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I should have listened to y'all


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Posted

Ok, this will teach me to listen to others who have tried this. I decided to change my transmission filter and fluid the other day so I made a trip to my local Chevy dealer and get a genuine GM Powertrain filter and gasket kit to the tune of $76.00 and then go to Checker for 5 quarts of Dextron III. Then I go to Sears to get the recommended 6pt 15mm socket and set out to change my trans fluid. Well, like others here, I guess He-man put the friggin' plug on at the factory so it wouldn't budge. The corners of the bolt started to round off and I decided to quit there before I really screw it up. So, I took the truck to my local Chevy dealer for their quick transmission service. The full price for the service is listed at $129.95 but since I had the filter and gasket already they wouldn't include that in the price. Well, when the truck is done, I paid $96.00 or so plus tax for the service. This plus the inflated $76.00 I had already paid for the filter/gasket. So, I ended up paying about $172.00 for the service when it would have only been $129.95 + tax if I had just taken it there to begin with. Live and learn, I guess. I also have 5 quarts of Dextron III laying around now that I forgot to take with me to the dealer so I ended up paying for 5 quarts of theirs. I have no idea why I'm sharing this but hopefully it will keep someone else from making the same mistake.

Posted

Ummm...If you were replacing the filter anyway...Why didn't you just drop the pan with the fluid in it? It's messy, but that's how everybody has been doing it for the last 50 years or so, before some nimrod finally decided to put a drain plug in the pan.

Posted
Ummm...If you were replacing the filter anyway...Why didn't you just drop the pan with the fluid in it? It's messy, but that's how everybody has been doing it for the last 50 years or so, before some nimrod finally decided to put a drain plug in the pan.

 

 

 

 

My thoughts exactly, that's how the dealer did it!!! :D

Posted

I didn't have a big enough drain pan. The pan I use isn't wide enough to cover the whole area. Maybe that'll be my next investment after the set of Craftsman bolt-outs I bought. Also, it was windy that day so I figured if I dropped the whole pan there would be a larger amount of fluid for the wind to catch and blow everywhere than if I just had the one stream coming from the drain hole. Oh-well, I guess. Live and learn. Next time I'm definately doing it myself. :D

Posted

This isn't any help to you now, but I find its easier to get that plug out when the engine is good and warm. You can drain it, go inside and have a beverage and then drop the pan when its cooled off a bit...

 

 

Steve

Posted
This isn't any help to you now, but I find its easier to get that plug out when the engine is good and warm. You can drain it, go inside and have a beverage and then drop the pan when its cooled off a bit...

 

 

Steve

 

 

 

 

That makes sense as the pan would be warmer and expanded a little. I'm gonna remember that next time. I noticed the same thing with my old Volkswagen Bus when I change the oil. If the engine is a little warm the drain plug is easier to break loose. Thanks for the tip. I plan to do this at each 30,000 miles so it shouldn't be long before the next try. :D

Posted

The easiest way to empty the pan before dropping it is to disconnect the cooling line at the radiator. Attach a hose and run it down to a bucket. Start the engine and about 4 quarts will pump out. Shut off when you see bubbles in the line, about 10 seconds. The pan will then be empty. Drop it, change the filter, clean the pan and button back up. Then you have the option of adding the 4 qts back in and replacing the cooler line, or add the 4 qts in and then start it again to pump out 4 more. repeat again to have a complete transmission oil change. The new oil does not mix with the old and follows one big circuit thru the tranny. You'll see the fluid change color when the new stuff starts comming out. Connect the line and add 3 quarts. Warm up the tranny and fill to correct level.

Posted

Hello Butch,

 

That's a good approach I will try, also. When draining the xmission using the cooling line, which line do you disconnect at the radiator...there are two...is it the the upper or the lower one? (One fluid in, one fluid out). I'm not sure...

Posted

Usually it's the upper line that returns to the pan, usually!!!!!!

 

Be carefull, I've done some that were backwards!!! Made a big mess.

 

I usually put a hose on the tube side and another on the radiator side till I see which one it's going to come out. If you can see the line, you can trace it back to the tranny. One goes in right above the pan, that's the return. The radiator has a real odball thread. I usually just "screw" the hose into the threaded hole and hold it while someone else mans the ignition switch.

Posted
I didn't have a big enough drain pan.  The pan I use isn't wide enough to cover the whole area.  Maybe that'll be my next investment after the set of Craftsman bolt-outs I bought. Also, it was windy that day so I figured if I dropped the whole pan there would be a larger amount of fluid for the wind to catch and blow everywhere than if I just had the one stream coming from the drain hole.  Oh-well, I guess.  Live and learn.  Next time I'm definately doing it myself. :D

 

 

 

 

 

That is when you drain it in the alley behind your neighbors house!! JK

Posted

I do my fluid, filter, and gasket every fall. I dont even use the drain plug, I just drop the whole pan. Just loosen up one side first and it'll all drain out at one end first, and your left with only a little in the bottom.

 

Thats how I did it with my previous trucks (ford and dodge), and how ill continue to do so.

 

However, I LOVE the fact that the rear diff has a drain plug, I hate the smell of the diff fluid and that drain plug helps cause I can just take the plug out and walk away from the smell until its all drained.

 

Take it Easy!

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