In stalling a 4 channel amp

[DeezNutz]

[email protected]

 

 

My Baby Is a 2000 Silverado extra-cab (4dr) Z-71, 5.3L

 

I'm going to install 2 Kenwood KFC-W2509 10" subs pushed by a PowerAcoustik HMR560-4 channel amp.

 

COMMON FEATURES of Hammer Line Amps.

Full Mosfet Power Supply

PWM Circuitry

Full Selectable Crossover HI/FULL/LOW

Variable Subwoofer Control

Fixed High Pass @ 120 Hz.

Three Way Protection Circuit

High/Low Level Inputs With Floating Ground

4 Guage Power/Ground Connection(Large Models)

 

Detailed Info of My Hammer Line HMR560-4;

Channel : 4

Cross Over :Yes

Var/Sub 30-120Hz. Yes , Twin Yes

Var/High 125-2KHz. No

40Hz. Bass Boost : Yes

Stable to:(Stereo) 2 Ohms

Mono: 4 Ohms

4 Ohm Rms : 65

2 Ohm Rms : 80

Mono Rms : 160

Max Power Bridged : 280Wx2

Tri Mode Ohms (L,C,R) 4/8/4

Frequency Response : 20 Hz-30 Khz

THD% 0.04

S/N Ratio: (dB) : 95

Dimensions (LxHxW) 13"x2.3"x10"

 

NOW, I'M NO PRO-TECH, but i've done my fare share of installations.

 

I think for the nest sound is to go for the 2 channel bridged "Hook-up" so I can push as much Constant juice to my subs in 4ohm.

 

But there are questions:

 

What do i do with the Fixed Highpass plug? is that used instead of the LOC (Line Output converter)?

 

If I do have to use the LOC, Where should I install/splice it into?

 

Dual voice coil on the the subs means a "Series" type not a "Parrallel" type if set up withthe subs. does that sound right?

 

or maybe i have this all wrong. What do you recomend.

 

Just so you know, if you haven't figured it out. I AM A PERFECTIONIST!

So please help with your best advice.

 

 

[masterp2]

Unfamiliar with the subs, but the amp might be a little light, but worth a try, but can't find any information on it anywhere.

 

I am assuming you are going for stereo subs, the only real option with a 4-ch amp. What are specs of the subs?

 

The LOC should interface with the wires that run off the HU, which can be accessed in the console if you have an amp in there.

[DeezNutz]

Here is the Sub info:

 

 

 

 

Overlapping ribs on cone surface for improved rigidity and

Dampened resonance

 

Urethane foam surround

 

Extended pole piece and bumped back plate for increased cone

excursion

 

Power range 35-350 watts RMS (Isn't this a great spread? lol, I think i gotTakin)

 

Peak power 700 watts

 

Frequency range 28-800 Hz

 

Sensitivity 91 dB

 

Top mount depth: 4-9/16"

 

Sealed box volume 0.8 cubic feet

 

Ported box volume 1.0 cubic feet

 

Dual Voice Coil

 

 

Where Do you suggest Getting a Quality LOC? I found many differant brands.

 

And Should I just brisge the amp to 2 chanel at 4ohm?

[masterp2]

DVC, but what is the impedance? you have to know how you can wire them for mono operation, but you need to know what the nominal impedance is.

[DeezNutz]

I've changed my mind, I just bought 2 Audiobahn's.

 

Here is there info:

 

AW1051T

10” NATURAL SOUND WOOFER

45 oz. Strontium Magnet

Power Handling: 300 watts RMS

Frequency Response: 28Hz - 1kHz

Efficiency: 91 dB

PHAT Foam Surround

Non-Pressed, Non-Transfer Paper Cone

KM3’ Coated for Virtually No Cone Distortion

2” 4-Layer ASV Voice Coil

Dual 4 Ohm

2 or 8 Ohm Operation

 

I hope these will sound good

[masterp2]

OK, so you will have a 4 ohm load if running mono, 2 0hm if running stereo. And according to you the amp will deliver 80 rms into 2 ohm. This is a mismatch, you need closer to 300 rms into 2 ohms, a 2 ohm stable amp (stereo subs), or 300 rms into 4 ohm (mono configuration).

 

I am an audiobahn fan myself, but looks like you are shortchanging them in power, especially in a sealed app.. If you are looking for good performance, add juice.

