Jump to content

Clunk in rear differential


Recommended Posts

Posted

My 2002 GMC Sierra has a clunk when it shifts. I hear it whenever I shift from park to any of the other gears, and when it is automatically shifting going down the road. It seems to be getting worse. I've checked the u-joints and they are tight. I am thinking its the rear end now. Anyone ever had a problem like this? What all needs to be replaced to fix this? A few mechanics have told me they think it is the spider gears that are worn and causing this. Any other ideas? How much would it cost?

Posted

Weclcome to the Forum :troll:

Wish it was under better circumstances :bs:

 

Does your truck have 4wd? Could be the transfer case...

Is there excessive play in the pinion gear? Put it up on jackstands and turn the drive shaft by hand both ways to check for play or clunking with the tranny in NEUTRAL..this could also check the transfer case chain...

I havent done 1 in awhile,so I wouldnt guess at a price..BUT I would suggest several estimates from reputable shops in your area....GOOD LUCK

Posted

Thanks for the info! It is 4 wheel drive. I had a mechanic look at it, and he claimed that the rear end is tight and thought it was in the transmission cause it sounds like it shifts in to reverse twice. I took it to a transmission shop and they checked it all out, hooked it up to the computer and whatnot, and they say my tranny is fine. They told me it is the rear end. I did ask them about the transfer case too. They didn't think it would be that. When driving in 2 wheel drive, they said the power is sent straight through the transfer case and its a solid connection inside there. Two shafts coupled together. They couldn't see how it could be the transfer case, but ya never know. Strange things happen. I did pull the drive line off and turned the yolk myself. I thought there was more play than normal.

Posted

Do you have the button on the dash 4 the 4wd,or the lever on the floor?

I'm guessing mostly,but if you have the button on the dash,there may by an AUTO setting...in this case there is a differential in the transfer case also that splits power to both axles.I think...But if you want to check the rear axle,the best way I know is to take the cover off and drain the fluid to take a good look at the condition of the gear set,look for metal shavings or not....But someone else on this site may have more experience than I w/a '02....By the way,did you try your dealer yet? Just curious....

Posted

It's push button 4wd. I didn't check with my dealer. I don't have any warranty on it. Bought it as is. I am about 95% sure that it is the rear end though. You can kind of tell where the sound is coming from and it comes from the very back of the truck. I will have to take the cover off the diff. and check it that way.

Posted
You can kind of tell where the sound is coming from and it comes from the very back of the truck.

The driveshaft can almost act as an amplifier for sounds....Pull the cover on the diff. and take a look..only way I know to be sure..it'l only cost you a couple qts of lube,a gasket and a little time.... :troll:

Posted

why would the spider gears be wore out on a 02? my dad had a similar problem in his 99. except his was when he turned. well finally one day the rear diff decided it had enough and spit pieces through the diff cover. left a hole in it about the size of your fist. but GM sent people down from michigan and they replaced it for free. and it would have normally cost about $3500. but he had a posi-trac w/ 3.73 gears, not sure what you're running though.

 

 

and i still wouldn't rule out the u-joints. if everything looks good in the rear end i'd replace those. dont cost very much and never hurts even if that isn't the problem

Posted
why would the spider gears be wore out on a 02? my dad had a similar problem in his 99. except his was when he turned. well finally one day the rear diff decided it had enough and spit pieces through the diff cover. left a hole in it about the size of your fist. but GM sent people down from michigan and they replaced it for free. and it would have normally cost about $3500. but he had a posi-trac w/ 3.73 gears, not sure what you're running though.

 

 

and i still wouldn't rule out the u-joints. if everything looks good in the rear end i'd replace those. dont cost very much and never hurts even if that isn't the problem

That just does not happen for no reason. Somebody had to really be extremely hard on that truck and is not coming clean.

Posted

I took the driveline off and checked the u-joints so i could get a good feel for the joints. They both moved very smoothly. I'm running 3.73 gears. It isn't posi trac though. Have any idea what it would cost to replace the carrier, spider gears, and pinion shaft. Not including labor. My truck has 73k on it already, but it still seems odd to have rear diff. problems already. The guy that had it before me must have ran it pretty hard and spun the tires off of it.

Posted

well snoman, normally i would have agreed with you, but when GM sent thier technicians down they ruled that it was a defect in parts. they said there just wasn't really a possible way that driving the truck, no matter how rough, could do that. that's why they replaced it for free, and his truck had 45,000 miles on it.

