Jump to content

Leveling a 2001 Silverado


Recommended Posts

Posted

What all needs to be done to raise the front of my 2001 Silverado? Is it as easy as just jacking up the front and turning the T-bar bolts until it is up as far as they will take it. If there is any link to a set of good detail instructions let me know.

Posted

Yea basically just jack up the front to take pressure off the suspension and give the ol adjuster bolts on the Tbars a couple turns... drop it down and back up and see/measure.

And go from there, if it needs some more do it again etc..

 

Then take it to a alignment shop once you are happy with the ride height and give it a bit to settle before you do IMO

Posted
Yea basically just jack up the front to take pressure off the suspension and give the ol adjuster bolts on the Tbars a couple turns...  drop it down and back up and see/measure. 

And go from there, if it needs some more do it again etc..

 

Then take it to a alignment shop once you are happy with the ride height and give it a bit to settle before you do IMO

 

 

 

 

I am wanting to do the same thing with my 02 Sierra 2500. I am assuming the process is the same. The big BUT though is will this void any extended warranty?? And define the T-bars for me, I am sure i can figure the process out but I do not want any damage. Also the more I read, the more I am confused. What direction to you turn the bolts on the bars AND what is this "key" you need to adjust it?

Posted

Well I dont have any pictures like I thought I did.. anyway.

 

Crawl under the truck at the door. There is a long bar that comes out of the lower controll arms and go back to about the rear of the door to a crossmember.

Where they go in you will see a "key" (its what they go into) They look like this http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_image...984_17_full.jpg but you will only be able to see the bottom portion and the torsion bar will go into the hex little opening.

 

There you will find a bolt (that toughes the skinny side of the keys) in the crossmember. To go up you tighten to go down you loosen, simple as that.

 

Further up you go the harder the truck will ride b/c you are limiting down travel. Also if you go up alot you will put more wear on your balljoints etc.. and they will wear a little quicker.

 

Dealer should not care and will probably never notice it. Each truck is put at a differant height from the factory anyway.

 

Crank then check your height by dropping the truck back down.. etc..

it takes about 4.5 - 5 complete turns for roughly an inch (on average that is not the case every time)

Do them in complete turns and count each from where you start and do the same on the other side... measure etc..

Posted
arent there little spacers you can buy to insert in your front suspension.. it seems that this would be the more reliable way to go at it..  IMO

 

 

 

 

 

No way to add a "spacer" on a t-bar suspension.

Posted

Ok I completely understand the concept of all of the keys and such. My biggest concern is the fact that I do not have a 1/2 ton truck, nor do I have an HD. My truck is a 3/4 ton Light Duty 4x4 so I am lost as to what factory key's have been installed???

Posted
Ok I completely understand the concept of all of the keys and such.  My biggest concern is the fact that I do not have a 1/2 ton truck, nor do I have an HD.  My truck is a 3/4 ton Light Duty 4x4 so I am lost as to what factory key's have been installed???

 

 

 

 

What is the GVW of your truck? Does it have 8 Lug wheels? :thumbs:

Posted

8 Lug wheels

 

Also I cranked mine as the are and acheived about 1 and 3/4 of lift. Interestingly, I noticed that the driver's side bolt needs to be cranked quite a bit more to achieve the same height. Upon inspecting other random GM trucks in parking lots, I noticed this was common out of the factory as well.

 

Also a note, my truck required no alignment as the camber was at 0 after cranking the bars.

Posted
8 Lug wheels

 

Also I cranked mine as the are and acheived about 1 and 3/4 of lift.  Interestingly, I noticed that the driver's side bolt needs to be cranked quite a bit more to achieve the same height.  Upon inspecting other random GM trucks in parking lots, I noticed this was common out of the factory as well.

 

Also a note, my truck required no alignment as the camber was at 0 after cranking the bars.

 

 

 

 

 

My driver side hangs noticably as well...

Posted
8 Lug wheels

 

Also I cranked mine as the are and acheived about 1 and 3/4 of lift.  Interestingly, I noticed that the driver's side bolt needs to be cranked quite a bit more to achieve the same height.  Upon inspecting other random GM trucks in parking lots, I noticed this was common out of the factory as well.

 

Also a note, my truck required no alignment as the camber was at 0 after cranking the bars.

 

 

 

 

Your truck has Purple Keys(P/N-15045171) and you probably have GK Bars(8615 Ft. lbs.Torque) P/N-15528963LH and 15528964RH. There should be a sticker on the T-Bar near the rear crossmember with a 3 letter code.The first letter will either be an L for left or an R for the right. The other two letters are the code for the bar. Example-LGK would be a GK bar on the drivers side of your truck(Left Side). Even though you have 0 camber I would still go down to an alignment shop and have it checked.:thumbs:

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.6k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    343,003
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Patrick Fergy
    Newest Member
    Patrick Fergy
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 864 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
×
×
  • Create New...