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Ignition left in "run" pos

jhm

By jhm
in Ask A GM Technician

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jhm Senior Enthusiast

jhm

Posted
Posted

I went out to my '01 4.8l silverado to get a cd out of the player. I turned the key to the "run" position to eject the disc. After putting it in it's case, the phone rang so I went into the house, forgetting to turn the key to "off". About 45 min later I went to go to the store and tried to start the engine but it just gave the rapid clicking sound. I jumped the battery and it started right up. After driving around for about 50 miles, I went to the Autozone and the guy checked the charging system and battery and said everything was fine. Did leaving the ignition in "run" kill the battery? What would it energize to draw that much current that would drain the battery? I assume the computer would be on, what else? Thanks! :jester:

Wingnut Senior Enthusiast

Wingnut

Posted
Posted

Your HVAC could have been running.

 

Oh, and you can eject a CD without putting the key in, just hit the eject button twice...Well, mine will eject it, not sure about the other 523 billion Delco stereos out there. :jester:

03blackburb Enthusiast

03blackburb

Posted
Posted

Left the doors open while camping and killed the battery. No key in the ignition. Luckily had cables and was able to stop someone going down the road.

I thought that these vehicles had some sort of battery run down protection.

jhm Senior Enthusiast

jhm

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Your HVAC could have been running.

 

Oh, and you can eject a CD without putting the key in, just hit the eject button twice...Well, mine will eject it, not sure about the other 523 billion Delco stereos out there. :chevy:

 

 

 

No, the AC and fan were not on. I am thinking maybe the fuel pump was circulating fuel thru the system???? Battery is a Delco 3 yrs old replaced by dealer when side post rotted off, truck was still in warranty otherwise I would have got a battery that had top posts. Like I said, the Autozone guy put the machine on it and I saw it display "BATTERY IS GOOD". They key in the CCA of the battery and it tests based on that. SOMETHING had to drain the battery :jester::D

Cool Zr2 Enthusiast

Cool Zr2

Posted
Posted
Did leaving the ignition in "run" kill the battery?

 

 

 

LMAO. You folks ask the funniest questions.

 

I'd be surprised if Gm-Tech actually takes the time to reply to that. hahahaha

 

 

Hey Batman! If I leave my key on will it drain my battery? said robin.

 

Batman then finished chugging down the jim beam and rifled Robin over the head with the bottle.

 

j/k :jester:

 

SOMETHING had to drain the battery

 

Hello!!! If the key is "on" then so is every sensor on the motor, along with ALL of them there devices that use that new fangled 12 volt DC power.

 

Its aint like the old days with the 6 volt head lights and no key, just the old crank start.

 

 

EDIT

 

I think you should bring your truck to the dealer and demand a new 05 replacement at no cost to you for your hastle. This situation is horrible. I'd contact the Better business bureau and my senator if I were you.

Wingnut Senior Enthusiast

Wingnut

Posted
Posted
LMAO. You folks ask the funniest questions.

 

I'd be surprised if Gm-Tech actually takes the time to reply to that. hahahaha

 

 

 

 

 

 

Really? So everybody knows everything? Then why does this board not only exist, but thrive?

 

Oh...And at least he was asking a valid question...Not just making a stupid topic like some people are inclined to do.

 

Example 1

 

Example 2

 

J/K :jester:

jhm Senior Enthusiast

jhm

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Did leaving the ignition in "run" kill the battery?

 

 

 

LMAO. You folks ask the funniest questions.

 

I'd be surprised if Gm-Tech actually takes the time to reply to that. hahahaha

 

 

Hey Batman! If I leave my key on will it drain my battery? said robin.

 

Batman then finished chugging down the jim beam and rifled Robin over the head with the bottle.

 

j/k :jester:

 

SOMETHING had to drain the battery

 

Hello!!! If the key is "on" then so is every sensor on the motor, along with ALL of them there devices that use that new fangled 12 volt DC power.

 

Its aint like the old days with the 6 volt head lights and no key, just the old crank start.

