TJay74

I have ran E85 for years now, zero issues. i work on my own stuff as well, zero issues. I was against the forced Ethanol for many years, was never interested in the E85 stuff at all. I had my 14 Sierra AT 6.2 / A6 and never looked at Ethanol, replaced it with my 16 Sierra AT 6.2 / A8 and still didnt mess with it. Then I added my 17 Camaro SS 1LE to the stable and went thru the mods on it. Ended up at 431rwhp with headers, CAI and a ported IM/TB combo. Car was very fun to drive. Then I spent some time really reading up about E85 and the pro's/con's to it. I did the same thing many years ago in regards to octane, how it works, the combustion process in regards to the flame front and detonation. I applied that knowledge to the E85 fuel and learned I was wasting a huge resource by not using it. That Camaro SS that was putting down 431rwhp jumped to almost 460rwhp with just the change over to E85 and the tuning. Car went from being run to a nice stout DD. Then I added a Procharger D1SC and went from 460rwhp to 650rwhp. The pro's of E85 on a modern vehicle far outweigh and con's. I am in OKC, we are humid as well, not Houston humid but we do have year round humidity. Zero issues with E85 at all, as long as you dont park the car with an empty tank for a year you will be fine. As said the fuel system is sealed, the gas station fuel systems are sealed as well and have to use a specific vent system. It isnt like the E85 is sitting outside in the open air with constant air circulation. The humidity (water) in the air isnt sitting there and just puddling up and adding ounces or gallons to the E85 at all. JumpinJoe if you want to hate E85 because the .Gov forced it on us then by all means do so, once you learn about E85 and move past the .Gov issues from 20-30 years ago in regards to how E85 was implemented you will find out that E85 is an awesome fuel source and has tons of advantages. -it burns cooler than gasoline -it produces less carbon soot, the piston tops and combustion chamber stays cleaner, the exhaust tip stays cleaner -it has a 105 octane rating. -it allows way more timing which is where most of the HP increase comes from -it is cheaper than gasoline, especially in the 6.2l trucks where 91/93 are required to be run in them. City driving/interstate driving it is dang near almost a wash The only con is it takes an extra 30% more fuel, depending on the mods it may require the in-tank LPFP from the ZL1 Camaro along with the HPFP and the injectors if you push the mods. The nice thing about E85 is at roughly E50 you have gained about 75% of the HP you will gain from swapping over to it. I got to 455rwhp in my Camaro at E50, once I got to over E80 I only found another 5rwhp when I was N/A. Now that I am supercharged on the Camaro it is the difference in me making 600rwhp on 91 or 650rwhp on E50. The GM trucks are already prone to detonation, the 5.3 and 6.2 trucks have shown this since the new platform came out in 2014. The 6.2l shoudnt run anything less than 91 and neither should the 5.3l trucks. The OEM tune in all of GM vehicles is already setup for E10, so you can literally run 91 octane and then 10% of E85 with zero issues, I have ran E20 with zero issues in our other car which is a 2016 Audi SQ5 that has a 3.0l supercharged V6. It was rated at 355hp from the factory, I have it tuned with a pulley and all the normal bolt on mods and it is near 475hp now. I am getting ready to do the last round of mods next year with a new intercooler and the second pulley update and it will go to 500hp. I run 91 E15-20 in it during the summer months and that little 4300lb SUV is a little rocket on the stuff. Again hate it if you want, E85 is here to stay as the performance vehicle guys like me love it. My 16 Sierra 6.2 has been on E85 for almost 2 years now, zero issues. I drove from OKC to Dallas last weekend on a full tank of E85 (it was actually E70 due to winter blend from what the Ethanol sensor reported). I ran about 75-80 MPH the entire way and still knocked down almost 18mpg.

The fuel system in the trucks is more than capable of handling E85, even the ECM has all of the parameters in place for E85 but as said there are 2 important parts of the tune turned off that enables those features along with the sensor not being plumbed in. Anything GM made with in the last 5-7 years can handle and run E85 just fine once the sensor is added and the calibration is changed. Zero issues at all. While E85 is Hygroscopic it isnt like it attracts every ounce of moisture instantly. It is an issue that happens over time, more so if the fuel is left just sitting. AS long as you run the fuel out and replace it and even run a full tank of regular ole gasoline thru the system there are zero issues. With the gas tank being 26 gallons in the trucks, you can run up to 5 gallons of E85 with zero issues which is 20%. If you run 4 gallons it puts you at 15%, the extra octane will help with detonation that the DI engines are really prone to during the warmer months of the year.