[DeezNutz]

OK, so you will have a 4 ohm load if running mono, 2 0hm if running stereo.  And according to you the amp will deliver 80 rms into 2 ohm.  This is a mismatch, you need closer to 300 rms into 2 ohms, a 2 ohm stable amp (stereo subs), or 300 rms into 4 ohm (mono configuration). 

 

I am an audiobahn fan myself, but looks like you are shortchanging them in power, especially in a sealed app..  If you are looking for good performance, add juice.

 

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could i add a 400 watt mono amp?

[masterp2]

That would probably be ideal, especially if 2 ohm stable. Make sure to use 4 gauge cable (or bigger) to power it.

 

On a side note, I just finished testing a dual PR wedge design that reaches to 20 HZ. Tough to get a sealed box to that in our cabs.

 

I really like this design, since it has very flat response, but it is tuned to 24 HZ with the added weight on the PR's, I think I'll pull the weights, to tune closer to 30 HZ.

 

Imagine a single 10" driver producing 126dB +/- 4 dB from 26 to 90 HZ.

 

Michael

[Halen5150]

That would probably be ideal, especially if 2 ohm stable.

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He said he bought two dvc 4-ohm subs. He needs an amp that can handle a 1-ohm mono load.

[masterp2]

That would probably be ideal, especially if 2 ohm stable.

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He said he bought two dvc 4-ohm subs. He needs an amp that can handle a 1-ohm mono load.

 

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Each VC is 4 Ohm. Series the VC's in each driver, 8 Ohm per driver. Parallel wire the drivers. (2) 8 Ohm drivers in parallel presents 4 Ohm.

 

My suggestion about 2 Ohm stable is a suggestion that will keep the amp cool. A 400 W mono amp (ratings are usually for 4 Ohm) will be plenty, even if only 4 ohm stable. A 1 Ohm stable amp is not very common, nor practical.

 

But check my math, maybe I need another cup of jo.

[Wingnut]

Imagine a single 10" driver producing 126dB +/- 4 dB from 26 to 90 HZ.

 

Michael

 

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That's impressive.

[Halen5150]

That would probably be ideal, especially if 2 ohm stable.

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He said he bought two dvc 4-ohm subs. He needs an amp that can handle a 1-ohm mono load.

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

 

Each VC is 4 Ohm. Series the VC's in each driver, 8 Ohm per driver. Parallel wire the drivers. (2) 8 Ohm drivers in parallel presents 4 Ohm.

 

My suggestion about 2 Ohm stable is a suggestion that will keep the amp cool. A 400 W mono amp (ratings are usually for 4 Ohm) will be plenty, even if only 4 ohm stable. A 1 Ohm stable amp is not very common, nor practical.

 

But check my math, maybe I need another cup of jo.

 

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http://www.rockaudio.co.za/rockford2002/te...ring/wiring.htm

 

You can find the 1-ohm wiring configuration on this page for two dvc 4-ohm subs. 1-ohm stable amps are very common these days. I have a class D mono amp, and it barely gets hot at all. Explain to me why a 1-ohm stable amp is not practical...

[masterp2]

It doesn't matter to me what amp is used. Seems like this is a budget project, just giving advice that was personally solicited in a PM. If all you need/handle is 300W, running around for a 1 Ohm amp is a waste of money IMO.

 

If the scenario was different, say 15" drivers with 10 lb magnets and 2000W copper, and sound competition, I would understand needing to squeak another 500W out of a 1500W amp. But it doesn't sound like an audiobahn budget line driver has the requirements.

 

But like I said, I am suggesting what I would do. The selection of amps for 4 ohm applications outnumber 1 Ohm applications 10 to 1, at least. For me that defines practicality. I'm not really wanting to debate it, just offer good solid advice in a low power application.

[Halen5150]

Yeah I hear you, but you can still get around a good 600 watt mono block amp for around $250-$300, and then you have some power to spare incase you ever decide to upgrade the drivers.

[masterp2]

Agreed. I personally like to use 2 channel amps. That gives more variety for uses, stereo subs, etc. I use one 4 channel amp in my truck for the whole works. Previously I powered 2 stereo 10" subs with it, and now have 2 channels bridged to one 10" driver, for more power than I can use. I like having one amp, more tool storage, less to steal.