 

 

EDIT

 

I think you should bring your truck to the dealer and demand a new 05 replacement at no cost to you for your hastle. This situation is horrible. I'd contact the Better business bureau and my senator if I were you.

 

 

 

 

Sorry Batman, you should change your name to Robin because I think you laid an egg. HAHAHAHAHA. Sensors do just what the name say's, they sense or monitor conditions. How much current is drawn by each sensor? You must know, you seem to know everything else. How many amps are required to engage the starter motor and turn over 8 cylinders? I think it is maybe a little more than what those sensors are drawing. I have seen batteries power a starter motor trying to start a problem engine cranking for et of maybe 5 minutes before even slowing down. I think we need a new forum here, maybe "ASK BATMAN", this way we could get the straight scoop without having to ask the guy who actually knows what he is talking about! :D

GM-Tech Senior Enthusiast

GM-Tech

Posted
Posted

Okay, I'll dive into this one. :jester:

 

Quite a few things are on when the key's on, like every module in the vehicle (cluster, hvac, radio, bcm, etc., etc), but I've never actually checked to see how much current is flowing when the key's on. No, the fuel pump doesn't run except for the first two seconds after you turn the key on.

 

45 minutes with the key on should not run the battery down to where it won't start. We leave keys on all the time while we're in the process of diagnosing various things and it doesn't kill the battery.

 

Either the battery was not at full capacity when you did this or the battery is on its way out, regardless of the fact that it checked good. I can't count the times I've tested a battery numerous times and it passed with flying colors only to fail shortly thereafter.

jhm Senior Enthusiast

jhm

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Okay, I'll dive into this one.  :D

 

Quite a few things are on when the key's on, like every module in the vehicle (cluster, hvac, radio, bcm, etc., etc), but I've never actually checked to see how much current is flowing when the key's on.  No, the fuel pump doesn't run except for the first two seconds after you turn the key on.

 

45 minutes with the key on should not run the battery down to where it won't start.  We leave keys on all the time while we're in the process of diagnosing various things and it doesn't kill the battery.

 

Either the battery was not at full capacity when you did this or the battery is on its way out, regardless of the fact that it checked good.  I can't count the times I've tested a battery numerous times and it passed with flying colors only to fail shortly thereafter.

 

 

 

I think you are right about the battery. The charging system checked out good, and I also have known batteries that acted perfectly normal, then go dead instantly. Even though the machine said the battery was good, maybe it is not holding a full charge. I noticed the "eye" is not green since this happened, it looks clear. I still have 3 yrs warranty on this battery, but it would probably cost me less to get one at Autozone than have the dealer replace this one since the warranty is pro-rated. Thanks for the reply, I didn't think 45 minutes with the ignition on would run down a good battery. By the way, I'm gonna look for a top post, this is the second Delco side post to go south, the first one leaked acid, made a nice mess. :jester:

Cool Zr2 Enthusiast

Cool Zr2

Posted
Posted

45 minutes is quick, do you have anything aftermarket that could draw power? Amps, things like that?

 

I'm gonna agree with Gm-Tech that the battery might on the way out.

 

My humor is a bit different, you can tell when I'm serious or tooling around. If I offended you it wasn't ment to come across that way.

jhm Senior Enthusiast

jhm

Posted
  • Author
Posted
45 minutes is quick, do you have anything aftermarket that could draw power? Amps, things like that?

 

I'm gonna agree with Gm-Tech that the battery might on the way out.

 

My humor is a bit different, you can tell when I'm serious or tooling around. If I offended you it wasn't ment to come across that way.

 

 

 

You didn't offend me, but when someone has a problem and posts on this forum they don't need obnoxious useless feedback. If you wanted to help why not say what you said above? There are no aftermarket electronics on this truck. No offense taken. I have worked on vehicles for over 30 years, including some time in the 70's in a shop. I am not familiar with the electronic functions of this vehicle when the ignition is in the run position, that is why I asked the question. Hey Wingnut, I tried the disc eject, pushing the button twice and it worked. Have had this truck for 4 years and never knew that function existed. :jester:

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