While adding some E85 up to maybe E20 is ok as the ECM is programmed up to E10 with no issues, running E50 can and will cause some problems up to and including the A/F ratio to be off. AS the E85 percentage climbs the stoichiometric value changes from gas to E85 and actually richens up. If the FF portion of your tune is not enabled (from the factory they are not unless the truck was one that had it as an option, which the 18+ trucks dont have) then the ECM will not change the A/F ration to compensate for the E85. You will be running lean in your case.

Your tech friend is fully wrong in this case. The calibration that GM updates with the GM CAI modifies and changes the MAF scale and corrects the AFR for when the truck is in Open Loop during WOT. The only areas the ECM learns on these systems is the short term and long term fuel trims along with some of the idle airflow qualities. So resetting the ECM does nothing other than to clear the STFT and LTFT tables, the idle tables and if done by pulling the battery the adaptive learning tables for the transmission. GM didnt go thru having to get CARB certifications for their CAI by only resetting the computers.

Until you exceed the max power the OEM turbo can support there is no need to upgrade it. Before I went to replacing the OEM turbo I would be looking for a tune that allows you to increase boost pressure and also re-tune for the increased boost and any other mods you have done.

Again, maybe you should try it before you say it doesnt. I have ran a ported TB on my last 4 GM vehicles, all of them put down more power and had more throttle response from it. Case in point, my 2017 Camaro SS, I added a ported TB and intake manifold and put down almost 25 more RWHP from those two mods alone, with zero tuning. After adding catless headers, RF CAI, the ported Im/TB and E85 and tuned I was putting down 460rwhp on E60 and 435 on 91 octane. Dang near what the vehicle is rated at from the factory with the 455hp rating. Also if a ported TB will work on a supercharged engine depends on the type of supercharger (PD versus centri). I added a Procharger D1SC to the same Camaro and since the Procharger pushes air thru the system any mods to say the TB or IM dont really affect power and or add to power. The PD blowers are a different equation, they can and will see gains from a ported TM, IM or even replacing the manifold with say the MSD Atomic manifold along with any decent CAI systems. I have a 16 Sierra 6.2l / A8 and it has a ported TB on it, made a very noticeable improvement in driveability and picked up some power. You would have to understand how GM programs and uses the TB to see that there are some nice gains to be had going with a ported TB. GM no longer uses a separate idle air control valve or circuit to control the idle, it is all done using the TB now. With that the TB has to be ported carefully as to not mess with the idle circuit part of the TB. This is where Mike over at Soler Performance has done his research. They make a very reputable product and the Camaro guys on the 6th gen page are all reporting strong gains with his TB setup.

Sounds like you dont know what the Solar Performance TB is worth. No tuner can fix what this TB does and if anything the TB is something that should be done in addition with tuning.

Eff that, $2600 is some serious up charge. The injectors are only around $65 each and are not that hard to change. I can have the intake manifold off in less than 30 minutes and the injectors changed out in an hour. The only other thing you might need would be the 2 hard line fuel cross over pipes and the intake manifold gaskets. All in parts should be less than $500 and no more than 3-4 hours of labor. Any shop (mom/pop or dealership) should be more than capable to do this work, I have done it in my garage several times now.

i would file a complaint GM Corporate on that repair, the injectors are part of the engine and thus should be covered under the 5yr / 60k mile powertrain warranty.

Wow this is a complete change from the K2xx trucks as GM wouldnt allow the OEM trailer brake controller to be added after the fact.

In every GM vehicle i have owned, airbags do not deploy in a rear end collision. Your head and back hit the seat back and headrest first, then the seat belt tensioner pulls in the slack, once the body forward motion and momentum starts again the seatbelt stops the forward movement. In this case you typically end up with a case of whiplash to the passengers. Just because the vehicle hit the vehicle in front doesnt deploy the airbags either. Airbag deployment from a front in collision requires a certain forward speed to be met and for the front airbag inertia sensor to trip the airbag deployment. Even though the OP was a standstill and was hit at 80mph and push forward into the vehicle in front of him that doesnt mean his vehicle reached the acceleration and speed needed for the front airbags to deploy. The deployment speed was changed years ago when a lady sued a vehicle manufacture when she hit a curb head on at 5mph and the front airbags deployed, her son or grandson was killed from the front airbag deployment. That is when the manufactures changes the airbag deployment speed to vary depending on the speed of the vehicle, adding to where the airbags wont deploy if the front seat passenger cant trip the seat weight sensor, and changed how fast the vehicle had to be moving for forward for the front airbags to deploy.

