Thomcat

Won't steam cleaning with one of the handheld attachments remove the staining? I'd sooner try DIY before letting them try to replace a headliner.

Nothing more than a composite design to reinforce a thin aluminum hood. Wouldn't make much of deflecting a cold airflow supply as an aluminum heat sink sucking up heat from the engine and hot Summer Sun.

Not Virto.....and a Lansing, US build "1" VIN Just got hit with the storm moving up the East coast, lost two shutters but the Silverado is dry inside. Rear window= FUYAO E001488 43R0115130

.02 Weather or not a design defect is debatable....it is designed for it's primary function to get someone's a$$ from point A to B and withstand normally expected useage and cleaning methods and it may well work for the 99-8/10ths percent that have been sold and don't leak. Perhaps a cheap, stupid design with a separate spoiler assembly is responsible, but no designer can account for every variable not under control or reproducable like someone running a carwash that decided to up the average blower output of 200 mph or get more restrictive nozzles upping the output to 300-400 mph to speed up the conveyor or reduce number of wiping staff, double the amount of HF acid in the wash for a faster scrub, etc. Same goes for excessive heat cycling of the rear defroster grid operation like I did on my Avalanche. Could be saving the planet with some new biodegradable sealant that is only susceptible to certain chemicals in commercial or OTC washes........and I doubt that they vigorously test for each possible formulation and pressure test that thin POS spoiler seal well in excess of max. hurricane and tornado wind speed/pressures. It can be done but you don't get Rolls/Ferrari class designing for bottom feeder GM pricing. Same goes for dealer screw-ups in repair work, Mr. Goodwrench ain't working in many dealerships...my dealership has 20+ bays and doesn't just schedule for the first opening, but when there are sufficient particular personnel trained in that area of service, e.g. no problem with a same day State inspection, but had to wait a week for an opening with the correct number of personnel skilled in sunroof replacement.....and they never pulled the windshield to replace a headliner and new sunroof assembly....especially not smart today on vehicles with built-in front cameras. The auto defroster is a different matter.....and I bring that up because I cracked two plastic frames on my '12 Avalanche rear window without realizing the cause....they never leaked because the removable window was fitted with a flexible gasket, but the expansion separated the electrical contact... Mechanic put me wise claiming I was over cycling the built-in 5 minute auto timer by pushing the manual button repeatedly to clear moisture from the rear window (especially on a hot Sunny day) because the front windshield, front door seals, windshield wiper entry points, clogged A/C drain and sunroof seal leaked like crazy & constantly saturated the carpets and the interior of the windows always had moisture on them and constantly had to use the grid in warm weather. Seems too much heat and the glass expands cracking the plastic frame at the weak points.......and the rear window was the one point that never leaked because it was a removable glass with a flex seal on the body (not so the '19) and not sealed with the same (variable locally sourced?) Mexican snot used at the Silao plant for all the other seals. Third window was the charm becuase i stayed off the heating grid, but did trade the leaking SOB for a '13 whose frame never cracked because I limited use of the grid. On the '19s with autodefog on remote start you really have no idea when or how long that grid stays on and weather it overheats to cause a frame or seal failure. Bottom line is $hit happens and they don't come out of the factory that way....something is causing leaks on some and not others.

Nothing published but disregarding actual multiple posts and exaggerating that each one is a unique complaint at about 15/page on each of 130 pages amounts to about 2000 complaints..seems most of US and Canadian owners with leaker complaints do find there way here...and further exaggerating that there are ten unknown complaints for each posted entry gives you a total 20,000 leakers.......compared against a total combined US and Canadian production of Silverados and Sierras of 915,707 units for 2019........gives a defect rate of 2/100s of 1 % not really statistically significant unless you happen to have one. Wouldn't base my selection of a GM truck on anything read in this post. An engineering defect would affect all units; they don't come out of the box as leakers.....something done aftermarket causes it...otherwise they would all leak, and they do not. e.g. Take it to the dealer for a popping noise on the spoiler and they screw with it removing spoiler tightening fasteners, and all of a sudden you have a leak. Have the auto defrost turned on for the rear window grid on a hot day, no thermostat only a timer expand the glass and crack the plastic frame or compromise the sealant. Take it to a carwash and blast with 300 mph air and compromise the sealant on the window or fastener gaskets on the spoiler leaking onto the headliner Take to carwash on a freezing day to get off the salt and water trapped between window and spoiler freezes and cracks the frame at a weak point., etc No automated carwash for me and turned off that auto defog on rear window and after one year of outside storage and numerous thunderstorm it's still dry as a bone.....tired of even checking after each downpour.........and no dealer is going to screw with it either.

