machine buffing and polishing

[slemmer]

I have one of those 10" random orbitor polisher which I think don't do a darn thing. I've seen the grinder-style polisher that most body shops use. I'm considering getting one of these but not sure if I should buy a 7" or 10" diameter polisher. Is one better than the other? Anyone tried this way of buffing/polishing? I think the only way to get rid of those spider swirls and to really bring out the lustre and shine is to use one of these mahines and find a good polishing wax/compound. Thoughts?

 

Stephen

[LikeaRock14]

I have one of those 10" random orbitor polisher which I think don't do a darn thing. I've seen the grinder-style polisher that most body shops use. I'm considering getting one of these but not sure if I should buy a 7" or 10" diameter polisher. Is one better than the other? Anyone tried this way of buffing/polishing?  I think the only way to get rid of those spider swirls and to really bring out the lustre and shine is to use one of these mahines and find a good polishing wax/compound. Thoughts?

 

Stephen

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

A rotary is the fastest and most effective way to polish paint and remove semi-major scratches. I've never seen one with a 10" backing plate, nor have I seen a 10" pad for a rotary. You can find 7-8" pads all day long though.

Using a rotaty really isn't that hard, but if you have very little experience with one I'd suggest practicing on something other than your own personal vehicle. Find someone with a junk car that's willing to let you practice or get a couple junk panels to practice on. Buffing is 10% product and 90% skill. I can all sorts of abrasive polishes and get the same results with each, same with a mild polish during final polishing

I started out with a Harbor Freight rotary, couldn't beat it for $40. I use mine all the time and it's good as new. I'm trying to find a used DeWalt 849 polisher, but everyone liekes to hold on to them. I wouldn't suggest buying one brand new, you're easily looking at $200+. I'd stick with something cheaper then move up to the DeWalt. IMHO it's hands down the best rotary on the market. Fairly light, strong motor and it's easy to use.

I haven't used a LOT of polishes, but I'm a huge fan of Presta Products. They have a deal with Edge Pads and they strickly use their pads with their polish kits. Each pad is color matched to the label on the polish so you always use the right product with the right pad. I knew didly squat about buffing before I had the Presta kit, but I learned really quick with the Presta kit. Their polishes break down fast and don't leave a lot of dust behind (as long as your pad is in good shape).

The kit comes with their Cutting Creme and a black cutting pad, 1500 Polish and a green light cutting/polishing pad, Swirl remover and a blue final polish pad. The swirl remover is an amazing product, I haven't left one swirl with it at all and it leaves an outstanding gloss on the paint, it can make anyone look like a pro

Just be careful around edges and don't hold the buffer in one spot for too long. Once you get pretty good you can tuck the edg of the pad into tight spaces and cut out light cobwebs (or "swirls" in no time. I can do a 2 step polish and a wax (light cut to remove most of the cobwebs, final polish to remove swirls and improve gloss) in about 2-2.5 hours on a full size pickup.

I'd highly reccomend checking out the Presta kit, their website is www.prestaproducts.com I'd give you more info but I'm tired from from and need a quick nap

[blk99SLT]

My truck has a lot of swirls and light to medium scratchs. Being black they really show. I use McGuire's Deep Crystal System Paint Cleaner, followed by Deep Crystal Polish. I topped it off with two coats of McGuire's NXT Tech Wax which is supposed to hide swirls and scratchs. It did what it claimed to do, most scratches were gone and no swirls...plus it had the wet look, was very impressed with the products. I did everthing by hand and buffed with a 10" orbital buffer after last wax application.

[LikeaRock14]

My truck has a lot of swirls and light to medium scratchs. Being black they really show. I use McGuire's Deep Crystal System Paint Cleaner, followed by Deep Crystal Polish. I topped it off with two coats of McGuire's NXT Tech Wax which is supposed to hide swirls and scratchs. It did what it claimed to do, most scratches were gone and no swirls...plus it had the wet look, was very impressed with the products. I did everthing by hand and buffed with a 10" orbital buffer after last wax application.

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

Ok, just for clarification, what you see are cobwebs or spiderwebs and marring from typical washing. Swirls are left from a rotary buffer when a final polish isn't done or when the idiot doing the final polish doesn't know what he/she is doing.

 

Hiding scratches and spiderwebs works good, but after a few washes they'll appear again. You have to cut into the paint with an abrasive polish and cutting pad to truely remove them all

[slemmer]

My truck has a lot of swirls and light to medium scratchs. Being black they really show. I use McGuire's Deep Crystal System Paint Cleaner, followed by Deep Crystal Polish. I topped it off with two coats of McGuire's NXT Tech Wax which is supposed to hide swirls and scratchs. It did what it claimed to do, most scratches were gone and no swirls...plus it had the wet look, was very impressed with the products. I did everthing by hand and buffed with a 10" orbital buffer after last wax application.

