Suburban purchase question

[John inNH]

Hi all,

I'm a new member here, and figured I'd get some advice from the experts. I currently have a '94 Silverado as my winter/dump/tow vehicle (I drive a '99 Trans Am most of the time, weather permitting). While the truck has been great, I need to upgrade to a Suburban for several reasons, including wanting to tow a decent sized camper (24'+/- @5000 pounds). As the kids are now too big to fit in an extended cab/crew cab, I figure the Suburban is the way to go. I've owned a '98 and 2000 silverado in the past, loved the '98 (totaled in an accident). I liked the 2000, but it was more troublesome than the '98 (I spent way more time at the dealer with a 30,000 mile 2000 than with a 130,000 mile '98, and the '98 did not have the GM engine knock). If I was to sell the TA I would look at a 04-05, but I figure if I can find a good '98-'99 I can have the best of both worlds. I'm not super concerned about gas milage, I have a 3 mile commute, and the Suburban will be used only in snow and to tow either my snomobile trailer or a camper. Any thoughts on the 98-99's I looked at the various spec's and they seem to be much better than the '97 and older models, so I'm concentrating on them. Any advice would be appreciated.

 

Thanks,

John

[redchev1]

I have a 1999 K2500 ssuburban and love it. I chose the 2500 because it has a much better stance and it dosent have the body roll or seam as squirmy as a half ton. Mine has a 5.7 and gets 15mpg on a good day of hiway driving but usually around 11mpg. It has the LT package and about 100000 miles but it was less than $10000.

 

One thing I didn't know when I bought it was my registration is cheaper because in WI it is considered a car and my insurance is cheaper than my 1998 K1500 pickup.

[irlrsk8]

Hi

 

I've had a couple of Suburban's myself and they've been the family vehicle of choice for many of us, about 8 to be exact. I recently purchased a good condition and well maintained 1997 K2500 LT, fully loaded. I researched alot before I purchased it. I did find that the K2500 has a much stronger transmission, suspension and rear end, which is very helpful for towing. The one thing that I had the most challenge in deciding was to get the 350 or 454 engine. My mechanic recommended to seriously consider the 454. My previous 1989 K1500 Suburban had the 350 and I was happy with that engine. I figured that the 454 would consume alot more fuel. I test drove a 1997 K2500 w/each different engine. It was apparent that the 454 didn't have to work as hard as the 350.

 

If this was a normal driving vehicle, I'd probably went with the 350 engine, however it's a Rec. Vehicle/Family vehicle and I tow a boat or trailer with it. It was a very good move, I've got plenty of power and in comparison to having the other engine, the mileage is a moot point. Hope this was helpful. Good luck and good searching!!

 

Larry

[John inNH]

Thanks to those who have replied so far.

I'm undecided on the 1/2 ton or 3/4 ton question so far, I do prefer a "stiffer" ride, all 3 of my Silverado's have been Z-71's for that reason, but it seems there are 15-20 1/2 tons available for every 3/4 ton. Also, most of the 2500's are "strippers" and I'm looking for a loaded model, LT or the GMC equivelent (SLE?). I do prefer the big-block, if they are available, but the only 2500 I've seen with the LT package has the 350. How does the 1500's ride compare with the 2000 and up models, my 2000 Silverado Z-71 was much softer than the '98, both were extended cabs, but the '98 had less body roll on corners.

 

Thanks,

John

[C & A s Dad]

John you will likely receive many answers to your questions but I will add my .02. I tow a 29' 6,500lb camper with a 1500 series Yukon XL 5.3L with a 4.10 rear end. This truck is also my Wife's daily driver. If I had the luxury of having a Burb or Yuk XL avail for rec use only, there is no doubt that I would have chosen a '02 or newer 2500 with the 8.1L big block. This thing is a beast for towing but likes the fuel. Also, from what I can tell, they are great vehicles due to Allison behind the 8.1L and the much larger rear end. Mine has done well with my camper and is very stable. I have had no safetly concerns whatsoever. However I could use a little more grunt when in the hills.

 

If you choose a 1500 series as I did, I would suggest a couple of things.

1) You will be much happier with the 4.10 gear. The little 327 motor is really happy towing in drive with this rear end gear.

2) Uggrade your trans cooler to a stacked plate cooler about twice as large as the oe unit

3) Replace the trans fluid with Syn

4) I would also suggest you pay very close attention to the OE hitch. Mine flexed so badly with my Equal I Zer weight dist hitch that I could not get good weight transfer. I replaced it with a Class V Putnam XDR unit and solved all of my problems.

5) Last but not least, add a set of Air Lift Air bags to your rear coils. Run them at 10 to 12 PSI when not towing and at 20 to 25 PSI when pulling your camper. This will be the best $75.00 that you spend as far as helping the towing capabilities of the 1500.

 

BTW the GMC equivalent to Chevy's LT is an SLT.

 

Good luck in your search and it is my understanding that the 2500 8.1Ls are bringing a little higher price right now becasue this combo is not avail on the new Burbs.

[John inNH]

Update, I may have Suburban soon. I decided to sell my '99 Trans Am afterall, I will be getting a company car soon, and can't justify owning 2 vehicles I will hardly drivve. That being said, I decided to buy a 2000 up Suburban for my personal use vehicle. I was looking at 1500's, when a friend decided to sell his 2001 2500. He also wants my '94 pickup as a farm/plow truck. The deal is too good to pass up, so I'm probably going for it. Its a fully loaded 2500 LT, with a 6.0, towing package, etc. it has around 61,000 miles, and is in great shape, except it needs pads and rotors (Common issue aparently).

