new brake rotors for my '00 k2500hd

randynoguts · February 16, 2007

i have hated the brakes on this truck since day 1. dealer never fixes the problem. new rotors warp in 20k and i am fed up. has anyone switched to an aftermarket set of rotors and pads and solved this problem? BTW i don't abuse my brakes, i havent towed anything for a couple of years, and i have that annoying not gonna stop feeling below 5mph. all the wheel speed sensors "check out"ok at the dealers. this is really 2 seperate problems but maybe i can get one fixed? so, slotted,drilled, both? coated, help!

TEE · February 16, 2007

4 wheel disc ?

If not, I'd go for bigger slotted rotors up front with Hawk pads and Raybestos shoes on the back and thouroughly check the drums.

randynoguts · February 17, 2007

no not 4 disc . funny you mention the rears. i have pften thought that they are not even grabbing, but as the techs tell me, "they are working fine and in adjustment" thanks for the suggestion. tommy

HighSierraZ-71 · February 17, 2007

The rotors on my 98 Chevy 1500 warped at 3200 miles and were turned by the dealer. The brakes were always soft. Dealer said that was normal. Lasted about another 35K, then I sold the truck. My 2001 Z-71 had warped rotors at 35K. It was out of warranty since I bought it used and had a local shop replace them with aftermarket rotors which supposedly are thicker than the OEMs. No heavy towing, abuse, etc. So far my 06 Sierra is okay after 10.5K miles so my fingers are crossed.

Billdog350 · February 17, 2007

Guys, I had this problem on my C5 corvette and 1994 K1500 pickup (as well as my wife's 2004 Trailblazer). Once I started bedding my pads in according to these directions, they've been VERY resistant to glazing or warping. Think of the warped rotors as having a buildup of brake material/bonding agent, not as actually being warped! I've often been able to sand the surface of the rotors and get rid of the pulsation...

Step 1: Make 10 stops from 30 mph (50 kph) down to about 10 mph (15 kph) using moderate braking pressure and allowing approximately 30 seconds between stops for cooling. Do not drag your pads during these stops. After the 10th stop, allow 15 minutes for your braking system to cool down.

Step 2: Make 5 consecutive stops from 50 mph (80 kph) down to 10 mph (15 kph). After the 5th stop, allow your braking system to cool for approximately 30 minutes. This completes the break-in of your pads to the rotor surface.

During Steps 1 & 2, a de-gassing process occurs which may produce an odor coming from your pads as they complete the break-in cycle. This odor is normal and is part of the process your pads must go through to achieve their ultimate level of performance. The odor will go away after allowing your braking system to cool for approximately 30 minutes.

As with any new set of pads, do not tow a trailer or do any hauling during the break-in period.

Full seating of your new brake pads normally occurs within 1,000 miles.

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=85

Failure to follow these procedures may result in brake judder, excessive noise, or other difficulties in bedding-in the new brake pads. The pads need a fresh surface to lay down an even transfer film. Residue from the previous pad compound on the surface or an irregular surface on a used rotor will cause the pads to grip-slip-grip-slip as they pass over the rotor surface under pressure. The resulting vibration will cause noise and telegraph vibrations through the suspension and steering wheel. This vibration is known as brake judder or brake shimmy. This is typically caused by an uneven transfer film on the rotor surface or an uneven surface on the rotor not allowing that transfer film to develop evenly. This is often misdiagnosed as a warped rotor.

Bedding-in new pads and rotors should be done carefully and slowly. Rapid heat build up in the brake system can lead to warped rotors and or glazed brake pads. Most brake pad compounds will take up to 300-400 miles to fully develop an even transfer film on the rotors. Following are the recommended bed-in procedures from each manufacturer:

randynoguts · February 22, 2007

thanks guys... when i finally decide i will post what i did....

SPARK CHASER · February 27, 2007

If you want brake rotors that don't warp, go buy a set of Wagner rotors and Wagner brake pads to match. I've used their brake products on just about anything that rolls and have never had a problem.

randynoguts · February 28, 2007

thanks for the suggestion sparkchaser! will look into them.

randynoguts · April 2, 2007

ok , so heres the update.... i got the rotors replaced and new pads etc... i went with some powerslots. with raybestos pads, rears were ok so just adjusted them. so far , so good. stops better already. we will see after the recomended break in of 1k miles. . of course trying to avoid hard stops in rush hour traffic is hard to do but im trying! thanks to all for the suggestions....randy

superbee · April 2, 2007

Make sure your wheels are torqued properly using a Tqwrench. Uneven tension will warp rotors when they heat and cool.

BPK · April 4, 2007

Always best to do brakes yourself and put on quality parts. That way you know it's done right and not by some high school kid at the local brake/muffler repair shop.