Dual Battery Set-up And Questions

[s10473]

I have a 03 2500HD. I am in the middle of the dual battery set-up. I am trying to keep it OEM. I do not have any RPO's the say I have any components installed for this. But in this link I have the Lonely Connector.

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?...hl=dual+battery

 

Acourding to it the connector is attached to a isolator for the battery set-up. Any help how to tap into it or what I need to finish the install.

 

Thanks

[renolaw]

would also like to get mine hooked up. have the tray and battery installed and have the lonely connector. so what next?

[steve383z]

Lonely connector? what's that for???

I just finished up my dual battery install and i didn't use any special connector

i justed wired the (+) of the 2nd battery to the (+) of the oem battery.

and the (-) to the engine block. it's simple, 12 volts double the amps.

i installed two bats because of my plow, my last truck had 2 and it worked out well with plowing. otherwise i probably would have just keeped the one.

[renolaw]

tnx for ur post-- i have considered such a parallel set up, however i want to isolate them. Part of the joy of an isolated battery is if one runs down, u still have a ready spare. Not one of those Autozone blue box isolators, but using a continuous duty rated solenoid, either switched manually or via the ignition. ($15 at NAPA last time i checked) Ideally i want to acquire the OEM parts to make it as factory as possible, altho the link in the earlier post does not show the lone terminal being used... So, absent the misc OEM parts, looks like i'll go w/ the solenoid, likely a Ford style (sacriledge, no?) and wire a switch under dash to manually engage a charging circuit to the aux battery. Of course, power to activate the solenoid should come from the aux battery. I have this set up on my Jeep and works well-- since all the assessories, winch, KC lights, etc are powered by the aux battery, i must remember to engage the solenoid every so often to keep the aux battery charged. This way i can control charging of the aux battery. Having the solenoid activated by the ignition means the charge is always going to the aux battery and there are times i would not want this.

 

I understand the two batteries should be as similar as possible, however in the jeep i use a red top optima as the starting battery and a yellow top for all the assessories, so we have a reg vs. deep cycle battery and this sometimes confuses the alternator and voltage regulator. Maybe get two yellow tops for the chevy...hummm...

 

The final question is HTF to run wires from engine bay into the cab. I have tried a number of places to slip or push wires thru a rubber grommet w/ no luck. Ideas on this anyone?

 

Thanks in advance on part suggestions for the OEM set up (and the lonely connector) and firewall pass thru issues.

 

mb

[Jacqson]

tnx for ur post-- i have considered such a parallel set up, however i want to isolate them. Part of the joy of an isolated battery is if one runs down, u still have a ready spare. Not one of those Autozone blue box isolators, but using a continuous duty rated solenoid, either switched manually or via the ignition. ($15 at NAPA last time i checked) Ideally i want to acquire the OEM parts to make it as factory as possible, altho the link in the earlier post does not show the lone terminal being used... So, absent the misc OEM parts, looks like i'll go w/ the solenoid, likely a Ford style (sacriledge, no?) and wire a switch under dash to manually engage a charging circuit to the aux battery. Of course, power to activate the solenoid should come from the aux battery. I have this set up on my Jeep and works well-- since all the assessories, winch, KC lights, etc are powered by the aux battery, i must remember to engage the solenoid every so often to keep the aux battery charged. This way i can control charging of the aux battery. Having the solenoid activated by the ignition means the charge is always going to the aux battery and there are times i would not want this.

 

I understand the two batteries should be as similar as possible, however in the jeep i use a red top optima as the starting battery and a yellow top for all the assessories, so we have a reg vs. deep cycle battery and this sometimes confuses the alternator and voltage regulator. Maybe get two yellow tops for the chevy...hummm...

 

The final question is HTF to run wires from engine bay into the cab. I have tried a number of places to slip or push wires thru a rubber grommet w/ no luck. Ideas on this anyone?

 

Thanks in advance on part suggestions for the OEM set up (and the lonely connector) and firewall pass thru issues.

 

mb

 

 

Take a look at this schematic, It's the setup I have in my truck. If you have any questions let me know.

 

[steve383z]

ohhhh isolation, ok

i assumed you wanted the dual bats for the same reason i did, (parallel them together for the amperes) but your reason is cool too.

what about a voltage sensing relay, powered but the original battery, at 14-14.5VDC running. this way it would activate, close, all buy itself with no switch and charge the second battery when it's volts drop below the relay's set point.

 

although this would completely defeat the idea of using oem stuff.

[homer07]

haven't installed any aftermarket eq yet, but my last vehicle had a complex av install. I used a battery isolater which would allow independant charging of the batts depending on need. Helped the alternator out.

