Jump to content

Suspect Left Hub Assembly Going Down... Please Advise

green 788

Recommended Posts

green 788 Enthusiast

green 788

Posted
Posted

Truck is a 1996 GMC, 3500 4x4.

 

Ticking sound coming from front left wheel. Does not tick when the truck is on a jack, only ticks when the truck is rolling on the road.

 

Mechanic said wheel bearing was going out (or gone)...

 

Question:

 

Do you have to replace that entire 300+ dollar hub assembly just to correct a bad bearing?

 

Or is there some way to replace the bearing without replacing the whole hub assembly?

 

Any special tools required to replace bearing (or entire assembly)?

 

Thanks,

Dan

2000DV4.8 Senior Enthusiast

2000DV4.8

Posted
Posted
Truck is a 1996 GMC, 3500 4x4.

 

Ticking sound coming from front left wheel. Does not tick when the truck is on a jack, only ticks when the truck is rolling on the road.

 

Mechanic said wheel bearing was going out (or gone)...

 

Question:

 

Do you have to replace that entire 300+ dollar hub assembly just to correct a bad bearing?

Yes, you have to replace the whole assembly, but there are places that have them cheaper than dealer prices.

 

Or is there some way to replace the bearing without replacing the whole hub assembly?

Nope.

 

Any special tools required to replace bearing (or entire assembly)?

Not sure about the size on your 1-ton, but on my truck I needed a 36mm socket to get the nut off that holds the CV axle into the hub assembly.

 

Thanks,

Dan

TXD Enthusiast

TXD

Posted
Posted

with the front end hanging in the air on jack stands, grab the top and bottom of the tire. if you can rock it in and out, top to bottom not side to side, then the hub is on its way out. the hub for the H-2 is the same device as that for the HD's. my connection at the dealer informed me on this and it was a few bucks cheaper too. great write up here

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=71798

 

edit: i forgot the year of your vehicle when i posted this. i am unsure on the year of yours

green 788 Enthusiast

green 788

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the reply, and the info. I'll keep that all in mind for future reference.

 

As for now, I got lucky and my ticking sound was actually a wheel simulator that was scuffing against the wheel. I removed it and the noise went away. I guess the truck's weight had to be on the front wheel before it would flex enough to make the simulator scrape the wheel.

 

Dan

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
    • glenn27
      Different requirements for oil filters?

      By glenn27 · Posted

      // Thank you, also for your  response. More information is always good. This 2013 GMC is most likely my 'forever truck"-I'm 77 and retired...and truck only has 42K on it-very clean-so I try to keep it that way.  Tks again for your  response- glenn
    • smooth68
      Alternate wiring for Kicker sub with Bose system. (DO THIS)

      By smooth68 · Posted

      I started my install this weekend. Everything was pretty straight forward but I ran into one issue with running power through the firewall. The nipple grommet on my High Country already has a small harness running through it - has anyone else ran into this issue? And on the engine bay side, does the wire basically just penetrate the factory wiring boot? I did this on my '22 Trail Boss and it seems much easier but thats been a few years. My other thought would be possibly drilling a new hole adding a rubber grommet just to the lower left of the factory hole. Thoughts?   Has anyone used a T-harness off the Bose amp and obtained power from there? It seems a little odd that such a small amp needs 3 power leads
    • glenn27
      Different requirements for oil filters?

      By glenn27 · Posted

      ///// Ok--Thanks for that info--I could not find yesterday when I looked for the specs on that NAPA filter what I wanted. Their website is not very user friendly. I buy all teh filters for  our three vehicles once or twice a year. Have always run NAPA Gold on everything I own....I buy it thru my Son's account for his business-which he has a Heavy Equipment repair shop-one reason he uses NAPA so much-they have such a full line of coverage for just about anything/anywhere- He gets s  good discount because of volume bought. Anyway-Thank you -Sir for your response.   glenn
    • PhilB
      No 12v outlets in 2026 gmc Sierra

      By PhilB · Posted

      It is possible to add your own 12v outlet to your truck.  Check out this video:   I verified via GM Upfitters that pin 31 is the same on the 1500 trucks.  The wire is GM part number 84779405.   You can get the GM 12v outlet from Amazon  https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Accessory-Receptacle-25774623-13549530/dp/B0F1H9YRGF EWAY 12 Volt Power Adapter for GM   https://www.amazon.com/EWAY-Chevrolet-Silverado-Cigarette-Ignition/dp/B0915RRW6Q/ref=sr_1_1?   I just haven't figured out a good place to put the 12v outlet in my truck.   Some people are getting USB-C to 12V adapters  https://www.amazon.com/WYMECT-Cigarette-Lighter-Socket-Adapter/dp/B0F87WNQKB/ref=sr_1_1_sspa? Not sure if they provide the correct amperage that a device like a tire inflator would need.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...