Here's my .02....which I have done in the past when vehicles were damaged........works easy when vehicle was an owned cash buy; no sure if not paid off.....take it for what it is worth. Wrecked vehicle at dealer's body shop. Walk into showroom and talk to manager, not salesman, and explain that you have a vehicle awaiting repair in his dealership shop and want to trade against a new vehicle in inventory. You want KBB trade in excellent condition (which it will be in after repair), and offer the insurance check for his body shop's estimate and the balance in cash or refinance for the new vehicle. If accident was deemed other driver's fault you'll get a check later for the deductible to which the dealer is not privy. Dealer will be happy because the price of the check exceeds his repair costs and he gets not only another new car sale out of it, but his used car lot gets a "creampuff" trade with extremely low mileage that will sell for same price as a "demonstrator".......... along with a story that owner traded in because he lost his job, it was too difficult entry for his disabled wife or some other kock and bull story. Might have to eat a few bucks, but better than getting Humpty Dumpty back in a few months if you're lucky.......plus you have a new, undamaged vehicle that you can use immediately. Current vehicle, just sitting there with the hood way open is an invitation to act as a donor vehicle for back ordered parts to repair a "preferred" customer's vehicle (but of course that could never happen).

As I read it you can dinghy tow a 4WD in neutral but can't dolly tow with either a two or four wheel drive with one axle on the ground. Could be because it has nothing to do with rotation of either the tranny or transfer case but the angle of towing. My .02 guess: The output bearings on the axles may depend upon splash lubrication from the oil in the sump....towing front axle up on 2WD or 4WD might oil starve the output bearing on the rear axle, maybe even the wheel bearings. Towing rear axle up on either 2WD or 4WD might screw up the rack and pinion or worse throw vehicle out of control on a turn......I'm assuming this gen. is fly by wire and there is no longer a solid connection between the steering wheel and the wheels on the front axle which is driven by an electric motor integrated into the computer controlled rack (so no more power steering pump either) and no longer way for the tow truck driver to strap the steering wheel or use a locking steering wheel to secure front wheels without possible damage.

Looks like chemical damage as an underlying cause of breakdown and degraded by abrasion. Just a guess.......Use automated or commercial DIY car wash bays? If so maybe concrete dust embedded in the sipes of the tire are reacting with the hydrofluoric acid used in industrial care wash soaps and degrading polymer additives in that particular brand model of tire.

Why would they have to remove the windshield to replace the headliner? That's like trying to pull a tooth by reaching through your rectum. On a Silverado/Sierra or like on my old Avalanches it is done by removing the rear window, not the windshield as has to done with a sedan. And evidently from the recurrent leak the rear window should have been removed for a proper repair and headliner installed through the rear access. And just a thought...a sunroof?.......if so may be a blocked drain tube in the "A" pillar which is where that leak would show up.........pop the threshold trim plate a windshield leak would show up as a soaked jute carpet backing and water in the wiring loom channel underneath.

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I hand wash mine.....no way I'm having some quickie car wash blowing 300 mph air onto that foil thick aluminum roof and also compromise that wafer thin water seal on the spoiler. Push that roof panel in too far in and it may not pop out and paintless repair using a suction cup may leave a permanent crease.

Now that it's getting warmer it's time for more roof popping complaints. Got my first pop today parked in the Sun and another waxing the foil thick aluminum roof. But no way I'm taking to the dealer to screw around and compromise the seal of the rear spoiler for a noise fix....it pops but the rear sliding window doesn't leak and I'm keeping it that way. So, I'll live with it; doesn't affect mileage or driveability............and it's a truck anyway and not a luxury sedan. Not taking a chance letting the dealer screw around trying to take the pop out of my spoiler. Better the devil you know than the one that you don't.........Good news is we got rid of the pop; bad news is now the headliner is staining and the rear window leaks like a sieve.

That's what I did went for one with the SU5 axle and post 3/19 build with the Mobil1 HP factory fill tranny. All the US builds I checked when purchasing had SU5 axles must have something with local sourcing of parts and thus SU4 supplier used for Mexican builds. Same probably goes for dealer sourcing mine had only 1 Mexican build for 32+ US builds in the lot.

Rams 1500s like the GM 1500s which offer an optional eco diesel have the same small 23 gal/Double Cab or 26 gal/ Crew Cab gas tanks as the GM 1500s which also offer an optional diesel. Fords F150s have a larger gas tank because they do not offer an optional diesel so they can stuff a larger gas tank into the space engineering designed for the undercarriage location crash testing has certified to fit a 24 gal gas tank and a 6 gal DEF tank alongside. What's the big deal anyway? Up to 400 miles at 65 mph is 6+ hours of straight driving, so unless you have a bladder larger than your small gas tank you have to stop to fill your gas tank at the same time you empty yours. Could be a generational thing.....The 26 gal. gas tank in my '74 Impala with a 400 C.I.D. that got 7 mpg on a good day was typical for the period and never heard any owners complain that the gas tank was too small.

You could try yanking the cabin air filter to see if it makes a difference.

