Jump to content

CB Radio Suggestion


Recommended Posts

Posted

 I'm looking into getting a CB for my 2000 GMC Highrider (ZR2). It will be used mainly for trail rides etc. I was thinking of just getting one of the small no thrills type from Radio Shack. Are they any good? Any other suggestions?

 Thanks

Posted

Hi,

I went with a Uniden due to compact size and quality plus it was only ?. If you are refering to a hand held CB I never had much luck with them. Also if using for trail rides when others are following a glass mount antanae works fine for that they just dont have a whole lot of range.

Posted

we pulled a radio shack cb from my dad's 97, you can change channels on the mic its amazing.  if you want one for a good price i'm sure he'd be welling to sell it.  (since we hate CBs)

Posted

Hey,

I like the radio shack cb.. i only use it for radar reports and when theres nothing on the radio..

The one i have was a great price for the use i ll get out of it..

Steve

Posted

If you plan on keeping the truck and using the cb alot, go on and get a decent one.  The uniden 76, cobra 25 or cobra 29.  If you want something top of the line go with a galaxy 44 or 66.  If you have any questions let me know, been playing around with these things for about 8 yrs now.

Brad

  • 7 years later...
Posted
I'm looking into getting a CB for my 2000 GMC Highrider (ZR2). It will be used mainly for trail rides etc. I was thinking of just getting one of the small no thrills type from Radio Shack. Are they any good? Any other suggestions? Thanks

 

 

The nice thing about CBs is you can get a real basic one fairly cheaply. They're all 4 watts, so a cheap one will have the same output power as an expensive one - you just get more bells and whistles with the more expensive models.

 

The Uniden 510 and Midland 1001z are both good affordable CBs. While the Midland 1001z has a few more features, the Uniden 510 is built a little better in my opinion and is really popular in 4x4 vehicles due to it's durability.

 

Hope this helps!

Posted
I'm looking into getting a CB for my 2000 GMC Highrider (ZR2). It will be used mainly for trail rides etc. I was thinking of just getting one of the small no thrills type from Radio Shack. Are they any good? Any other suggestions? Thanks

 

 

The nice thing about CBs is you can get a real basic one fairly cheaply. They're all 4 watts, so a cheap one will have the same output power as an expensive one - you just get more bells and whistles with the more expensive models.

 

The Uniden 510 and Midland 1001z are both good affordable CBs. While the Midland 1001z has a few more features, the Uniden 510 is built a little better in my opinion and is really popular in 4x4 vehicles due to it's durability.

 

Hope this helps!

 

 

 

 

 

Whew, I'm glad someone finally helped this poor man after 8 years!!

 

 

 

:)

Posted

While it's basically true that all CB sold in this country have a 4 watt dead key limit (imposed by the FCC), by what is commonly called "peaking and tuning" you can cause the power output to increase considerably, especially on the higher end models.

 

Aircraft radio was my specialty in the Air Force. When I got out of the military I began driving a truck (18 wheeler) for a living. So I sort of naturally progressed to CB repair and modification...

 

I agree with Snowman, go with the Cobra or Uniden, rather than the Radio Shack models. Maxon is making the Radio Shacks, and they're okay... but WAY below the quality you'll get in a tried and true Uniden radio.

 

The Uniden 510XL is a tried and true little unit. If you decide to have it peaked, DO NOT let the CB tech clip the modulation limiter... or it will over-modulate and sound muddy. The dead key can be increased on the 510 to good effect... about a 20% increase in output.

 

Yes, it's technically illegal to peak a CB radio. Sort of like tearing the tag off a mattress. :)

 

Avoid any CB with channel changing buttons or volume controls on the microphone... because if the mic cord goes bad, you will have to have an expensive re-wiring job done on that mic. If you stick with the Cobra or Uniden radios, you'll be able to find a replacement mic at any truck stop.

 

The antenna is a lot more important that the CB radio itself. K40 used to make a really great edge of the hood (or trunk) mounted antenna, but I'm told they've stopped producing these. Antenna Specialists have some that are comparable.

 

Many folks install antennas at the back of the cab (in the bed corner), which is fine, so long as you get a top loaded antenna (not one with a coil at the bottom)... the Firestick, or Wilson 1000 fiberglass models, or even the Francis antennas work well here, so long as they rise above the cab by at least 18 inches.

 

Best of luck.

 

Dan

Posted
Whew, I'm glad someone finally helped this poor man after 8 years!!

 

 

 

:thumbs:

 

 

quite funny after 8 years. haha. but irregardless, +1 on the uniden 510 with a peak and tune!! thats what I have, with an astatic mic and a k40 antenna. EXCELLANT reception and output.

If you want a bigger radio, go galaxy.... IF i had the room in my truck i would def. have a galaxy dx939 peaked and tuned in there!

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Didn't notice it was so old! Hopefully this well help someone else perhaps.... ;-)

 

The antenna is a lot more important that the CB radio itself. K40 used to make a really great edge of the hood (or trunk) mounted antenna, but I'm told they've stopped producing these. Antenna Specialists have some that are comparable.

 

You're absolutely right about the antenna being much more important. However, K40 still makes a really great trunk-lip / magnet mounted CB antenna (called simply the "K40 Antenna") that is well respected. I'm not sure if it's the same one you're referring to, but it sure sounds like it and they're still producing them.....

Posted
Yes, it's technically illegal to peak a CB radio. Sort of like tearing the tag off a mattress. :thumbs:

Dan

 

 

 

well, not that simple. a mattress tag relates to a consumer notice that only the consumer may remove. Exceeding 27MHz power limits is in fact illegal, no way around it, sorry. The FCC may impose fines and confiscate equipment, altho that rarely happens. Still, the law is the law. Rather than suffer 11 meter's lack of reliable performance and noise crashes, study for and get your amateur radio license. In my rig i run a Galaxy 949 to talk with the other 11 meter users, but more and more i go to my Yaesu FT8800 which covers 2 meters and the 440 band. Thru linked VHF repeaters i can talk for 100s of miles with perfect audio and full quieting to the machine. Aah, FM, no static at all... And the ham radio is 1/4 the size of the CB. Our jeep club is almost 100% ham licensees and after one plays with tone squelch VHF, its hard to go back to the CB. I also occasionally run my HF rig on 20 meters while mobile, but that is a different topic.

 

For those that do not want to get licensed and are tired of the 11 meter noise, renegade over-legal-limit stations, look into the MUSR radios. They're on approximate 151MHz and require no license. You can find affordable motorola maxtrax radios on ebay, etc. This is a shared band, but for most line of sight applications, its a better alternative that CB.

 

just my $.02

 

mb

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,716
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    BDS my HD
    Newest Member
    BDS my HD
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 649 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...