changing front brake pads?

quackmaster · January 5, 2005

I've done some searching on here but would like a little more input. I'm no motor head, but I change my own shocks, oil, diff. fluid, and smaller things like this, so I feel comfortable doing the brakes.

My questions are:

Where is the bleed screw, and does it need to be opened when the calipers are spread?

Does the top need to be off the resevoir under the hood?

Do I need another person pump the pedal after the new pads are on to pump out the air?

How do I know when all the air is out?

Do I need to add any additional fluid?

What is a torx socket #52 and do I need it?

Steves95Sierra · January 5, 2005

Hey QuackMaster - Pads are a piece-o-cake...

"Where is the bleed screw, and does it need to be opened when the calipers are spread?"

Don't open the bleed nibs or disconnect any brake lines - just take off the top of the brake fluid resevoir. Try to draw off some of the fluid if the resevoir is full. As you press the caliper pistons back into the brake housing (a big c-clap works great), fluid will be forced back into the resevoir.

"Does the top need to be off the resevoir under the hood?"

Yep. (see above)

"Do I need another person pump the pedal after the new pads are on to pump out the air?"

If you don't open the bleed nibs or disconnect any brake lines, you won't have any air in your brakes.

"How do I know when all the air is out?"

Bleeding your brakes is another issue. If its needed and you've never done it before, you'd be better off to take the truck to your favorite mech.

"Do I need to add any additional fluid?"

Most likely.., yes. Have some 3DOT on hand and check the level when done.

"What is a torx socket #52 and do I need it?"

A #52 torx socket is a star-shaped socket for removing those weird looking bolts holding your truck together. They're cheap and can be found at most auto parts store or general tool shack.

Hope this helps - Have fun...

quackmaster · January 5, 2005

Thanks for the info.

How does one know when the brakes actually need to be bled?

Steves95Sierra · January 5, 2005

They'll feel mushy - unresponsive...

GM-Tech · January 5, 2005

What is a torx socket #52 and do I need it?

You'll actually need a T55 Torx bit.

Bish · January 6, 2005

All good advice with one exception I you have antilock brakes.

If you have ABS, NEVER push the caliper pistons back in without cracking the bleeder. If your fluid is highly contaminated and you push it back into the abs unit, it can cause damage and those things are not cheap. The valves have really small holes and can clog easily.

Nothing to worry about if not abs equiped but be careful if it is.

cit1991 · January 6, 2005

I've done some searching on here but would like a little more input. I'm no motor head, but I change my own shocks, oil, diff. fluid, and smaller things like this, so I feel comfortable doing the brakes.

My questions are:

Where is the bleed screw, and does it need to be opened when the calipers are spread?

Does the top need to be off the resevoir under the hood?

Do I need another person pump the pedal after the new pads are on to pump out the air?

How do I know when all the air is out?

Do I need to add any additional fluid?

What is a torx socket #52 and do I need it?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I always open the bleeder when I push back the piston(s). Otherwise you push all the dirty fluid back through the lines, proportioning valve (if there is one), ABS unit, and into the MC and reservoir. There is alot of fluid in the pistons compared to the inventory in the lines. If there's an air bubble in the caliper cylinder, it'll get pushed way up there too.

Actually I remove the bleeder completely and allow the cylinders to drain, to get all the crud out, since even a flush usually doesn't flush both chambers. Yes I'm anal, but these brakes are spongy enough without wet fluid in the calipers.

The bleeder is the little nut near the brakeline attachment, it has a nipple with a rubber cap on it (hopefully).

I always do a good rebleed of the system when I'm done. It's trivial with a power bleeder, just open the bleeder and wait. On these trucks, I can do it without removing the wheel, just crawl under there, and you have good access to the bleeders. A power bleeder is about a must when doing a brake job. It makes bleeding easy and almost idiotproof. It's basically a mini-pesticide sprayer, but rather than a spray bar, it has a master cylinder attachment cap. Normally I use 1 qt of new fluid per wheel bled. I try to do it once per year, but definitely once per 2 years. The fluid gets old, and the brakes feel better after I do it.

If you push the fluid back into the MC, then, yes the cap should be off.

Using a power bleeder, the air is out when the bubbles no longer can be seen coming out the clear tube attached to the bleeder nipple.

ATE makes a good DOT4 fluid with and without blue dye. It makes it easy to see when the new fluid arrives at the caliper, without having to judge the "yellowness". Just swap blue or clear each time you replace the fluid. An ABS unit is too expensive to risk running old or dirty fluid, which is corrosive when wet.

Also, there is mild threadlock on the caliper bolts, which I always replace. Can't be too careful.

Bish · January 6, 2005

I'll second the powerbleeder. I recently replaced one of the handheld vacuum pumps with a power bleeder and WOW. I recently did a 4 brake job and calipers and SS brake lines and cit1991 has it right. Just crack the bleeder and wait till it runs clean and bubble-free. No need to keep toping off the res, just walk around and do all 4 wheels. Hell, I made 3 trips around and never had to add fluid. You could seriously bleed your brakes in under 15 minutes!!!!

chevyracer · January 6, 2005

I'll second the powerbleeder. I recently replaced one of the handheld vacuum pumps with a power bleeder and WOW. I recently did a 4 brake job and calipers and SS brake lines and cit1991 has it right. Just crack the bleeder and wait till it runs clean and bubble-free. No need to keep toping off the res, just walk around and do all 4 wheels. Hell, I made 3 trips around and never had to add fluid. You could seriously bleed your brakes in under 15 minutes!!!!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Where can y afind a good deal on a power bleeder???

ness5575 · January 6, 2005

What is a torx socket #52 and do I need it?

You'll actually need a T55 Torx bit.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

what do you need this for? is this only for the front pads?

i didnt use a torx bit when i changed my rear pads...

quackmaster · January 6, 2005

When I was picking my truck up yesterday at the dealership, I was asking the service tech about doing the brakes. He stated I didn't have to crack the bleed valve since I was taking the resevoir lid off. This seems to be different from what some of you all are saying, am I setting myself up for problems?

Oh yeah, just out of curiosity I stopped by Firestone to get a quote. $340 and they always "repack the bearings" I told him I didn't want the bearings repacked. He said they do it on all those vehicles. I'm sure he already knew they were sealed bearings but they probably charge everyone for this if they don't know any better. I went across the street to sears and they said the same thing. Both places were aware of what vehicle I was driving. Somebody could probably round up enough folks that paid for this and have a class action lawsuit if they wanted to.

cit1991 · January 6, 2005

Where can y afind a good deal on a power bleeder???

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I bought mine at Bavarian Autosport, then adapted the reservoir cap for the Chevy reservoir. You should be able to find them at a good auto parts store, or search online.