Just bought a 98 blazer with higher miles

[nd_98_blazer]

I am looking for some suggestions on things to do on my blazer.  110,000 miles and the only real maintenance has been a new serpentine belt, and the regular maintenance.

 

I have already replaced the shocks, spark plugs and wires, fuel filter and air filter.  Plan on replacing rotors and pads all the way around.

 

What else do you suggest doing?  Lube? Replaceing?  Inspecting?  Known trouble spots?  Sounds to listen for?

 

Thanks for the suggestions!

 

Kody

[bowtie_pasta]

If you are serious about doing some basic preventative maintenance, pick up a Haynes or Chilton guide and go through the tune up chapter(s).  Change everything you can do yourself that's past the recommended interval.

[bowtie_pasta]

Hey, welcome to the forum too.

 

I'm a Blazer owner as well.  Got an 84' and a 97' both 4x4.     :sideways:

[nd_98_blazer]

Thank you!

 

Does the 4.3l vortec in my 98 blazer 4 door have a timing belt or chain?  What is the recommended interval on those?

 

Thanks

Kody

[bowtie_pasta]

I'll check the book when I get a chance.  I don't know.

[D-Max]

From what my dealer told me I have a 97 S10 with the 4.3 in it their is a chain. They don't put belts in the 4.3. This is according to the dealer I go to.

[nd_98_blazer]

Do the chains ever need to be replaced or tightened?

[Colorado Kid]

Nah!  Don't worry about the timing chain.

 

I'd replace the coolant, you're right on schedule for the 5 years/100,000 miles interval.  (Assuming it uses the red stuff).

 

Watch for coolant consumption, also known as an intake manifold gasket leak.  It's not too bad a job if you catch it while it's just a drinking problem, but if you ignore it it'll take our your whole engine.

 

Consider a power flush of the automatic transmission, depending on how good the fluid looks on the stick.  If it's still bright red and smells oily leave it in.  If its at all brown or smell anyting like burned coffee then change it out.

 

Sounds to me like you're going to have it in pretty good shape.  I haven't done much more than you've planned on my old '91, except that it decided on Friday that it would like to have a new starter unless I wanted to spend my life finding suficiently steep parking areas so I could bump start it.  It wasn't a bad job but I was startled to discover that the new (rebuilt actually) starter cost over $100.  At least it came with a lifetime warranty...of course if it's even half as good as the original (which lasted 179,500 miles) I probably won't be needing to replace it!

[mcali17]

I had a '96 Jimmy. I noticed that in your post you basically did, or were planning on doing a tune up, you should also replace the Cap, Rotor and PCV valve. I agree with Colorado Kid, don't touch the timing chain, it defenitely has a chain, but have the radiator and tranny flushed. Watch out for oil puddles. I know my '96 had a rear main seal issue, GM paid to change it, and I think they corrected the problem on later vehicles. I also had premature upper ball joint wear, again GM paid for it and I had a leaky fuel injector. This resulted in the oil thinning out and one of the lifters hanging up, sounds like ticking noise. I ended up having to change all of the injectors, because I couldn't figure out which one was leaking and the gaskets. But the truck continued to run perfect after that. I sold it with 93,000 miles on it. Good luck. I have friends with Jimmy's and Blazers with over 200K miles on them and they are still running strong. I hope GM keeps this engine in something.

[tblazer503]

 

One of the main things that I would check is the grease nipples on the joints for the drivelines.  I have a 2002 Trailblazer w/ 9k on it, and plan to check for them in a week, or whenever I have time(whichever comes later) My buddy has a 97 blazer with 130k and he tops them every 6 mos with the grease gun.  Cant hurt, anyway...

[mnstrmdnss]

how 'bout a fuel system cleaning? you can change plugs, cap and rotor all day long, but itll still run rough and consume more fuel and run hotter if the valves and intake plenum around the injectors are caked with carbon deposits. i would really recommend a fuel system cleaner that cleans the injectors by running the vehicle from the cleaner bottle, or if you have a pepboys near you, its called procleen(NOT the run-rite garbage), it seriously helps big time, cause i jsut did it to my 2.2l sonoma with 48,000 miles, and it made a huge difference in how smooth it idles, but i just did it today, so cant comment on fuel economy yet. i think it should only run about 80 bucks or so, but really really worth the investment.

[bowtie_pasta]

The the 'procleen' is something you can purchase at Pepboys and do yourself?  Or is it a service you pay for and have them perform?

[mnstrmdnss]

hey, im back. the procleen is a service through pepboys, you cant just buy the bottle cause there is a special fuel pressure guage that connects to your fuel rail(more that likely the schrader valve). oh, and since i had the procleen system done, im noticeing a good increasement in hp, too! my little 4 banger has woken up and runs awsome!

[Beaux Duke]

I just bought a 93 S-10 with 129,000 miles.  Here's what I did to get it up to snuff.  You've already done a lot of what I'm going to list.

 

Changed rear differential fluid.

Changed Trans fluid.

Changed oil and filter

Changed both fuel filters (tank & line)

Changed fuel pump

Changed water pump (not many last over 100K)

Changed plugs, cap and rotor

Changed heater core  (Didn't want to buy carpet)

Changed all the rubber hoses and the belt

Changed shocks

Changed air filter

Changed all the rubber brakes lines

Disassembled the throttle body and cleaned all the parts

 

The brakes are good so I left them alone but when they need replacing I'll repack the bearings and replace the seals and wheel cylinders.

 

Yeah, I went over board but now I know exactly what I have.

[bowtie_pasta]

Hey Beaux Duke what's involved in that rear differential fluid change?

 

Thx.