2000 Sierra Trans Pan replacement

[chris_kucia]

About to do a fluid change before winter sets in.

 

Like a couple of people, my trans pan drain plug has made itself part of the oil pan and is not removable. Makes changing the fluid and filter a PITA.

 

I ordered replacements from GM today (www.partszoneonline).

 

Thought I'd post the part numbers in case anyone else needs the info.

 

***NOTE: My Z71 has the deep-sump pan. There is a different part number for the shallow pan ***

 

Deep Pan Kit (includes gasket): 24229658

*** See posts 11,12,13 below. This P/N does not have a hole for the drain plug. GM has discontinued the pan with the drain plug ***

 

Drain plug: 24213991

 

As of this posting, 24229658 is $45.01 and 24213991 is $3.48

 

FWIW...

 

P.S. partszoneonline got back to me with the correct part numbers within an hour or two of my e-mail inquiry. I've dealt with them before and they're a great company to buy parts from.

 

BTW, My truck is a 2000 Sierra (NBS) extended cab 4x4 Z71 std bed with the 5.3. I believe the trans is the 4L60e.

 

 

***Warning- see posts #11,12. The P/N for the pan may be wrong - there's no hole for the drain plug ***

[chris_kucia]

Has anyone figured out what size the head on that bolt is?

 

14mm won't fit, 15mm is sloppy.  9/16 won't fit, 19/32 is too loose!!!

 

What works?

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

I'll try to take a look at the new one when I get it.

 

My old one's so mangled, I can't tell what it was supposed to be.

[Ape0r]

I wouldn't bet on being able to get the drain plug off of the new pan any easier. Good luck though! I worked at a Chevy dealer as a shop assistant this summer, and one of the mechanics told me he'd never had any luck getting one off.

[chris_kucia]

I wouldn't bet on being able to get the drain plug off of the new pan any easier. Good luck though! I worked at a Chevy dealer as a shop assistant this summer, and one of the mechanics told me he'd never had any luck getting one off.

 

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I'm hoping that a little antisieze compound on the threads will help.

 

I also thought about getting some of that magnetic strip material and making a magnetic cover so I could coat the area with grease, then cover it with the magnetic sheet to keep out the road grime and salt.

 

I'm assuming junk gets up there and corrodes the threads.

 

Could it be that they were overtightened at the factory? I've tried everything short of drilling it out to try and get the old one off - penetrating oil, heat, vice grips, chisels, etc.

[sjspor]

Chris, many have tried before you, 1 or 2 have gotten that plug out. Just change the fluid like we've doing since the days of powerglides. Get a big pan, a lot of rags and start to loosen the bolts.

[Ape0r]

Chris, many have tried before you, 1 or 2 have gotten that plug out.  Just change the fluid like we've doing since the days of powerglides.  Get a big pan, a lot of rags and start to loosen the bolts.

 

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That is the way to do it. Filter needs changing out now and again anyway, and theres no reason to be doing fluid any more often than 40-50k anyway, I don't think dropping the pan a couple times over the life of the vehicle will kill ya =). If I remember correctly, the tranny pan gasket on these trucks is not re-usable. The replacement gasket comes in a package with a filter at your dealer, but your new pan will probably include one.

 

Whenever I dropped a pan on anything this summer, whichever mechanic I was working with would keep one eye on me, no one wants to miss out seeing some kid dump trans fluid all over himself!

 

Fortunely, I never did =).

[325]

The drain plug can be removed very easily with a 15mm six point socket and a 3/8" impact wrench.

[Bish]

I wouldn't bet on being able to get the drain plug off of the new pan any easier. Good luck though! I worked at a Chevy dealer as a shop assistant this summer, and one of the mechanics told me he'd never had any luck getting one off.

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

I'm hoping that a little antisieze compound on the threads will help.

 

I also thought about getting some of that magnetic strip material and making a magnetic cover so I could coat the area with grease, then cover it with the magnetic sheet to keep out the road grime and salt.

 

I'm assuming junk gets up there and corrodes the threads.

 

Could it be that they were overtightened at the factory? I've tried everything short of drilling it out to try and get the old one off - penetrating oil, heat, vice grips, chisels, etc.

