Jump to content

Helix Throttle body spacer

nhproxr

Recommended Posts

nhproxr Enthusiast

nhproxr

Posted
Posted

Just wondering if anyone has tried one of these and if they work. Seems as though it may considering there is only air going through throttle body so it doen nothing for fuel atomization.

masomatic Enthusiast

masomatic

Posted
Posted

When I was doing research on different mods, I called GMS and asked them about their MAF sensor and compatability with other products. The tech I spoke with made a suggestion not to use a helical type TB Spacer because the vortex of the air can interfer with the MAF readings. Essentially, the vortex does not stay at the TB spacer. It can travel back through the tube. Now I do not know if was a biased opinion, but it is understandable that it can happen.

airdeano Enthusiast

airdeano

Posted
Posted

from my experience the TBS with or without a pattern in the bore will not affect

the MAF, because of a votex disturbance at the MAF level.

reasoning is:

as air passes the throttle body, the velocity into the intake, past the throttle blade

the air is straight.. straight as an arrow. as the air enters the TBS, the tumble, or

vortex, or swirl happens.

so this MAF disturbance is possibly caused by something else...

airdeano

nhproxr Enthusiast

nhproxr

Posted
  • Author
Posted

so airdeano, are you saying the thing may actually work, or just that it won't screw up the MAF sensor? I already have this thing should I just throw it in and see what it does, many have said it doesn't work. How about some real testimony does it work or not??? :jester:

snoman Senior Enthusiast

snoman

Posted
Posted
When I was doing research on different mods, I called GMS and asked them about their MAF sensor and compatability with other products. The tech I spoke with made a suggestion not to use a helical type TB Spacer because the vortex of the air can interfer with the MAF readings. Essentially, the vortex does not stay at the TB spacer. It can travel back through the tube. Now I do not know if was a biased opinion, but it is understandable that it can happen.

Well the whole purpose of the "vortex" is to better mix the fuel and vaporize in better in the air. I would question it effecting the MAP or MAF though because things a pretty turbulant in there to begin with. .

airdeano Enthusiast

airdeano

Posted
Posted

actually snoman, the GM "VORTEC" was designed in better flow characteristics

for cylinder filling. accomplished by offsetting the intake valve centerline to the

intake port (.136"). also a higher floor and raising the intake port angle.

this promotion increased the flow rate by: (info from a magazine article)

8% on a 1.84" intake valve over a non-vortec similar port volume

12% on a 1.94" intake valve over a non-vortec similar port volume

6% on a 2.00" intake valve over the 1.94" valve non-vortec head

8% on a 2.02" intake valve over the 1.94" valve non-vortec head

with port injection the higher fuel pressure is the atomazation. on TBI the extra

turbulance yes did increase the atomazation.

its always a quest for more air into the combustion chamber.....

airdeano

snoman Senior Enthusiast

snoman

Posted
Posted
actually snoman, the GM "VORTEC" was designed in better flow characteristics

for cylinder filling. accomplished by offsetting the intake valve centerline to the

intake port (.136"). also a higher floor and raising the intake port angle.

this promotion increased the flow rate by: (info from a magazine article)

8% on a 1.84" intake valve over a non-vortec similar port volume

12% on a 1.94" intake valve over a non-vortec similar port volume

6% on a 2.00" intake valve over the 1.94" valve non-vortec head

8% on a 2.02" intake valve over the 1.94" valve non-vortec head

with port injection the higher fuel pressure is the atomazation. on TBI the extra

turbulance yes did increase the atomazation.

its always a quest for more air into the combustion chamber.....

airdeano

No kidding huh? I know that it a new head design and how it is designed but we were talking about a helix space upstream of it on manifold and its effect, not head design here.

airdeano Enthusiast

airdeano

Posted
Posted

oh i saw vortec.. not vortex.... my bad

but when we did TBS the "vortex" was only for GM TBI. the MPFI spacers were

benfitting from the extra air flow...

airdeano

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,842
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    CaptainDad
    Newest Member
    CaptainDad
    Joined

  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 585 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • asilverblazer
      Slate Electric Truck

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • newdude
      Help purchasing a touch screen digitizer

      By newdude · Posted

      I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • asilverblazer
      give me some tips to make my truck look better

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • fondupot
      Exhaust heat while towing!

      By fondupot · Posted

      You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...