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When I bought my 14 GMC I turned it off with an handheld programmer. With my 16 Odyssey I left it on solely because I didn’t have much money in the vehicle. There’s a device to turn it off that’s a little more involved. The GMC at 72 MPH the deactivation was on very little the deference was 1/2 mile per gallon. The Odyssey is on over half the time at 72 mph.

Anyone ever thought about switching the interior door panels from the base model to the Denali style? I’ve seen that you basically have to cut, sand, mold, paint, the window switches together to get the look right. Is that the main reason people don’t bother doing the swap? Seems like the only method that is easy I guess, without having to mess around with wiring and stuff.

Replace the fuel pump with an OEM AC-Delco.

Hello, first time posting here. I have an 03 Chevy 1500HD with the 6 liter gas engine. The truck ran fine until the fuel pump died on me and had to get it towed. Replaced the fuel pump with a precision pump from O’rileys and changed the fuel filter while I was there. The truck will run and drive now but it wants to idle around 500 rpm when in drive and it tries to stall if you touch the gas. It drives fine though, just doesn’t want to idle. Put a fuel pressure gauge on the rail and only have 50 psi. I guess these trucks should have 55-62 psi to run right. I thought the regulator might be the issue because when I would unplug the vacuum hose it jumped to 56 psi. Replaced the regulator and no change. The only thing I can think of is that I was sold a faulty fuel pump. Any help would be appreciated because I’d rather not have to take the bed off again if I don’t have too. Thank you!

I've been wrenching on GM trucks for 17 years. And I need to get something off my chest because it's been weighing on me for a long time. After all that time, all those motors, all those people standing in my bay, I've figured out there are really only two kinds of owners. The ones who already know about this. And the ones who are about to find out the hard way. A guy came into my shop a few weeks back in a 2018 Silverado 5.3. Sharp guy, maybe 35. Knew his truck cold. He'd been on the forums, read the threads, done his homework. He only rolled in so I could double-check a little module he'd already plugged in himself. Wanted a second set of eyes on it. Ten minutes, in and out, drove off happy. Two days later, a completely different story walked through the same door. Older fella this time, in a 2016 Sierra. Gorgeous truck, clearly babied, not a scratch on it. Wedding ring. Looked like a guy who took care of his stuff. He was in because his engine had started knocking on the way to work. And by the time I got the valve cover off, I already knew it was too late. Lifter collapsed. Cylinder 5. Camshaft chewed up. The whole top end shot. Same kind of truck. Same motor. Same roads, probably the same dealer. The only thing separating those two men was information. I've been at this since 2008, and I've worked on everything GM puts out. Silverados. Sierras. Tahoes. Yukons. Suburbans. Escalades. The 5.3 and the 6.2. Doesn't matter which badge is on the tailgate. They all carry the same problem. So here's the information one of those guys had and the other one didn't. It's called Active Fuel Management. AFM. GM started building it into their V6s and V8s back in 2007 to squeeze out a little better mileage on the highway. Maybe a mile or two a gallon. All to hit government fuel economy numbers. The way it works, the motor quietly shuts down half its cylinders when you're just cruising along. And the little lifters that pull that off have a tiny pin inside them that's constantly clicking in and out. Lock, unlock, lock, unlock. Hundreds of times a drive. Thousands of times a week. Eventually one of those pins wears through. The lifter drops. And it starts grinding the camshaft down like a chisel on butter. And what nobody tells you is that the shudder you feel around 40 or 50 mph? That's the system cycling. Every single time. Here's what really gets me. The pre-2007 trucks, the ones without AFM, they're bulletproof. I've got customers still daily driving them with 260,000 miles on the odometer. Not a problem in the world. GM took a perfectly good motor that would have lasted a lifetime and bolted this system onto it. And it is wrecking engines that should have run forever. The guys who hang around the forums already know all of this. So do the techs. They handled this years ago. They didn't sit around waiting for the dealership to mail them a warning letter, because that letter is never coming. It's the guys who figured somebody would've told them who end up on my lift. And I want to be clear, because this part matters. Maintenance has nothing to do with it. I've torn down motors with barely 30,000 miles on the clock. I pulled apart a Tahoe last summer with 24,000 on it. Practically a brand new truck. Owner had it less than a year. Spotless oil. Best synthetic money can buy, changed early every time. Made no difference. I've seen guys with full dealer records, every interval stamped. Made no difference. The oil changes were never the problem. The pin was. And no amount of babying that truck stops that pin from cycling every single time you drive. That's the part that eats at me. These are good motors. Take the AFM out of the equation and a 5.3 or a 6.2 will run 300,000 miles and never blink. So a few years ago I started telling every single owner who comes through my doors the exact same thing the smart guys already knew. Get yourself a FullForce disabler. It plugs right into the port under your dash. Couple of seconds and you're done. It just tells the computer to leave every cylinder running, full time. No more cycling. No more beating those lifters back and forth every time you turn the key. It doesn't reprogram anything. Doesn't touch your tune. And unplug it before a dealer visit and there's absolutely zero trace it was ever installed. I've had customers come back at 40,000, 60,000, 80,000 miles after I put one in. Zero issues. The trucks run smoother. And the lifters aren't getting beaten to death every single drive. I won't sit here and tell you it's magic. A lifter that's already damaged is a lifter that's already damaged, and this won't un-ring that bell. But it takes away the one thing causing all that wear in the first place. That's the whole game. You don't need a five-thousand-dollar delete. You don't need an expensive tune. You don't need to tear anything apart. You just need to stop the cycling. I'm not writing this for any company. I'm writing it because I'm tired of watching the guys who didn't know pay four and five figures for it. I'm tired of being the guy who has to break the news. I'm tired of knowing that the guys who did know fixed the whole thing for the price of a tank of gas, and the only difference was that somebody told them first. If you drive a Silverado, Sierra, Tahoe, Yukon, Suburban, or Escalade from 2007 or newer with a V6 or V8, you've got AFM. You've got those lifters, and they're cycling every single time you drive. So be the guy who already knew. Not the one I'm scraping metal out of next month. EDIT: A bunch of folks asked, so here it is. The one I put my faith in is FullForce. This is where to find it: https://www.tryfullforce.com/products/fullforce™-afm-dfm-disabler They back it with a 60-day guarantee too. I've handed out more than I can count and not one's ever come back to me. Not one. See less

