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2.5" Class V Ball Mount?

Raven

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Raven Enthusiast

Raven

Posted
Posted

I'm going to tow my son's high dollar Mustang Cobra on a car trailer from Alabama to Ohio next week with my '08 Silverado 2500HD. The truck (6.0 gas/6spd auto) has the 2.5" Class V receiver tube on it (and the factory included reducer to drop it to 2" square ID) and I'm wondering if I need to buy a new ball mount or not.

 

I currently have a 6000 GTW/600lb TW 2" square ball mount with the appropriate 2" ball for the trailer but given that the car weighs almost 3500 lbs and the trailer ~2000 lbs, I don't want to stretch my luck. I have used this current ball mount on my previous truck but now this truck has the bigger tube.

 

So, I'm shopping for a new ball mount.

 

Do I need the bigger diameter tube that the 2/5" offers? Do you think the 6000lb rated mount I have now is adequate? Is there an issue with using the reducer - does it lower the rated value of whatever ball mount you use it with (which I have heard both ways)?

 

Or, what would you recommend if you do think I need a different one? I'm thinking of something in the 8000-10000 GTW range but there are so many to chooe from, up to nearly 20000 lbs (which I definitely do not need).

 

Also - are the newer ball mounts (such as the Reese Titan) ball mounts hitch specific or would the appropriately sized mount fit in ANY hitch tube?

 

Thanks for the help.

Stewmeistr Enthusiast

Stewmeistr

Posted
Posted

I know very little about trailering, but if you dont' get any replies here I'd go by UHAUL or a local trailer shop and ask them what they think. If not, I'd go bigger and be safe vs always wondering while driving down the road.. think "cheap insurance"...

 

Later,

Rob

Raven Enthusiast

Raven

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I would get a higher rated ball mount - something either 10K or 12K (like this one http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/sto...5143_200325143). The factory hitch is fine for what you are going to be doing. My travel trailer is about 7500#s and I drag it all the time with the factory hitch.

 

Any idea as to how much drop? The trailer is in Alabama so I can't easily get measurements but I was thinking somewhere around a 3-5" drop would be sufficient.

 

Suggestions?

cvandegna Enthusiast

cvandegna

Posted
Posted

Really depends on the trailer and if your truck is lifted. I have a 6" lift and 35" tires -> I run an 8" drop for my flatbed car hauler, and a 2" drop for my travel trailer. I snagged a 10" drop Rapid Hitch like this a while back and it's all I've been running for towing.

 

I'd wait until I got there to be safe - but I used the 2" drop the most before my truck was lifted.

Raven Enthusiast

Raven

Posted
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Really depends on the trailer and if your truck is lifted. I have a 6" lift and 35" tires -> I run an 8" drop for my flatbed car hauler, and a 2" drop for my travel trailer. I snagged a 10" drop Rapid Hitch like this a while back and it's all I've been running for towing.

 

I'd wait until I got there to be safe - but I used the 2" drop the most before my truck was lifted.

 

My truck is bone stock. I have to buy the ball mount ahead of time because I want a particular one. I'm thinking a 2" would be ok but this particular one is available in a 5" as well which seems to me like it may be too much on a stock 4x4.

RonJ Enthusiast

RonJ

Posted
Posted

The way I read this...you have a class V(5) hitch with a 2.5 inch, square reciever, and an insert that reduces the reciever to the standard 2 inches(class IV(4)). A 2 inch reciever(IV) is plenty strong enough. The trailer seems to take a 2 inch ball...The 2 inch ball would be the weak link. 2 inch balls come in different weight ratings...with different size shafts- 3/4 inch to 1 1/4 inch, with weight ratings from 3500 lbs to 10,000 lbs(Northern Tool.com)

 

Have a safe trip.

Raven Enthusiast

Raven

Posted
  • Author
Posted
The way I read this...you have a class V(5) hitch with a 2.5 inch, square reciever, and an insert that reduces the reciever to the standard 2 inches(class IV(4)). A 2 inch reciever(IV) is plenty strong enough. The trailer seems to take a 2 inch ball...The 2 inch ball would be the weak link. 2 inch balls come in different weight ratings...with different size shafts- 3/4 inch to 1 1/4 inch, with weight ratings from 3500 lbs to 10,000 lbs(Northern Tool.com)

 

Have a safe trip.

 

You are correct. I have lined up a new Super Duty Reese 2.5" square hitch that I should have in a day or so and am getting a 10k ball for it. I don't recall what the ball rating is I have now but I'm pretty sure it is 6k. I do know it has a 1" shaft.