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

I had my car done by a detailer and saw the glass-like finish - all sratches and swirls were gone. The deep metallic blue colour really "popped" in the Summer sun. Then, after a month of washing, I started to notice the swirls coming back - the silicone finish they put on it was only temporary, but it did look like a brand new paint job!

[slemmer]

I have one of those 10" random orbitor polisher which I think don't do a darn thing. I've seen the grinder-style polisher that most body shops use. I'm considering getting one of these but not sure if I should buy a 7" or 10" diameter polisher. Is one better than the other? Anyone tried this way of buffing/polishing?  I think the only way to get rid of those spider swirls and to really bring out the lustre and shine is to use one of these mahines and find a good polishing wax/compound. Thoughts?

 

Stephen

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

A rotary is the fastest and most effective way to polish paint and remove semi-major scratches. I've never seen one with a 10" backing plate, nor have I seen a 10" pad for a rotary. You can find 7-8" pads all day long though.

Using a rotaty really isn't that hard, but if you have very little experience with one I'd suggest practicing on something other than your own personal vehicle. Find someone with a junk car that's willing to let you practice or get a couple junk panels to practice on. Buffing is 10% product and 90% skill. I can all sorts of abrasive polishes and get the same results with each, same with a mild polish during final polishing

I started out with a Harbor Freight rotary, couldn't beat it for $40. I use mine all the time and it's good as new. I'm trying to find a used DeWalt 849 polisher, but everyone liekes to hold on to them. I wouldn't suggest buying one brand new, you're easily looking at $200+. I'd stick with something cheaper then move up to the DeWalt. IMHO it's hands down the best rotary on the market. Fairly light, strong motor and it's easy to use.

I haven't used a LOT of polishes, but I'm a huge fan of Presta Products. They have a deal with Edge Pads and they strickly use their pads with their polish kits. Each pad is color matched to the label on the polish so you always use the right product with the right pad. I knew didly squat about buffing before I had the Presta kit, but I learned really quick with the Presta kit. Their polishes break down fast and don't leave a lot of dust behind (as long as your pad is in good shape).

The kit comes with their Cutting Creme and a black cutting pad, 1500 Polish and a green light cutting/polishing pad, Swirl remover and a blue final polish pad. The swirl remover is an amazing product, I haven't left one swirl with it at all and it leaves an outstanding gloss on the paint, it can make anyone look like a pro

Just be careful around edges and don't hold the buffer in one spot for too long. Once you get pretty good you can tuck the edg of the pad into tight spaces and cut out light cobwebs (or "swirls" in no time. I can do a 2 step polish and a wax (light cut to remove most of the cobwebs, final polish to remove swirls and improve gloss) in about 2-2.5 hours on a full size pickup.

I'd highly reccomend checking out the Presta kit, their website is www.prestaproducts.com I'd give you more info but I'm tired from from and need a quick nap

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

 

I guess it is me and my patience level - I want it quick and with good results. Holding the orbital polisher kinda puts me to sleep. I'll try it again, but use the wife's car as the guinea pig.

[LikeaRock14]

I have one of those 10" random orbitor polisher which I think don't do a darn thing. I've seen the grinder-style polisher that most body shops use. I'm considering getting one of these but not sure if I should buy a 7" or 10" diameter polisher. Is one better than the other? Anyone tried this way of buffing/polishing?  I think the only way to get rid of those spider swirls and to really bring out the lustre and shine is to use one of these mahines and find a good polishing wax/compound. Thoughts?

 

Stephen

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

A rotary is the fastest and most effective way to polish paint and remove semi-major scratches. I've never seen one with a 10" backing plate, nor have I seen a 10" pad for a rotary. You can find 7-8" pads all day long though.

Using a rotaty really isn't that hard, but if you have very little experience with one I'd suggest practicing on something other than your own personal vehicle. Find someone with a junk car that's willing to let you practice or get a couple junk panels to practice on. Buffing is 10% product and 90% skill. I can all sorts of abrasive polishes and get the same results with each, same with a mild polish during final polishing

I started out with a Harbor Freight rotary, couldn't beat it for $40. I use mine all the time and it's good as new. I'm trying to find a used DeWalt 849 polisher, but everyone liekes to hold on to them. I wouldn't suggest buying one brand new, you're easily looking at $200+. I'd stick with something cheaper then move up to the DeWalt. IMHO it's hands down the best rotary on the market. Fairly light, strong motor and it's easy to use.

I haven't used a LOT of polishes, but I'm a huge fan of Presta Products. They have a deal with Edge Pads and they strickly use their pads with their polish kits. Each pad is color matched to the label on the polish so you always use the right product with the right pad. I knew didly squat about buffing before I had the Presta kit, but I learned really quick with the Presta kit. Their polishes break down fast and don't leave a lot of dust behind (as long as your pad is in good shape).