Thanks for following along. I'm not author material, my tenses are all over the place and an editor would have a heck of a time cleaning up after me. Reading and writing is still a fun pastime though. My new scanner came in yesterday, wow, where the heck has this thing been?! It connects right up to the Blazer, there's all kinds of bidirectional tests like EGR activation and percentage, toggle the fuel pump relay, EVAP purge valve, IAC control, AC relay, reset the transmission's adaptive learning, toggle shift solenoids and TCC lockup, and I can reset fuel trims with the click of a button...all things I could have used over the last 60 days! It's also telling me there is a stored code in the ABS module for front left wheel sensor open and something about the brake switch. The ABS dash light works. It illuminates normally during the self-test at key on/ start and that's it. I cleared the codes and will see if they set when I take it out later. That, and I'm going to get (hopefully) real data on timing and cam ******. The PID's are there. I connected the tool to my truck...holy smokes. Newer vehicles make early OBDII vehicles look like 8-bit, pixelated, early Nintendo stuff. This? This is like wearing 3D virtual reality goggles playing one of those elaborate, cinematic video games with seasons and plots in comparison. There are SO MANY modules and SO MANY tests and SO MUCH data. There's a scanner sequence for filling the coolant... End of the day, it's a tool with way more power than I need, but the versatility to do old and new is there (and I need an adapter to connect it to my OBDI Camaro). It will allow me to do the first pass of diagnosis when out-of-warranty vehicles need help, and it will enable more DIY maintenance like brake system bleeding, ABS bleed, etc. I probably over-bought here, but, mission is accomplished. Enjoy your Sunday...I need to shut this machine down and go get ready for the week ahead.

Not that I've read, after all the issues they've had in the past I'm pretty sure they learned their lesson.

Wonder how these would ride compared to the stock Ranchos on a 2026.

The C05B0 indicates a leak in the front circuit (which is bone dry), where did the fluid go

Oh my goodness I forgot one. And you can guess why. Olds cutlass diesel station wagon. I was constantly working on it. Very low mileage and very nice. I gave it to my brother and he converted it to gas.

what are the codes, might be easier to fix than rewire

I don't have any pics of my '78 Cutlass on the computer - they were REAL pictures ... with film! Long before this computer crap took over everything, and made everything a PITA! I wasn't a fan of the downsizing done in '78. I never liked the look of it, but the kid who built it made it look mint, at least compared to the heaps I normally drove back then. Heavy orange peeled black paint (good from 20'), Corvette Ralleyes with raised whites, and they peeled the vinyl top off and painted that. Loved those Ralleyes!! Looked so nice! It had a Goodwrench 350 and a BUILT TH400 that barked the tires nicely! Kid built it totally wrong for the street, though. Everything he put in or on the engine was for the drag strip! Holley Dominator Strip intake manifold, Crane 292H came that barely idled ... and on a stock converter! Thing used to start creeping at lights with both feet on the pedal. Would empty that vacuum canister in no time flat! Everyone thought I was doing it on purpose, so EVERYONE had to race me at every light, HAHAHA! I'd get smoked off the line by a Ford Escort ... but once it hit 3,000 RPM, HANG ON! It ripped! Was like a 2-stroke motocrosser powerband. Also had gray Fiero bucket seats in the all black interior, and custom dual exhaust that I ended up throwing a set of Dynomax Super Turbos on. MAN did that thing sound SWEEET! I have a VHS tape of me drag racing some kid at night. Can't see crap, but you can hear me!