 

My new one will have a 1.25" shaft to match the hole. The ball mount I am fairly sure I will be buying is a Reese Tow Beast 18k/2k rated forged piece for less than $50 plus shipping. I know it is severe overkill rating-wise for this particular tow but who knows what might pop up down the road.

old dog Enthusiast

old dog

Posted
Posted
The way I read this...you have a class V(5) hitch with a 2.5 inch, square reciever, and an insert that reduces the reciever to the standard 2 inches(class IV(4)). A 2 inch reciever(IV) is plenty strong enough. The trailer seems to take a 2 inch ball...The 2 inch ball would be the weak link. 2 inch balls come in different weight ratings...with different size shafts- 3/4 inch to 1 1/4 inch, with weight ratings from 3500 lbs to 10,000 lbs(Northern Tool.com)

 

Have a safe trip.

 

You are correct. I have lined up a new Super Duty Reese 2.5" square hitch that I should have in a day or so and am getting a 10k ball for it. I don't recall what the ball rating is I have now but I'm pretty sure it is 6k. I do know it has a 1" shaft.

 

My new one will have a 1.25" shaft to match the hole. The ball mount I am fairly sure I will be buying is a Reese Tow Beast 18k/2k rated forged piece for less than $50 plus shipping. I know it is severe overkill rating-wise for this particular tow but who knows what might pop up down the road.

 

 

are you running weight distributing hitch and bars for that rig i would run them for sure ,they help with control of the trailer and evening out the weight on the trailer and truck . you will get at least 10,000 lbs capacity .when it comes down to it it's as strong as the weakest link .

cvandegna Enthusiast

cvandegna

Posted
Posted

Guys - this is a bit ridiculous to tow what is in fact going to be just over 5000 #s isn't it? The car trailer you are going to be using I doubt is 2000 #s. I put 16 gauge diamond plate on mine to replace the wood, and it is still only 1600#s. Buy the new ball mount, with the right shaft ball and be done with it. Something rated at 10K will be fine. You will be less than 60% of the ratings on any of your towing equipment.

 

Spend the money replacing the wimpy factory tranny cooler - it will serve you better.

Raven Enthusiast

Raven

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Guys - this is a bit ridiculous to tow what is in fact going to be just over 5000 #s isn't it? The car trailer you are going to be using I doubt is 2000 #s. I put 16 gauge diamond plate on mine to replace the wood, and it is still only 1600#s. Buy the new ball mount, with the right shaft ball and be done with it. Something rated at 10K will be fine. You will be less than 60% of the ratings on any of your towing equipment.

 

Spend the money replacing the wimpy factory tranny cooler - it will serve you better.

 

Good advice. I'm buying the ball mount and appropriate ball and that should do fine for this job. I only want the additional 'insurance' since I'm towing this car over 600 miles.

Griptruk Enthusiast

Griptruk

Posted
Posted

I think since you can't see the trailer till you get there an adjustable hitch would be key, it is very important that a tandem axle trailer sits level.

 

This is more important than sway control or Weight distributing accessories for a trailer of this size, in my opinion.

 

A level trailer and properly loaded trailer of this size should not have problems, and should be within the capacity of your truck as long as it is not loaded with lots of other heavy stuff.

-Jer

cvandegna Enthusiast

cvandegna

Posted
Posted
I think since you can't see the trailer till you get there an adjustable hitch would be key, it is very important that a tandem axle trailer sits level.

 

This is more important than sway control or Weight distributing accessories for a trailer of this size, in my opinion.

I agree with Griptruk - un-level tandem is the best way to smoke trailer bearings, not to mention since it's normally too high in front - overload the tongue weight on the TV.

ScottyBoy Enthusiast

ScottyBoy

Posted
Posted

I just towed a 96 blazer on a tandem axle Uhaul trailer about a month or so ago. Towed it about 300 or so miles with no issues. I was towing with my 01 Suburban, 5.3 with class 4 factory hitch. I have a reese 2 inch drop reciver w/ 2 inch ball rated for 10,000 lbs. I estimate the weight of the trailer and blazer combined to be around 6-7000 lbs. I think you should be more than fine with your drivetrain and hitch. Just get a 2inch ball rated for about 10,000lbs.

Griptruk Enthusiast

Griptruk

Posted
Posted

I would add that it would be my guess that a 2inch drop would not be enough for a 2500, I know it's not for mine, but that's my trailer, so you never know. a 2" was just about right for my gmt 400 Tahoe, and that sat a hell of a lot lower than my 2500 does. so I have to imagine i'll be in the 5 to 8 range with this truck.

 

-Jer

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