 

and sierra, if you want a good guestimate i'd call the local chevy dealership, then that's going to be the extreme right there. if it were me, and i ruled that it was in fact the rear end, i'd get a whole axle out of a salvage yard and just replace it at home. then you dont have to worry about the spacing, etc. you just drop the old one and put the new one up. and a replacement rear axle will run you about $750 around here for a newer body style (99+). but that's a ball park figure :troll:

Posted

I have considered changing the whole rear axle. I want to make sure what exactly is wrong in the rear end before doing that though. If the ring and pinion are ok, I'll probably just repair the rest of it. I've been told i could probably replace the spider gears, carrier, pinion shaft, seals, and bearing for around 400 dollars. Not sure how accurate this quote is, but the guy that said it has done this sort of work for 35 years. He also said that if the ring and pinion gears are messed up as well, it would be another 400 bucks or so.

Posted

Have a similar problem with my 02 Sierra 4.8 w/ 3.73 rear. Dealer has said that it is the slip yolk at the rear differential. There is a replacement nickel yolk but it is pricey and is not a warrantee fix. They also said there is no harm in driving it that way, so I am. BTW you hear it when you first hit the gas after shifting from park and any time you accelerate from a stop. Sounds just like play in the rear gears.

Posted

Is yours getting any worse? Mine has seemed to get a little worse as time goes on. I hear it when shifting from park to any of the gears, when it automatically shifts up going down the road, or ya sometimes when i just hit the throttle from a stop. Mine sounds like it shifts twice when i put it in reverse. Its not, but makes two noises like it is. How much is that nickel yolk replacement? What is the difference between the stock and this one?

 

Do you or anyone else on here know anything about those Eaton LTD slip differentials? I see one advertised in a magazine for 367 dollars. Just wondering if you have to change the front differential or anything else to make this work.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,840
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    appletrav
    Newest Member
    appletrav
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 383 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This is a 1/2 ton thing ONLY.  All HDs 2020-2026 have the two speed transfer case, with Autotrac as an option.     1/2 tons 2019-2026, regular 4x4s come with a single speed case (no 4LO!), and trucks with Z71 ordered, or all Trail Boss trucks come with the 2 speed case.  2 speed case is also an option on WT, and is also standard on High Country.  
    • 2013 5.3 still to this day calls for the PF48 filter.  Which as a 15psi bypass pressure.     There is a TSB, 17-NA-157 that talks about the PF-63 and PF-64 filters which have a higher bypass rating of 22psi.    TSB HERE - temp.xml   "Beginning in 2012, the oil pumps began to regulate main gallery feedback instead of pump out pressure. This means that the oil pump now does not begin to regulate until pressure is built up to the main gallery. This change reduces the amount of time it takes to provide oil to the engine bearing and lifters during extreme cold start conditions.  Main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are present on the following engine families which use Spin-on oil filters: Small Gas Engine (SGE), Large Gas Engine (LGE), High Feature (HFV6) Gen2 and Small Block Gen5 gasoline engines. These engines with the main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are factory built with an ACDelco® oil filters"   It also calls out what engines use those filters.  The gen 4 small blocks were not on that list (LMG, LC9, L9H, L92, L94, L20, L96).  Gen 5 small blocks use the higher pressure filter.          That all said...   Your 7045 Napa filter is the PF63 equivalent, with 22psi bypass.  You are already using the higher bypass pressure filter.  You CAN keep using it, you don't technically have to use it though.  
    • Do you know WHY the filter relief setting was increased to 22 psig?    When the new system goes into the second stage the pump volume ramps up considerably. It was found that the 15 psi filter bypass setting put the filter in bypass on a warm engine when the second stage was activated. Raising the filter bypass setting forced the filter to do what it designed to do. Filter. Preventing debris from circulating during high load, high rpm operation.    So next question is how did GM find this out? VLOM/lifter failures and a deep dive by Melling Corp.    Last question. Is it required? Look at it like this; a motor may be equipped with a rev limiter. But it only works if the set point in reached. That 22 psig setting only matters if the pressure differential across the filter media exceeds 15 psig during normal warm operation. Second stage kicks in around 3000-3500 rpm.    I can't answer your question because I don't know you and how you use the truck. But I think there is enough information here to let you decide for yourself. 😉
    • Probably not their first rodeo, so it should go as planned most likely.  Typically the service manager or tech doing the swap will put some seat time to shake it down after they get it all put back together.  We usually put 50-100mi before we hand them back so if something happens, its not after you get it.  A coolant leaks, oil leaks, a ground left off or loose, vibration, etc.     The new engines so far have been good?  There's been a couple that have popped out there again (the replacement engine) but most have been okay.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...