First you have to figure out how you want it to work, either automatically in conjunctionn with something else, or just manually with a switch or what.

charm.li (website) has GM's diagnostic procedures for each of those codes. GM recommends working them one at a time, lowest number up.

Those are the exact numbers I have researched for a stock height trucks. Those Amazon prices beat RockAuto...very surprised.

Well that book won't sell many copies. Taking ones right foot off the loud pedal never gets applause. Funny really, It isn't that people don't know what to do...they just don't want to do it. But they will complain about it. About bad craftsmanship, about the cost of fuel, about the cost of part and repairs and mainly they complain that the solution while still possible isn't one they are willing to do. I observe this daily. 'Gas cost to much!", they wail, while they mat it passing at 80+ mpg and scoot down the road like gas cost a dime a gallon. Then complain about the few that will lift and save both fuel and iron like they are owed and own the road. Good thing they haven't an ounce of influence on my equipment. The rest I just laugh at. Stupid is as stupid does, right Forest?

Today I filled up with 4.899 gallons of fuel at a cost of $4.899 a gallon. $24 bucks. 290 miles. 59.2 mpg. After my 4% COSTCO discount just under eight cents a mile.

Howdy folks, Recently I pulled a heated steering wheel and clock spring out of a 2015 Sierra All Terrain (part numbers coming soon - will have to disassemble), and just installed it on my 2016 Sierra WT (as base model as it gets). On install, I noticed that I’m missing the connector often tucked behind the dash for the heating element. No problem… or so I thought. I used an “Add-A-Fuse” at my heated steering wheel fuse location, which has voltage, but no wires. I ran it to the positive of the heated steering wheel (Violet/White), and took black to ground. Hooked up the battery, turned the truck on - no heated steering wheel. No button backlights. Was pleased to see that my cruise control was working though. Read a post suggesting reversing polarity, so I gave it a shot. Violet and White to ground, Black to power. Aha! Heat! But I seemingly can’t turn it off AND still no backlights on any of the buttons. Checked all fuses, everything is still in good order. I’m stumped. Does anyone have any insight? If so, please share!

I'm about 1800 miles into my last oil change, and yesterday a message appeared saying oil life was at 77%. Not sure why it popped up but I think all of these electronics could be susceptible to solar flares or somesuch. I change my oil right at 3K each time, and that was the first time in 10870 miles that message came up. Strange thing is that it showed on the screen at all since I don't drive with that sort of info displayed on the DIC.

I’m praying that someone sees this and can help me out… pulled a heated steering wheel and clock spring out of a 2015 Sierra All Terrain, and just installed it on my 2016 Sierra WT (as base model as it gets). On install, I noticed that I’m missing the connector often tucked behind the dash. No problem… or so I thought. I used an “Add-A-Fuse” at my heated steering wheel fuse location, which has voltage, but no wires. I ran it to the positive of the heated steering wheel (Violet/White), and took black to ground. Hooked up the battery, turned the truck on - no heated steering wheel. No button backlights. Was pleased to see that my cruise control was working though. Read a post suggesting reversing polarity, so I gave it a shot. Violet and White to ground, Black to power. Aha! Heat! But can’t turn it off AND still no backlights. Checked all fuses, everything is still in good order. I’m stumped. Does anyone have any insight? If so, please share!

Checked the pads today and there's plenty of meat on them. If the message keeps coming up, I'll just answer YES that the pads were replaced and wait for the squeal.

Welcome to the Forum! Always post the code definitions along with the codes. there are over 18000 possible codes, no one remembers them all and most will skip over your post rather than look them up

Not in my 2021. It's either on or off. There is no selecting front or rear. My scanner says something like implausible value for the rear monitor. I just disabled monitoring and keep driving it. There's physical metal squealer tabs on the pads for a reason. That's how people always knew when to change the brake pads or ignore them until the vehicle wouldn't stop anymore!

Are those part numbers for a stock height truck? Thanks for posting the video.

I have pictures of the 66, the starfire maybe the 72. I can’t say too much. We have lots of pictures of the first born. Not many of the second. Lots of the third my name sake. Mainly because of sports.