The kit comes with their Cutting Creme and a black cutting pad, 1500 Polish and a green light cutting/polishing pad, Swirl remover and a blue final polish pad. The swirl remover is an amazing product, I haven't left one swirl with it at all and it leaves an outstanding gloss on the paint, it can make anyone look like a pro

Just be careful around edges and don't hold the buffer in one spot for too long. Once you get pretty good you can tuck the edg of the pad into tight spaces and cut out light cobwebs (or "swirls" in no time. I can do a 2 step polish and a wax (light cut to remove most of the cobwebs, final polish to remove swirls and improve gloss) in about 2-2.5 hours on a full size pickup.

I'd highly reccomend checking out the Presta kit, their website is www.prestaproducts.com I'd give you more info but I'm tired from from and need a quick nap

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

 

I guess it is me and my patience level - I want it quick and with good results. Holding the orbital polisher kinda puts me to sleep. I'll try it again, but use the wife's car as the guinea pig.

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

The rotary will give you exactly that, great results without too much effort/time. It's not quite summer, you've got time to practice up with a rotary before summer hits

[slemmer]

So true! What should I expect as an average expected time to buff up the truck with an orbitor?

[LikeaRock14]

So true! What should I expect as an average expected time to buff up the truck with an orbitor?

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

Well, that all depends on how much time you're willing to spend

I've only been using a rotary for about a a year now, right before I started with one I detailed my sisters Ram with a 10" orbital and a cleaner wax, it took about 5 hours total, but at the time I didn't know nearly as much as I do now.

To be honest, just spend your time more wisely on something else. If you're even considering a rotary then you won't ever get the results you want with an orbital. Now, if you want to spend a few extra bucks and get a buffer, I'd suggest the Porter Cable D/A polisher. It's the perfect tool for the weekend detailer/hobbyist and it's more than safe to use. Hell, I let my 3 year old nephew try mine out on his dads Jetta. He only used it for about 5 seconds though, the vibration scared him

Depending on the amount of spider-webbing and marring in the finish, the PC can remove most all of them in one pass, sometimes it might take a 2nd pass (this is with an abrasive polish too). If you haven't gotten the results you want within 2 passes, then IMHO you're not going to get any better unless you use a rotary. Also, depending on the polish you're using, you might see some hazing lkeft behind. Following up with less abrasive polish will remove the hazing and restore the gloss you're after. The PC can remove moderate surface scratches, but it will take some time. That's the biggest thing to remember when using a PC, you have to work the polish long enough for it to break down. Once the polish is translucent (sp) or completely gone, then you know the polish has done it's job.

You can find everything you need to know about the PC at www.detailcity.com, I'm a regular over there and I learn something new every day, it's a great site! Not too many of us young bucks over there though (I'm only 18), but still a great site.

One last thing you can do as a final step is apply a glaze after you polish and before you wax. the glaze will hide quite a bit of the cobwebs left after polishing, apply a nice sealant over it and you're good to go!

If you want to get great results without having to practice with a rotary, I'd highly suggest investing in a PC, it's well worth the money!

[torx]

I have one of those 10" random orbitor polisher which I think don't do a darn thing. I've seen the grinder-style polisher that most body shops use. I'm considering getting one of these but not sure if I should buy a 7" or 10" diameter polisher. Is one better than the other? Anyone tried this way of buffing/polishing?  I think the only way to get rid of those spider swirls and to really bring out the lustre and shine is to use one of these mahines and find a good polishing wax/compound. Thoughts?

 

Stephen

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

 

Buffers take a lot of skill to use and use properly. You can damage or ruin your paint with a buffer if you don't know what your doing. I would recommend going with a Porter Cable random, dual action, orbial polisher. It's often just called the "PC". There is the 7424 and the 7336SP. I would recommend getting the 7336sp. It has the larger counter weight for use with 6-7" polishing pads. You can even find the 7336sp at Lowes. Just get a pad and backing plate bundle. You can't really harm your paint with one of these and can get just about the same results as a buffer.

 

here's a few other good detailing sites that have detailing kits

 

http://www.detailersparadise.com/View.asp?...%2D122521261403

 

http://www.autopia-carcare.com/

[torx]

So true! What should I expect as an average expected time to buff up the truck with an orbitor?

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

 

Figure about the same as a hand wax. The "PC" polisher just does 1000-6000 rpm compared to your 5-20 from your hand.

 

Wash using the two bucket method or get a grit guard/one bucket, using two real sheepskin wash mitts (one for the top half and one for the bottom half), clay, wash again, wax with "PC" and Klasse all in one, then I use Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze, but to get the car show shine use the P21S Carnauba Car Wax after/or instead of the sealant glaze. Since mine is a daily driver teh sealant glaze works great since it's acrylic and not carnuba wax it won't degrade as quickly. Plus I only have to do it every few months and if I only use the sealant glaze I can keep adding coat after coat to get and even richer shine.

[slemmer]

ok, sounds like the rotary is out and I'll give the orbitor a second chance and add a little more time/patience to the mix.