Jump to content

Please Help With A Lift Kit Selection


Recommended Posts

Posted

I have been reading old topics from the search feature and I'm just about blind from them and I'm even more confused now then when I started.

 

I have a 2003 2500HD 4x4 long bed extended cab with 4:10 gears and a 6.0L gas guzzler. I bought this truck new and swore up and down I'd never lift it but now the time has come where I need wider tires, when I travel to my hunt camp the sugar sand is over 12" deep and swallow my 265/75/16s whole. I do need to travel through a few mud holes that others have rutted up pretty well too so it's beneficial to get more ground clearance as well. Knowing this you guys need to know that I have no intentions of playing in the mud with this truck and this need is just so I can make it through without needing to be towed through by my buddies Dodge (how embarrassing).

 

I would prefer to NOT cut any plastics or bumpers if I can get away with it and I really didn't want to put a suspension lift that required the brackets. My local shop says I can put the keys and 2" blocks in the rear and that will allow me 305s but I will have to cut the bumper and the inside fender wells. They also said a 6" lift will allow me 33s clean with no cutting or 35s while cutting the bumper.

 

Does anybody have a better solution than this? I really didn't want to take the suspension apart and add brackets.

 

Here are some pics of the truck

 

truck19.jpg

truck18.jpg

truck15.jpg

roof1.jpg

Posted

Oh I almost forgot, I park in a garage with an 8' tall door. Can anybody tell me if I'll still be able to fit in the garage? If the 6" lift with 35s will be too high I will not buy it.

Posted
Oh I almost forgot, I park in a garage with an 8' tall door. Can anybody tell me if I'll still be able to fit in the garage? If the 6" lift with 35s will be too high I will not buy it.

 

Your truck will sit 7.7" higher, how tall is your truck right now? Im going to guess it will.

 

The Pro Comp website says you can run 35x12.50 with their 6" lift.

Posted

Hey, if i could be able to post my pictures of my truck id show some pictures of the cutting away of the plastic on mine and its doesnt look bad, the only way you could tell is if i pointed it out. If you have your 4 wheel parts mechanics do this, they have done it plenty of times and make it look as if it rolled off the asembly line like that.

 

Now i was kinda in the same boat you were.. i wanted a truck that would sit alittle higher but not look like i was trying to be a monster truck.. i went with the procomp 6 inch and have 35's, granted i have a 1/2 ton. My truck fits in my garage with some room to play.

 

Sounds like the people youve talked to were right though, the keys and the blocks or mayby a body lift will help. With a body lift its self your not going to be raising your ground clearance any, but your giving your wheel wells enough space to add the bigger tires which in return will give you the little extra ground clearance. In my opinion theres nothing wrong with the body lift as long as you get the gap guards along with lifting the bumpers as well...you have a newer truck and you would look cheap if you didnt.

 

I wanted alittle more than say a 3 inch, so i thought about a 4 inch.. but as you might have seen on here, the 4 inch cost about the same if not more than a 6 inch and youd have to change the stock rims on the 4 inch anyways.. so i went ahead and got the 6 inch and love it. I was afraid of it being to high for what i was wanting, but it turned out to be just what i was wanting.

 

 

 

Now with your truck, if you wanted to go with the 6 inch and not cut the plastic... id raise the torsion bars once its done and that might take care of the not cutting the plastic but im not sure considering you have a 2500... To me it looks like your trucks wheel well wouldnt need any more clearance with the 35's and there would be no need in cutting. Id also stick with the procomp lift kits, in my personal opinion i like my tires not to stick out from the side of my truck, and procomp lift are made to where your tires sit in the same spot as your originals do(meaning not sticking 3 inches out from the side of your truck) Do some looking on cardomain.com and look at trucks like yours with a 6 inch to get an idea of what your truck will look like, and the people usually say what lift kits they have along with all other mods.

Posted

I just talked to the local shop where I was about to pull the trigger in the 6" lift right up to the point where he told me about cutting and welding the frame. That was all it took for me, there is no way I'm gonna do that. I'm planning the keys and rear block kit so I can put 33s on it and that's it. At least I can replace the bumper from cutting it if I need to return the truck to stock but once the frame is cut there is no turning back. :thumbs:

Posted
I just talked to the local shop where I was about to pull the trigger in the 6" lift right up to the point where he told me about cutting and welding the frame. That was all it took for me, there is no way I'm gonna do that. I'm planning the keys and rear block kit so I can put 33s on it and that's it. At least I can replace the bumper from cutting it if I need to return the truck to stock but once the frame is cut there is no turning back. :thumbs:

 

Doing that would put added stress on the CVs etc. etc. I would say keep looking and pay the extra coin to have it done right.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,840
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    appletrav
    Newest Member
    appletrav
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 273 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This is a 1/2 ton thing ONLY.  All HDs 2020-2026 have the two speed transfer case, with Autotrac as an option.     1/2 tons 2019-2026, regular 4x4s come with a single speed case (no 4LO!), and trucks with Z71 ordered, or all Trail Boss trucks come with the 2 speed case.  2 speed case is also an option on WT, and is also standard on High Country.  
    • 2013 5.3 still to this day calls for the PF48 filter.  Which as a 15psi bypass pressure.     There is a TSB, 17-NA-157 that talks about the PF-63 and PF-64 filters which have a higher bypass rating of 22psi.    TSB HERE - temp.xml   "Beginning in 2012, the oil pumps began to regulate main gallery feedback instead of pump out pressure. This means that the oil pump now does not begin to regulate until pressure is built up to the main gallery. This change reduces the amount of time it takes to provide oil to the engine bearing and lifters during extreme cold start conditions.  Main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are present on the following engine families which use Spin-on oil filters: Small Gas Engine (SGE), Large Gas Engine (LGE), High Feature (HFV6) Gen2 and Small Block Gen5 gasoline engines. These engines with the main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are factory built with an ACDelco® oil filters"   It also calls out what engines use those filters.  The gen 4 small blocks were not on that list (LMG, LC9, L9H, L92, L94, L20, L96).  Gen 5 small blocks use the higher pressure filter.          That all said...   Your 7045 Napa filter is the PF63 equivalent, with 22psi bypass.  You are already using the higher bypass pressure filter.  You CAN keep using it, you don't technically have to use it though.  
    • Do you know WHY the filter relief setting was increased to 22 psig?    When the new system goes into the second stage the pump volume ramps up considerably. It was found that the 15 psi filter bypass setting put the filter in bypass on a warm engine when the second stage was activated. Raising the filter bypass setting forced the filter to do what it designed to do. Filter. Preventing debris from circulating during high load, high rpm operation.    So next question is how did GM find this out? VLOM/lifter failures and a deep dive by Melling Corp.    Last question. Is it required? Look at it like this; a motor may be equipped with a rev limiter. But it only works if the set point in reached. That 22 psig setting only matters if the pressure differential across the filter media exceeds 15 psig during normal warm operation. Second stage kicks in around 3000-3500 rpm.    I can't answer your question because I don't know you and how you use the truck. But I think there is enough information here to let you decide for yourself. 😉
    • Probably not their first rodeo, so it should go as planned most likely.  Typically the service manager or tech doing the swap will put some seat time to shake it down after they get it all put back together.  We usually put 50-100mi before we hand them back so if something happens, its not after you get it.  A coolant leaks, oil leaks, a ground left off or loose, vibration, etc.     The new engines so far have been good?  There's been a couple that have popped out there again (the replacement engine) but most have been okay.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...