They'll keep doing it and not just to save curb weight. Smaller tank allows room for the 2nd DEF fuel tank necessary for the 3.0 diesel engine option.......fits neatly in the empty undercarriage space next to the gas tank.

In the past the design of some models used the low beam as the parking light but at greatly reduced power.....if this is the case switching from parking lamp to low beam should brighten the bulb to full output.

Difference to install......easy-peasy!..... just get out your Scan Tool with a MDI, and (SPS-TIS2WEB) and EL-49642 SPS Programming Support Tool, somehow identify the unique access code for programming the SD card and follow the simple instructions for installation: Silverado Navigation.pdf Here's packaging for the $449. SD card installation kit, above instructions have to be printed off by the dealer..

My RST dry as a bone for over a year and been through quite a few gully washers. For my .02 it is not age but some insult vehicle suffered after manufacture that caused the frame to crack or the sealant to lose it's bond. I never take to high pressure air car washes which could compromise a seal. Also turned off the auto defog in the DIC, the grid has no thermostat and if auto turned on on a hot Summer day in 10 mins. glass gets hot enough to soften the sealant or expand enough to crack the surrounding plastic frame.......latter was the #1 cause of cracked frames on Avalanche rear windows. Anyway here's a repost of the TSB Water Leak TSB.pdf

Probably not soft shocks, just the opposite stiff leaf springs, so little travel from the shocks. If bought new give it at least 1K miles before evaluating harshness.....also if large tires like 22s might want to get a road force balance under warranty after about 500 miles. My RST with 22s jumped around like a jackrabbit especially starting out heavy throttle out of a turn and rough on concrete roadways when new. Road Force balance took out a lot of the "hop" and breaking in of the shocks and leaf springs did the rest. After the first 1-2K it behaves like a real cruiser.....'19s handling is more responsive and ride much smoother than my '16 Z71 with all terrain 18s.

One camera, uses software toi change angle of view. It's not a dummy.....it is an LED light and only illuminates when dark with the bed lighting when you use the dash switch......purpose is to light up the tailgate button release.

You can do the same thing with the RST tailgate emblem. Buy a black one, cut (or Dremel with a bur) the heat melt pips on the rear of the chrome one, remove the red RS and 3M tape or glue it on the black one.

Today the wife finally got the message, local Martins has special 6-7 AM hours only for senior food shopping when the store has been cleaned and restocked. Told her a waste of time with 2 stocked refrigerators, freezer chests and 1000 gal of propane sitting in the ground for heating and cooking. But, she insisted she needed milk, bread and eggs. This is a rural area with only 2 positives in the County and at 6AM the half the parking lot was already filled and seniors are running around like crazy, so time for a "U" turn for home......forget the masks, gloves, shopping bags and credit card shopping.......we're going and staying home and she can make bread, use powdered eggs and open up cans of condensed milk.....don't even have to worry about toilet paper shortage with one of those pressurized ass washing toilet bowl seats........and after all the frozen, dry package and canned goods go there is always the canisters of 10 year emergency rations. ......so good until 2021 at the least. Until this situation resolves itself - it's time for sequestering-in-place. Plan on putting my time to good use growing a beard, watching cable and DVDs, and staying out of the wife's way except for eating and conjugal purposes.

Might want to grab and shake the shocks to make sure the bolts and bushings are tight.

IMHO (an old guy starting to use these stupid abbreviations) not gross negligence, maybe just negligence and maybe not that since it doesn't affect all production, possible only a statistically irrelevant, non injury related figure based upon sales vs. failure rate. It's not like it similar logic hasn't been done before. I has a Ford Pinto as a work vehicle and it never blew up.....because nobody hit me in the rear. Well over 4-5 million sold in '69-'75 and engineers and legal knew about the design problem and rolled the dice that it was cheaper to pay off injuries than redesign the car. Quick fix forced by the Government was to put breakaway straps and filler neck on the gas tank....this way the Pinto would no longer explode if rear ended, only the poor bastard that hit your Pinto retrofitted with the Government approved fix and wedged your exploding breakaway tank under his vehicle. What's cheaper..... to redesign a heavier and more expensive rear window, dump all existing stock of replacement windows, contract to have the retrofit manufactured and then recall and retrofit all 19+ rear windows; or, to goop up existing ones that develop a leak with a few hours labor, $15 in sealant and hope for the best? Gooping up the rear window seal appears to be a similar theory for repair as the Pinto etc. but with a much cheaper and safer outcome for GM because even though occurrence may be just as statistically relevant as a Pinto in flames, accidental ignition key shutoff in a Camaro, rear axle break on a Corvette or suspension failure in a Corvair........no one will collect bucks on an injury or death claim for a wet carpet. Mine may just be a theory, but until I see water on the inside instead of the outside, just as good as anything else and that Auto Defog is staying off and I'm limiting manual use and only cold weather.....if interior remains dry, won't need it for defogging in warm weather anyway.