 

Anyway, I have a few questions. First of all are there any issues I should check for especially as its a 2500? I'm more familiar with the 1500 series. Also, what is the difference between the LT suspension and the LS? Supposedly you get a better suspension with the LT, or is that only with the 1500 series?

 

Thanks for any advice,

 

John

[John inNH]

Anyone have any advice? Help?

 

John

[Truckman031]

The LT is loaded with all the bells and whistles. An LS can be loaded up with most of the options of an LT except for a few things. You cannot get heated seats or full power seats with an LS, these are LT only. The suspension I think you are talking about is the Autoride suspension on some 1500 Tahoes/Suburbans. This was an option, however, not a standard thing. I would not worry about it as my mom's 01 Tahoe LT has the standard suspension and it rides great. The 2500 should be stiffer but when you put a trailer behind it it will ride like a Caddy.

[TheBrokenMarine]

I've got a 01 2500 LS. I've got no complaints. I've got the 8100 motor though which seems to be a bit thirsty for oil. I love the ride of the 3/4 ton as well as the extra ground clearance. I've got 50,000 miles and I'm still in love with her.

[John inNH]

Well, I took the 2001 for a ride last night, and it is better than I expected. The 2500 has much less body roll than any of my 1500's did, ('94 4x4 shortbed, '98 Z-71 x-cab SB, and 2000 Z-71 x-cab LB). The ride was stiff, which I like, but not harsh, so the wife won't complain.

The truck will need brakes, which I knew from the owner. Their mechanic is also my mechanic, and I talked to him about it, he says its a great truck. The pads and rotors will need replacing to pass inspection, anyone have suggestions on what brand would be best for this ? Keep in mind I don't want to get cheapo's, but I also don't want to spend a huge amount either, so no crossdrilled gold plated ones, please.

 

While checking out the truck I noticed it had a factory transmission temp. gauge, is this standard with the 2500, or is part of a towing package?

 

Anyway, the deal should be done today, and then I have to wait for them to get the title from their bank, so it looks like I won't take delivery untill Monday at the earliest.

 

John

[mikbor1]

Trans temp gauge is standard on 2500

[bdeboer]

I just put a set NAPA tru-stops on the front my '02 K2500 suburban in the signature. The price was around $70 for the pads, and rotors were around $50 each. I replaced mine because of a vibration when stopping, pads had over 50% left at 84000 miles. I purchased the Suburban at 50,000 miles and do not know if they had been replaced previously. The dealership I purchased from did their "inspection" and refaced the rotors without replacing pads at that time. I replaced the rear pads and one rotor about 15000 miles ago because a pad de-laminated on the rear.

[John inNH]

Thanks, guys. I'll post more when the deal finalizes.

 

John

[concours]

I just put a set NAPA tru-stops on the front my '02 K2500 suburban in the signature. The price was around $70 for the pads, and rotors were around $50 each. I replaced mine because of a vibration when stopping, pads had over 50% left at 84000 miles. I purchased the Suburban at 50,000 miles and do not know if they had been replaced previously. The dealership I purchased from did their "inspection" and refaced the rotors without replacing pads at that time. I replaced the rear pads and one rotor about 15000 miles ago because a pad de-laminated on the rear.

 

 

www.performancefriction.com brakes are the BEST I've found for stopping power. The NAPA rotors are NOT factory balanced (OEM's ARE) and induced a irritating vibration that I live with every day. My 2001 2500 8.1 SLT is by FAR the worst build quality of any vehicle I've ever owned. I spent way too much time fixing things that should never have failed.... Mexican made junk. My 1994 'Burb was Waaaaaay better designed, BIGGER inside and better built. Here's a list of a few that come to mind on the 2001.....

 

Auto-Trak SUCKS (crap design, gobbles tires and fuel), front diff too hot to touch, bad bearings, cases ruined during repair (YES, there was oil in it, Mobil 1 75-90) $900

 

HVAC system won't properly modulate temp., leaks LOTS of COLD air on the passenger footwell, A/C compressor catastrophically failed at 60K miles, new pump, condensor, rcvr., rear orifice

 

Fuel gage flakey, causes BIG low fuel light in your face

 

"Service ride control" message, intermittant

 

Intermittant engine stalling, failure to start (bad crank sensor, GIANT PITA to change)

 

OEM fog lamps junk 27watt bling, lenses fell off

 

vinyl seating material rips at stitching

 

8.1L gobbles $7 MobilD1 oil

 

37 gal. small(er than the old body 42 gal.) gas tank

 

low headroom with sunroof (packaged with the other features I wanted) my head rubs the ceiling (only 6'-2", 33" inseam, 17x37 shirt)

 

and now the ABS is kicking on at 10-5 mph on dry pavement... There is a recall, but I won't let the stealership wreck anything else and will do it myself.

 

I'm sure there is more I forgot.... I obsessively maintain and carefully operate all my vehicles... this one is a big disappointment.

[concours]

...2" oil spots in the driveway now, got to dig into that problem.

 

I forgot, the Auto-lamp system seems reversed, headlights are ON during bright weather conditions when you don't need them, dark, rainy or snowy days they are OFF when you'd want them on for safety.