Jump to content

Gm Molded Mud Flaps For An 08

02SierraZ71

Recommended Posts

02SierraZ71 Enthusiast

02SierraZ71

Posted
Posted

I just bought a 2008 sierra ext cab and am about to install the GM molded mud flaps. I have searched and read all about the idea of putting the 3m paint protection film (clear tape) on the truck behind the mud flaps.

 

I bought a roll of it and it now seems like it will not be that easy to cut it and put it on so it looks good, but it is doable. There seems to already be some of this tape installed from the factory on the rear, but not enough to cover the entire area of where the mudflaps go.

 

Do you guys think it is necessary or a good idea to use this tape? Or do you think i should forget about the tape and just put the mudflaps on.

 

Im in the process of the install now.

MS3DALE Senior Enthusiast

MS3DALE

Posted
Posted

I taped mine also,It took me a few extra minutes but I think its worth it.

DamageInc Enthusiast

DamageInc

Posted
Posted

Where do y'all get this fancy tape? In a northern (salt) environment, it might help trap salt against the metal, and be worse than just bolting on the flaps.

Opinions?

02SierraZ71 Enthusiast

02SierraZ71

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah i think im gonna use the tape. i guess i dont need it over the whole area, just where the flap hits the body.

 

Or, did you guys tape the entire area?

shocktrp Enthusiast

shocktrp

Posted
Posted

I had them on my Trailblazer - they scratched the sh*t out of the paint on all 4 of them.

 

Definitely tape the whole area (anywhere the plastic can touch).

jdg2 Enthusiast

jdg2

Posted
Posted

I just got my Husky mud flaps delivered yesterday and it looks like the protective film is pre-cut for the fenders. I guess I'll find out this evening.

02SierraZ71 Enthusiast

02SierraZ71

Posted
  • Author
Posted

im seriously thinking about selling these molded ones and going up to the dealer and getting the flat ones.

 

anyone have a part number and/or pic of the flat mud flaps?

MS3DALE Senior Enthusiast

MS3DALE

Posted
Posted
im seriously thinking about selling these molded ones and going up to the dealer and getting the flat ones.

 

anyone have a part number and/or pic of the flat mud flaps?

 

The part number for the flat ones with a Bowtie logo is 19172278,The part number for flat ones without any logo is 19154428.

MS3DALE Senior Enthusiast

MS3DALE

Posted
Posted
Where do y'all get this fancy tape? In a northern (salt) environment, it might help trap salt against the metal, and be worse than just bolting on the flaps.

Opinions?

I got mine at the local auto paint shop supply store,I got 3M brand.

The tape won't trap salt,It prevents the flap from rubbing the paint off the body panels.

Graembo Enthusiast

Graembo

Posted
Posted
I just got my Husky mud flaps delivered yesterday and it looks like the protective film is pre-cut for the fenders. I guess I'll find out this evening.

+1

 

I put on Husky aftermarkets and they come with pre-cut 3M clear strips. The huskys used clips and bolts so they're on there TIGHT. A buddy's '06 has them (moulded style) on from the factory and his are held in with plastic push/barbs. His move around lot and have of course ground the paint away (rusty now).

 

G

Silver Wraith Enthusiast

Silver Wraith

Posted
Posted

My last truck (a Dodge) I put the Dodge ones on and they started removing the paint within two weeks. The dealer re-painted (as a 'gesture', since THEIR accessory that I put on to protect the paint was removing it) and then put the clear tape on like they should have in the first place. No problems after.

biller007 Enthusiast

biller007

Posted
Posted

I went with the GMC flat ones, on the front they dont even touch the paint because of the wheel well skirt, and on the back the factory tape is behind them. Other then having to drill the back I love them. I went with the flat because on my 03, the moulded rusted out the metal behing them. Mostly du to the weight on them from salt in the winter.Even the screws that come with them have rubber that is supposed to fill the threads and stop rust..

