concerns with that recall for 21-15   Also what’s the pros and cons of accepting the engine swap vs telling the shop that bricked the truck to pay up so I buy a new truck. I’m concerned about stigma resale eventually if I just decide to get rid of it after the swap or other issues showing up after the swap out.  
    • Just looked up my records.  I've never gone over 5000 miles between oil changes.  At 46K miles, I have 10 oil changes.  I hope that will help.  I also installed the disabler last year.  I've still had a few times when it didn't seem to engage (which I can tell because the start stop feature kicks in), but for the most part, I think it's working.  For some reason, GM did not include the number of cylinders running in the information screen like I had on other models.  In my Cadillac, it shows me when it's running on 4 cylinders on the fuel milage screen.  I can't find that on my '21 Denali.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...