Thomcat

Depends upon how they are making the split bench seats in a particular T1 model line. The K2s with the armrest console also had a pull out locking bin in the base of the 20 center seat and any add on floor console would interfere with opening the bin. I miss the nice large locking bin, but not the bench seat, which is not available with the buckets and center floor console.

If looking for a 5.3l get a DFM with 8 speed with a door sticker manufacturing date 3/19 or later. The later ones come prefilled with the replacement Mobil1 HP synthetic ATF fluid. There is a TSB out there for shudder problems calling for complete replacement of the older Dextron VI AFT fluid because it was hydroscopic. The dealer will not replace propholactically under warranty, only once shifting problems are encountered. At that point it may be too late if tranny has already suffered irreversible damage or wear from contaminated fluid.. https://gm-techlink.com/?p=11127

.02 If the problem was collapsed lifters and they were replaced and the noise still exists - two possibilities: either they didn't replace them; or they did replace them but they did not fix the underlying cause that causes the lifters to collapse. Unlike some '19 V8s and prior AFM engines which use a LOMA manifold to determine when and which lifters collapse to deactivate a cylinder; all the '20 6.2s are DFM engines which do not use the LOMA manifold but instead individual solenoids to control oil flow to the lifters to activate/deactivate a cylinder. Failure of the ECM to trigger the oil solenoid will starve a lifter of oil and it will collapse. .....so even if the lifters are good they will collapse without an oil flow. And the odds of simultaneous failure of multiple lifters on only one bank seem great......but lack of oil flow due to a blocked oil gallery or electrical feed problems to the solenoids in one bank can oil starve the lifters and give the same results, i.e. a good lifter without an oil supply will collapse. It appears, further diagnosis is necessary with the electrical and hydraulic systems before you can properly diagnose an infant mortality multi lifter failure. And failure to fix the problem after replacement with all new lifters leads one to believe that the problem ain't with the lifters..

"Acid rain spots" could simply be hard water deposits from a hand wash with untreated local water that was not wiped off and "water spotted" the glass. Acid rain will etch glass, hard water deposits are on the surface and can be more easily removed with a bit of glass polish or clear coat scratch remover as opposed to Windex type window cleaners. I doubt yellow paint means anything other than a sale marking from the dealer.

The only Chevy shipped with a smaller oil filter that requires replacement with a larger filter is the Traverse.The shorter filter has less filter media than the larger replacement but the same specs for the bypass valve. And the ONLY reason the shorter filter is shipped stock on the Traverse is to provide clearance during assembly and shoehorn the V6 drive train assembly into the engine compartment. Attached photo shows the factory PF48 filter labeled as replace with PF63 next to the replacement PF63.....evidently no problem in substituting a PF63 in place of a PF48 if there is sufficient clearance for the install.

Really........only 3/4" on a mass produced truck? Forget how it looks, what is important is geometry. It's not the distance from fender to tire it is same measurement from the edge of the leaf spring or the shackle to each wheel hub that determines if the rear axle is centralized. And then the wheels on the rear axle must be aligned with the wheels on the front axle otherwise the vehicle will "crab" down the road. Quick and dirty test is to drive straight ahead on a wet surface and observe the tracks left by the vehicle - they must be one tire wide, i.e. the rears exactly overlap the fronts. If wider the axles are not aligned, vehicle is crabbing and front and/or rear axle adjustment and front wheel alignment is required. If axles are aligned but it still "looks" off, you don't shift the axle, you shift the bed and split the difference 3/8" so it "looks" better and live with it......really 3/4" on a Chevy????

There's lazy and then there's foolish. Three minutes to pull a wheel, yeah maybe if you use the suction method, but no removing tires. Wouldn't take 3 minutes with the car is already 4 feet off the ground on a hydraulic lift, compressor is charged and you have a decent air wrench. Then you only have to remove and reinstall 400 lbs+ of tires on wheels. Been there, done that using the plastic melt/ dent puller method above when replacing my Camaro and Traverse hubs. This does take only 3 minutes once the glue gun is heated. Difference is between 5 minutes pulling all three against raising the vehicle and hours using a floor jack method and still jockeying around 100 lb 22"s to align the hubs..not to mention a dirty job and a real pain in the a$$ even with multiple hydraulics resting the tire on the ground and raising or lowering to align the hub.

Probably has to do with the free month of programming until May 31st. Likely requires changing channels to sign in the radio code so they can identify free users to blast out crap literature offering a 6 month bargain rate for new customers.

My early 2018's have the free 5 year coverage.....2019 only 3 months. Factory Nav, 200+ albums on USB chips and Bluetooth and inductive charger for cell phone so I don''t need OnStar or a USB connection cord either. But I do have a basic connection OnStar plan for $5/mo./vehicle for use of the vehicle cell phone when I leave mine home'' Somewhere (on this board?) I read that you can add the cell phone in the vehicle under your AT&T (maybe others) cell phone carriers as an additional phone with the same unlimited calling and WIFI plan.....mentioned a pass through had to be linked by OnStar, but there was no additional charge for this service

Ride should be fine provided you don't choose a size where the tire will rub in the wheel well, or a wheel with an offset that will contact the brake caliper.. Speedometer would be inaccurate; odometer would be inaccurate which if just under the max mileage for warranty expiration, e.g 35/49K miles would be basis for denying the claim; OLM would be inaccurate. Part of the dealer install of the 22's was to recalibrate the ECM for the 275/R22 50s - dead on when using highway mile markers and roadside radar speed warning signs.