[renolaw]

tnx for ur post-- i have considered such a parallel set up, however i want to isolate them. Part of the joy of an isolated battery is if one runs down, u still have a ready spare. Not one of those Autozone blue box isolators, but using a continuous duty rated solenoid, either switched manually or via the ignition. ($15 at NAPA last time i checked) Ideally i want to acquire the OEM parts to make it as factory as possible, altho the link in the earlier post does not show the lone terminal being used... So, absent the misc OEM parts, looks like i'll go w/ the solenoid, likely a Ford style (sacriledge, no?) and wire a switch under dash to manually engage a charging circuit to the aux battery. Of course, power to activate the solenoid should come from the aux battery. I have this set up on my Jeep and works well-- since all the assessories, winch, KC lights, etc are powered by the aux battery, i must remember to engage the solenoid every so often to keep the aux battery charged. This way i can control charging of the aux battery. Having the solenoid activated by the ignition means the charge is always going to the aux battery and there are times i would not want this.

 

I understand the two batteries should be as similar as possible, however in the jeep i use a red top optima as the starting battery and a yellow top for all the assessories, so we have a reg vs. deep cycle battery and this sometimes confuses the alternator and voltage regulator. Maybe get two yellow tops for the chevy...hummm...

 

The final question is HTF to run wires from engine bay into the cab. I have tried a number of places to slip or push wires thru a rubber grommet w/ no luck. Ideas on this anyone?

 

Thanks in advance on part suggestions for the OEM set up (and the lonely connector) and firewall pass thru issues.

 

mb

 

 

Take a look at this schematic, It's the setup I have in my truck. If you have any questions let me know.

 

 

 

 

yes, we are talking the same idea. under the jeeps design a switch is placed between the line you call "to ignition activated power source" and i run the other end of the switch to the hot side of the aux battery. i can then manually control when a charge will be sent to the aux battery. With the ignition as a switch , its always on. This way if i accidentially leave the dash mounted activation switch on, it will only discharge the aux battery and not the starting battery. in otherwords, i'm using a manual method to 'isolate' and control charging to the aux battery.

 

If OEM ideas fall thru-- going to pick and pull next week to snoop-- i'll try the switched soledoid idea and unlike the jeep, will use a relay so that two 12 volt hot wires need not pass thru the firewall.

 

A voltage sensing relay sounds interesting-- got a PN?

[Jacqson]

tnx for ur post-- i have considered such a parallel set up, however i want to isolate them. Part of the joy of an isolated battery is if one runs down, u still have a ready spare. Not one of those Autozone blue box isolators, but using a continuous duty rated solenoid, either switched manually or via the ignition. ($15 at NAPA last time i checked) Ideally i want to acquire the OEM parts to make it as factory as possible, altho the link in the earlier post does not show the lone terminal being used... So, absent the misc OEM parts, looks like i'll go w/ the solenoid, likely a Ford style (sacriledge, no?) and wire a switch under dash to manually engage a charging circuit to the aux battery. Of course, power to activate the solenoid should come from the aux battery. I have this set up on my Jeep and works well-- since all the assessories, winch, KC lights, etc are powered by the aux battery, i must remember to engage the solenoid every so often to keep the aux battery charged. This way i can control charging of the aux battery. Having the solenoid activated by the ignition means the charge is always going to the aux battery and there are times i would not want this.

 

I understand the two batteries should be as similar as possible, however in the jeep i use a red top optima as the starting battery and a yellow top for all the assessories, so we have a reg vs. deep cycle battery and this sometimes confuses the alternator and voltage regulator. Maybe get two yellow tops for the chevy...hummm...

 

The final question is HTF to run wires from engine bay into the cab. I have tried a number of places to slip or push wires thru a rubber grommet w/ no luck. Ideas on this anyone?

 

Thanks in advance on part suggestions for the OEM set up (and the lonely connector) and firewall pass thru issues.

 

mb

 

 

Take a look at this schematic, It's the setup I have in my truck. If you have any questions let me know.

 

 

 

 

yes, we are talking the same idea. under the jeeps design a switch is placed between the line you call "to ignition activated power source" and i run the other end of the switch to the hot side of the aux battery. i can then manually control when a charge will be sent to the aux battery. With the ignition as a switch , its always on. This way if i accidentially leave the dash mounted activation switch on, it will only discharge the aux battery and not the starting battery. in otherwords, i'm using a manual method to 'isolate' and control charging to the aux battery.

 

If OEM ideas fall thru-- going to pick and pull next week to snoop-- i'll try the switched soledoid idea and unlike the jeep, will use a relay so that two 12 volt hot wires need not pass thru the firewall.

 

A voltage sensing relay sounds interesting-- got a PN?

 

 

 

This is the same setup you as your idea except this setup is automatic. When the ignition is turned on both batteries are joined in Parallel so you have extra capacity when you go to start your truck or run any other add-ons. Both batteries are charged when the truck is running. When the ignition is off both batteries are separate. If the main one dies, you can use a jump wire from the AUX battery to the positive post of the solenoid. This will be like using jumper cables to start your truck. The Solenoid is a Cole Hersee Part #24143.