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

 

Yes, they were overtorqued at the factory. Since I replaced my destroyed oem bolt, I have not had any trouble at all. Just don't gorilla it on there like they did at the factory. With the drain, I just drain and fill every couple oil changes to keep the fluid fresh and then I do a filter every 50K. I get about 1/3 of the total fluid out draining the pan.

[chris_kucia]

Thanks for all the replies.

 

For me, its worth the $50 or so in parts to get the drain working.

 

My truck won't fit in my garage, so I have to work on it in the driveway. Its a heckuvalot easier to change the filter without having to balance the full pan while on my back and get it down into the drain pan without spilling it all over me and the driveway.

[chris_kucia]

Got the parts today.

 

 

There's a problem.

 

 

The drain pan has the indentation where the plug would go, but there's no hole.

 

I've contacted partszone to see what might be the problem. In the meantime, I wouldn't go ordering anything based on the above part number.

[chris_kucia]

Got the parts today.

 

 

There's a problem.

 

 

The drain pan has the indentation where the plug would go, but there's no hole.

 

I've contacted partszone to see what might be the problem.  In the meantime, I wouldn't go ordering anything based on the above part number.

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

 

Looks like GM redesigned the pan to no longer include the hole for the drain plug.

 

I'm trying to see if there's another P/N for a pan that has the drain. The above part number looks like it will work, as long as you don't mind not having the drain plug.

[chris_kucia]

Got the parts today.

 

 

There's a problem.

 

 

The drain pan has the indentation where the plug would go, but there's no hole.

 

I've contacted partszone to see what might be the problem.  In the meantime, I wouldn't go ordering anything based on the above part number.

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

 

Looks like GM redesigned the pan to no longer include the hole for the drain plug.

 

I'm trying to see if there's another P/N for a pan that has the drain. The above part number looks like it will work, as long as you don't mind not having the drain plug.

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

 

Looks like GM has discontinued the pan with the hole for the drain.

[97chevy350]

Yup, there is definately no getting that drain bolt out, tried it on my dad's 99. Ended up just having to drop the whole pan, which by the way, is not pleasant considering the exhause crossover pipe runs conventiently right under the pan. (by the way, it has the tow package so it has the deeper pan.) Ended up taking the crossover pipe loose, also not pleasant if you have never had it loose, ur gonna need the impact wrench. Good luck!

[chris_kucia]

Yup, there is definately no getting that drain bolt out, tried it on my dad's 99.  Ended up just having to drop the whole pan, which by the way, is not pleasant considering the exhause crossover pipe runs conventiently right under the pan.  (by the way, it has the tow package so it has the deeper pan.) Ended up taking the crossover pipe loose, also not pleasant if you have never had it loose, ur gonna need the impact wrench.  Good luck!

 

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I don't have the crossover pipe, but as with most, the trans shift cable bracket is in the way of dropping the pan.

 

Getting to the bolts on that is a lot easier if you disconnect the front driveshaft.

 

Not a big deal, but it pretty much doubles the time it would take if you could just drop the pan and be done with it.

 

Having the drain would make that whole job just a little bit easier, and would let me flush & fill a portion of the trans fluid occassionally between filter changes.

[Bish]

Yup, there is definately no getting that drain bolt out, tried it on my dad's 99.  Ended up just having to drop the whole pan, which by the way, is not pleasant considering the exhause crossover pipe runs conventiently right under the pan.  (by the way, it has the tow package so it has the deeper pan.) Ended up taking the crossover pipe loose, also not pleasant if you have never had it loose, ur gonna need the impact wrench.  Good luck!

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

I don't have the crossover pipe, but as with most, the trans shift cable bracket is in the way of dropping the pan.

 

Getting to the bolts on that is a lot easier if you disconnect the front driveshaft.

 

Not a big deal, but it pretty much doubles the time it would take if you could just drop the pan and be done with it.

 

Having the drain would make that whole job just a little bit easier, and would let me flush & fill a portion of the trans fluid occassionally between filter changes.

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

 

 

You could easily drill a hole and have a welding shop spot weld a nut or a flat square piece of steel with a tapped hole in it. Also, why couldn't you buy a pan from an earlier model? 12560393 or 12573695

 

Typical GM.....uh, since we can't figure out how to put the bolt in properly, let's just get rid of it!