'98 K-1500 doesn't stop worth a darn...........

zr sled head · December 29, 2004

I've got a '98 K-1500 X cab which like all the rest of em out there has border line pathetic brakes.

I've tried a set of Raybestos Brute Force slotted rotors with their SSD pads, saw gave a fair bit more front braking power but couldnt' stand the "going over train tracks" feel of the slotted rotors and never ending squeel / brake dust from the pads. I've gone back to premium standard rotors with carbon pads which is perfectly smooth but not nearly as agressive.

I can live with the front stopping power but nothing I've done has helped with the rear brakes, I'm currently running a set of Raybestos SSD rear shoes, they feel better but only if I adjust the brakes on a weekly basis..............does anyone have any suggestions for increasing the rear brakes? Any mods to the prop valve possible? I've also heard of some running a smaller rear wheel cyl from an older truck with some success but no idea of what cyl from what truck. Of course a rear disc conversion would be the ultimate answer but the budget just plain will not allow.

Any and all help / ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks

Rick

kewlgye · December 29, 2004

I wont be much help to you sled head, but I just wanted to tell you that I feel your pain. I've got a 98 Z71 and it's got the same brake problem. I did have a little air in my ABS module, once I got rid of that (you can't get rid of it just by bleeding), my brakes were 80% back to normal. I did new calipers, rotors, carbon metalic pads, front brake lines, and a master cylinder before I figured out there was air in that module. Normally you have to take it to the dealer so they can computer bleed the module, but I just took the truck on a back road and put on side on the road and the other side on dirt, took it up to 30mph and slammed on the brakes. That engaged the ABS and pushed the air out of the module. I still don't have the brakes I want, but I'm happier now with them than I was before.

zr sled head · December 29, 2004

I only wish it was an air issue..........just a crummy design is what I'm up against.

Thankyou for your thoughts

Rick

2004GMC1500CC · December 29, 2004

I only wish it was an air issue..........just a crummy design is what I'm up against.

Thankyou for your thoughts

Rick

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

How about replacing your brake lines and running fresh fluid? That can make a pretty big difference.

number9 · December 29, 2004

I totally feel your pain. My 99 Z71 has always had junk brakes. I have spent over $2000 and 5 weeks of work on these brakes and hardly any change.

Praise Dyno Stage II (slotted rotors/drums/pads/shoes/Wheel Cylinders)

Russell SS lines

ATE Super Blue DOT4

NAPA reman calipers

NAPA reman Master Cylinder

GM reman ABS valve module

GM new ABS combo valve

Motive Power Bleeder (American Kit)

2 dealer ABS bleeds

Brakes stop better now, but pedal still goes to floor.

Now considering trading truck off for a 01-02 HD2500

mcreyaufmiller · December 29, 2004

Try replacing the fluid and brake lines. The fluid needs to be replaced every 3-4 years. Once I did this on my '98 C1500, the brakes firmed up nicely. I just put inexpensive calipers and rotors on it from the local Advance Auto store. As for the rear, when you backup and apply the brakes, they automatically adjust themselves (if they are Drums) IF you do the disc conversion, you will have more stopping power, but you should leave the max power to the front of the truck, this is 70-90% of your stopping power.

Raymond Lowe · January 1, 2005

I have no complaints about the braking and my K1500 Ext Cab (with cap) weighs 5100lbs with me in it. I do have a 5-speed which helps extend brake life somewhat. The truck currently has 210,000km on it. The rear brakes are original and the fronts have 110,000km on the 2nd set. It looks like these have about 40-50,000km of life left cause they're still pretty thick. And almost no brake dust on the mags to speak of! I do live in a city and the highways are very mountainous here in B.C.

The secret? I use OEM brake pads and rotors. And not the cheaper AC Delco aftermarket versions dealers also carry. GM has improved their pad composition in search of better performance over the years and sticking with OEM ensures that you get the latest improvements. So before you drop 2 grand on a set of Brembo's, try the dealer.

Hotwire · January 1, 2005

Hey all,

Even though I am new to this forum I have some decent background w/ mechanics.

One thing you can try doing is going back to stock rotors, slotted and drilled are really over kill unless you are standing on the pedal everytime you drive it.

Go to napa, get a set of ceramix pads, get your rotors turned, then take some 100-200 grit sand paper and sand both faces of the rotor in straight lines so they would be tangent to the center of the hub. After that hose them down w/ brake cleaner, install everything and go easy on them for 500 miles to break them in / heat treat them.

I've found they're the best pads/shoes for stopping power and brake dust.

How are you adjusting the rear brakes?

I usually find a dead parking lot or side road, throw it in reverse, get up to about 20 mph, then slam and let up, slam and let up, till the truck comes to a stop, do this about 3 times, put it in drive and test the brakes, you should have sufficiently adjusted the rear shoes to make a noticeable change in your stopping. I would do this when I noticed the rear jumping up when I was coming to a stop or right before I hitched up to pull a trailer, makes a big difference.

Good luck.

Raymond Lowe · January 2, 2005

How are you adjusting the rear brakes?

I usually find a dead parking lot or side road, throw it in reverse, get up to about 20 mph, then slam and let up, slam and let up, till the truck comes to a stop, do this about 3 times, put it in drive and test the brakes, you should have sufficiently adjusted the rear shoes to make a noticeable change in your stopping. I would do this when I noticed the rear jumping up when I was coming to a stop or right before I hitched up to pull a trailer, makes a big difference.

Good luck.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

That method was required on cars back in the 60's. GM trucks with rear drums use the parking brake to move the star-wheel out. Use the parking brake all the time and you will never have a problem with adjustment. A lot of people with automatic transmissions get in the habit of never using the parking brake which leads to problems.

Here's a tip. Open both doors when it's relatively quiet (ie; no traffic/construction noise). Pull and hold the parking brake release lever. Push the parking brake on hard and then release it a number of times. Listen for the clicks - when you can no longer hear them, the rear brakes are adjusted up. Over time, they may seize. Pop off the drum, remove the adjusters and use never-seize on the threads. You probably only have to do this a few times in the life of the vehicle.

zr sled head · January 2, 2005

It's been my experience with late model GM trucks that no matter the method used they require you taking the drums off and manually adjusting them. When freshly adjusted the brakes are much improved but only for a week or two. I do used the park brake each and every time I park.

Does anyone know of the smaller cyl for the rear that I understand some have used to improve rear shoe activation?

Any idea of how to mod the prop valve to increase the rear brakes?

Thanks for your suggestions

Rick