How old are you...lol, this is something I would expect my Dad or Grandpa to do to their trucks.

The DI injectors known to fail, as said they are not bad pricewise but they do take some work to get to as the intake manifold has to come off along with some fuel lines that probably be replaced as well.

i just had the flush done at 26k miles for the shudder, my tach did the same thing bouncing slightly when the shudder happened. I may have to email the engineer I dealt with over at GM and see if he can explain some more in detail with what the next fix will be.

I just got my 2016 Sierra 6.2/A8 back from having the flush done. GM is no longer replacing any torque converters until after the beginning of the year when the new fix comes out 2019 Q1.

i would swap the wheels/tires 1st since you have that planned before you swap out the magride system. That truck will ride rough with those 22" wheels even on the normal suspension system.

Angle of the windshield will have no bearing on if the HUD will work, otherwise the cars with it wouldnt work either. What matters is the coating the HUD as to project against so that you can see it.

I would have argued hard with the dealer on this, injectors are part of the engine I think should be covered under the 5yr/60K powertrain warranty. The injector issue isnt anything new, been dgoing on since the new DI engines came out. There are 3 different injectors for the DI engines, I just had one replaced on my 2016 Sierra 6.2 that only had 22k miles on it. Took the dealer about a week to figure it out and get the right injector ordered for the truck.

Yes fr about a week, but 10rwhp isnt going to make a huge change in performance. 30ish RWHP will make a change though, truck feels great now. Been working on my transmission tune for the last week or two. Once the weather cools off the truck is gonna be an even bigger beast.

Part of the issue is the 0w20 oil, that is used for trying to improve the corp fuel mileage numbers and that reason only. Anything the manufactures can do to tweak out some more MPG. Junk that stuff and either run a 0w30 or 5w30 if you are going to tow. Second, the oil pumps in these engines are dual stage. So they have a low and high mode in them as well, again to help with EPA numbers.

I dont believe the trucks support the oil temp feature. I use HPT as well, my truck never shows oil temps but my 2017 Camaro SS does. Same engine in both vehicles.

i would have them reset the code and see what happens, if it comes back it is more than likely a bad injector. I just got my 16 back with the 6.2l last month for the same code. 1 week later and 1 new injector and I was all good to go. Truck only had 22k miles on it at the time.

It will take you longer with the hose clamps then it will with the process I just did. All the hose clamps are doing is limiting the movement of the electric motor where it bolts on. Same thing I did with closing the gap on the motor bracket and adding 1 washer to the bolt.

Ok, based on the above pictures that were shown I fixed mine last night. It literally took me 10 minutes to fix the issue. Push the drivers side seat all the way back and all the way up. There are two up functions on the switch, make sure both the rear and front sections are up. Look by the center console side of the seat on the underside, you will see the motor there that actuates the front of the seat up. It is bolted in a black metal bracket, has a T30 torx bolt holding it in and the bolt is fully seated but has a gap by the head. That is the issue, the gap. You can grab that motor as it is on a rod that goes across the front of the seat and is what rotates the front of the seat up. Grasp the motor and move it side to side, you will hear and feel the "clunk" that is felt when you are turning. Here is the fix, it is stupid easy and simple. You will need some channel lock pliers, a T30 torx bit and a flat washer. Remove the T30 torx bolt and pull it out. You will notice it is a shouldered bolt, only threaded about a 1/4" or so. Now take the pliers and grab the bracket ears and bend them in together slightly. Just enough to take up the gap that allowed the motor to rock side to side. Now with a washer that will slide onto the bolt and down to the head, slide the washer on and then put the motor back into the bracket and slide the bolt/washer back into place and tighten the bolt down. Make sure to not bind the bolt up, check operation of the front height seat motor and make sure it goes up and down properly. Thats it, you have now fixed the seat clunk on the seat. Had mine done for two days now, no more clunk in mine either.

I am up and running, took about 2 tanks of adding E100 to get me over the E80 point. Sadly that was a temp fix as the station with the E100 is too far away to use them regularly. The local station that has E85 on the pump is not consistent, they range from E65 to E85 depending on the time of the year. The last modifier table is at E80, so as long as you are over E80 will be getting the max tune changes possible. Truck is running great, defiantly can tell it has picked up some power with the E85 conversion and the Katech ported throttle body.