Jump to content

Bass Blockers for 6.5 less distortion?


Recommended Posts

Posted

Yes, I've used them. They're just bipolar electrolytic capacitors, and they pass all middle and high frequency audio, but they attenuate the bass, rolling off at 6 dB per octave.

 

Blocking the bass eliminates doppler distortion, and can improve imaging. It also reduces the load on the amplifier driving the bass-blocked speakers.

 

Bass blockers only make sense if:

- you have a subwoofer or other speakers providing the low bass, and

- you know the impedance of the speakers you are hooking these up to.

 

Choose your cutoff frequency to match your subwoofer's upper limit.

Posted

thanks you.....your awesome. so i have infinity 4x6 in the side back and im getting kicker rs 6.5 in the doors ran off a kicker amp.

 

Specifications Kicker 05 RS65.2

 

Power Range 8-100Watts

Peak Power Handling 200Watts

Impedance (Ohms) 4

Sensitivity 87dB

Frequency Response 40-21KHz

 

REF6412CFP

4" x 6" two-way plate loudspeaker Infinity

 

Specifications

Power Handling, RMS: 45 Watts

Power Handling, Peak: 135 Watts

Sensitivity: 91dB

Frequency Response: 72Hz - 21kHz

Mounting Depth: 1-15/16"

Impedance: 4 Ohms

 

and ill be getting a SL7 15" 2000watt subwoofer by kicker

Overall Min Frequency Response: 18 Hz

Overall Max Frequency Response: 100 Hz

 

specs for 15"

 

So if i can cut out the bass from the 4x6 and 6.5 and just have the sub pounding thatd be great. which ones should i get and is there a better place to get them like radioshack?

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,965
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DaleB
    Newest Member
    DaleB
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,075 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • My truck is a ¾ ton but my placard also says 80 for the rear tires, I think I might have the upgraded suspension to the 3500 series maybe.   I put my air down to 60 and the light was still on, and there was no way I was putting over 60 psi in the rear empty and not towing because I knew the actual number Toyo gave me and I didn't wanna ruin the center of my tires!   And you actually can change it in the settings from metric or is and it will show kph or mph then when you go into your tire settings it will be either psi or kpa, but it would be nice to just change it directly on the tire psi page 
    • Common Sense Assembly   Your driveline is forgiving of the occasional mistake. It will even often forgive the random serious blunder. But it will not forgive a continuous bad habit.      What? Not everything needs to be a five thousand word essay.       
    • We drove about 15 minute east today to visit a friend and saw a steep increase in price in the same county. About 50 cents a gallon steepper. 
    • Sure about that? A degree wheel and a dial indicator would lower your degree of assurance in that statement. 😉    It why we have offset keys and dialable timing sprockets. Just say'n.... I've built a few and have never seen one "On the money". 
    • I will admit I haven't experimented much with pressure drops beyond the numbers I put in and part of that is that the numbers I used are fairly low and then found out it would trigger regardless at that 35 psi. Having said that I had tried before had changed the placard pressures and being that I have a 1 ton set to 80 on the placard for the rear I believe it triggered close to 60, the front I don't recall now for sure but thought maybe it could get close to 45 from that factory 60 placard pressure. So I never did figure out if it was a number of psi from placard pressure to the alarm or a percentage of the total placard number as some figured it was like a 25% drop from placard pressure would trigger it. So as to try and answer your question, I believe I set the placard pressure on the front to 47 or so and while I run the front tires at 40, they have dipped below that some if its colder and I haven't put "winter air" in yet and never once have had the front alarm go off. I would say that the answer your looking for is no, that if you set your placard pressure to 45, you have a certain amount of room to drop below that pressure before the alarm will go off.    The pressures you decide to run in your truck, that ends up being what makes sense to you based on what your carrying in your truck or if towing, then have to bump them back up to something that will carry the load in the rear and the fronts typically left at the same pressure. It all comes down to that chart I put the link to and using an accurate roadside scale to be your guide, both unloaded and then loaded to know your minimum safe pressures.    I just wish GM would allow a person to change the readings for the tire pressures to the English system of pounds as I have to look at that goofy metric reading that will never ever jive in my head and will go over and change it just to figure out what they are if need be and then change it back. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...