Surfer_Nick Enthusiast

Surfer_Nick

Posted
Posted

If you want nice looking mud flaps that actually work, rather than just being there for aesthetics, get the Luverne flaps. They are stainless steel (won't rust) and are drill-less. They use the existing holes in the front and they use a clamp type thing that you tighten for the rear ones. I installed the 20" ones on both the front and the rear and they look dynamite, plus they actually do what they're supposed to do. Before I put them on, I was getting chips (and my truck was only a 2 weeks old!!!!) on the rocker panels, the lower part of the door, and just behind the wheel well. No more problems! Oh yeah, I might add, I ended up putting that clear tape on too just to be on the safe side.

post-52709-1221095478_thumb.jpg

post-52709-1221095520_thumb.jpg

post-52709-1221095478_thumb.jpg

post-52709-1221095520_thumb.jpg

post-52709-1221095478_thumb.jpg

post-52709-1221095520_thumb.jpg

post-52709-1221095478_thumb.jpg

post-52709-1221095520_thumb.jpg

02SierraZ71 Enthusiast

02SierraZ71

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I went with the GMC flat ones, on the front they dont even touch the paint because of the wheel well skirt, and on the back the factory tape is behind them. Other then having to drill the back I love them. I went with the flat because on my 03, the moulded rusted out the metal behing them. Mostly du to the weight on them from salt in the winter.Even the screws that come with them have rubber that is supposed to fill the threads and stop rust..

 

i have the flat ones now, and will be installing them in the morning.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Erfar
      Oil Change

      By Erfar · Posted

      have you stuck with dealer oil changes since then? I made the same switch after getting tired of crawling around under the truck, but I’ve found some dealers are way better than others about getting you in quickly. Curious if yours has been good about scheduling or if you’ve had to look elsewhere for quicker turnaround.
    • cherryred21duramax
      Can anyone decode a VIN to determine if this truck has had emissions issues or a recall?

      By cherryred21duramax · Posted

      Thank you.   I am set on a 3.0 Duramax as my previous truck with a Ford Ecoboost had just as many, if not more, "common" issues.  Cam phasers, timing chain issues, 10-speed valve body and CDF drum, emissions issues, etc.  So I figured, why not get 2x the fuel mileage (these things got 27+mpg on every mixed city/highway test drive I put them through) and better towing capability with resale value to boot?   My minimum, shortest trip will be 50 miles 1-way and I regularly go out of state with a travel trailer.  I'm planning on using this for a marketing/event promotion business also, which would require regular towing of trailers for bands, DJs, sound and lighting gear, along with my personal camera gear for filming events.   Looked at other trucks in the $30k+ price range but the issues seem to be everywhere, plus too many with gaudy mods.  I'm literally sticking with RWD trucks because they tend to be actually used as trucks, vs. the 4x4 models I've seen with unsafe lifts, huge tires, and general mods that would affect reliability (I'm wondering if some of them were tuned, hence the aggressive throttle response and hard shifting).   So my goal is to find a stock, 3.0 with 1 or 2 owners, in good physical condition, and decently well maintained.  Can't seem to find that up here, everything in the $27-30k range has had multiple owners, smoke smell, issues, or body damage.  Or the ridiculously modified trucks with 80k miles for under $27k but lots of problems...
    • KARNUT
      OCI, not when but why?

      By KARNUT · Posted

      That’s pretty tough Grumpy. I reread the previous few posts. They all reference oil changes. Much like your last thread. In my humble opinion it keeps things interesting.
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Engine Wear and ISO 4406   1.) Cold Starts. 2.) High Particle Count. 3.) Low operating temperature viscosity and high low temperature cranking viscosity. 4.) Depleted AW, Friction and Acid packages.  5.) High engine load.    https://me.caltexlubricants.com/en_me/home/learning/from-chevron/heavy-duty-diesel-vehicles-and-equipment/The-Importance-of-Clean-Engine-Oil-and-Its-Impact-on-Equipment-and-Business-Performance.html   High particle counts have five sources. 1.) They are manufactured within the engine. Both wear debris and amalgamation of degradation products and combustion driven soot (worse in GDI). 2.) They are ingested via intake air. Ever hear the best oil filter is a good air filter? 3.) They are entrained in the fuel. 4.) This one is insidious. They are introduced in 'fresh oil'. 5.) They are introduced during the oil change.   ISO 4406 is the test that measures and quantifies the combine effects of all of the above particle related issues. You can mitigate your way into multiples of engine life by being attentive to them all.    https://www.hyprofiltration.com/blog/is-new-oil-clean   (from the link above)    [Quote] What Is the Recommended ISO 4406 Cleanliness Code for New Oil?   A good upper limit for new oil cleanliness is 16/14/11 (ISO 4406). Typical new oil usually has ISO codes of 19/17/15 or worse, which is far too dirty for sensitive components. This can be a major cause of degradation and premature failure. [Close quote].     Source of graph: Machinery Lubrication (GM Study)  
    • Diamond817
      WTS: Pulsar LT 22451 GM Silverado/Sierra 5.3 & 6.2

      By Diamond817 · Posted

      Make me an offer!

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...