I have an RST with optional 22" wheels and Bridgestone Alenzas with stock shocks and springs. Rear axle would hop on bumps, especially hard acceleration from a stop into a turn and had a vibration at 55-60. Had to be the lighter bed because 100 lbs over each wheel in the bed calmed it right down. Once the standard shocks wore in and tires were seated at about 1000 miles took it for a road force balance at the dealer. It cured almost all of the problem the balance without the added weights disappearing by 4K miles. Now at the point where the ride is at least as good if not better than my '16 Z71 18's with more aggressive Wranglers, and stability and handling of the T1 with the 22's even at 70 mph is much much better than was my K2..

Seems basic and may not work but worth a try......had the camera go out on my '16 and it worked for me. Try pulling the RDO fuse for about a minute and replace to force a hard boot on the radio head and attached modules.

Early AFM systems developed oil burning problems caused by the discharge oil spray in the sump on nearby cylinders clogging the oil rings.In addition there were problems with the collapsible lifters of time oil problems at 60K+ and lifters at around 100K miles. Solenoids were never the problem, in fact the LOMA manifold with its own screen clogging problems, exclusive to AFM engines also uses them for the 4 AFM cylinders. Post 1/11 AFM production has addressed these problems with modified valve cover, modified PCV system, baffle over the AFM oil discharge valve, and a new gen of collapsible lifters less prone to damage caused dirty oil. Later volume increase of 5.3l sump capacity from 6 to 8 qts has also helped to extend oil life. Here's my .02 opinion, take it for what it is worth. Had AFMs on my 3 Avalanches and '16 Silverado and by comparison the DFM system is totally seamless. I used the Range device in my '07 Avalanche because it had the early system with valve cover, lifter, PCV and AFM discharge problems. Never used it on the later ones nor will I use one on the '19 DFM because as far as I'm concerned there is no long term data on the new DFM system, talking years not accelerated studies, on use of a defeat device vs. use without one. Got to figure it has to be pulled periodically whenever car is taken for service, State inspections, grabbing codes for the EL, etc. Dealer spots it and no more electrical warranty. The AFM and DFM engines are designed for operation on a varying number of cylinders and the solenoids along with the collapsible lifters are designed to flex thousand of times during each drive cycle. So I'd like to know what the effects would be of keeping the oil control solenoids idle or maybe worse open under constant voltage for an extended period....heat buildup?, varnish deposits inside tappets?....and what happens to collapsible lifters that remain in the one position for very long periods when the device is removed for inspection or service and they expand/collapse and jamb with accumulated varnish buildup in a static area? And what of variability of vehicle builds and that any particular gizmo will play friendly with each and every module programming in your particular vehicle as equipped ?. I don't know and I don't think GM knows either since a DFM engine is barely 2 years old plus was not designed for usage in that manner......but I don't have to because system works just fine as is, plenty of pep and seamless operation.......and it makes no sense to fix something that isn't broken.

I have though that the speed limiter setting is a safety concern and set based upon the performance specs of the stock tires.

My '07 and '12 Avalanche wasn't so lucky and you can tell if you will have that problem. Look very closely at the surface of the sticker.....ones that cause problems are very thin...whether caused by heat welding brittleness with age or chemical bonding over time..removal will be just as difficult. Perfectly smooth, no problemo, but if the surface of the sticker is slightly matte finish bearing faint traces of the surface pattern of the fabric underneath you are better off not wasting your time and just buy a coverup sticker......you will have to do it anyway because it will look like crap after removal. If you can't start peeling off easily starting a one corner, don't keep going and make a mess.

Won't work on the visor stickers.....they are heat welded into the fabric. Even if you take hours carefully chipping, soaking and removing piece by piece the plastic based fabric underneath has a "melted " shadow which looks much worse. Try it and you're gonna regret it! Way to go is with a coverup sticker, custom made with logo or lettering https://www.streamlinedesign.com/store/p146/Custom_Visor_Graphics_-_GM_-_PAIR.html

Thanks, can save about $50.

You've got to hit the camera icon (transfer it the main screen for ease of use) before you hit the dash button to drop the gate.....more than once saved me from getting too close and dropping tha gate against a pole, sign or edge of a loading dock.

Condition of this hat looks like it just completed dealer prep.

Using it for decoration only. Don't need a camera, simply use the voice command system: "Honey, get out and see if I've pulled up far enough". They call it a nudge bar instead of a push bar for a reason. I have every confidence it will crush just as easily as the rest of the front end, providing about as much protection as putting your hand in front of your nose to protect against a punch in the face.

no....no front parking sensors on front bumper.

Looks like I'm going for this one.....worth the extra bucks for three reasons: looks good and hollow Silverado lettering like the sports bar can be accented with a colored strip to match body color, no front license plate requirement in my State to mess up the front look, and major reason is that it mounts like others on the tow hooks bracket, but unlike the rest allows you can also keep your existing tow hooks (which came in handy more than once for dragging downed trees from road). Going for a close price match from dealer, more than the usual 10%, because I'll save on expensive shipping costs.

Timing and incentives are everything....almost a year ago a $56.5 K'19 RST for $42K. The 3.23 rear with the 8 speed and 5.3l DFM running 33", 375 50R22 has a more lower end pickup that my '16 LTZ71 3.42 rear with 6 speed 5.3l AFM running stock 18"s. Had Z71 in my '12 and '13 Avalanche and '16 Silverado.....didn't want a Z this time and don't miss it. ......same bucks better spent on the HD cameras, HD monitor and Bose with upscale IOS HD radio in the Convenience II package. As far as not bothering with a Z71 option this time.....no real advantage for me. The Z71 is not a real dual exhaust using separate exhaust pipe systems from each V8 manifold, but like my V6 Traverse instead uses a "Y" engine pipe feeding a single a single exhaust system, split by a "Y" tailpipe into two stub finishers.....looks pretty but doesn't do anything to open up exhaust flow, thus no changes in engine spec. . Your All Star edition is already equipped with the same E80 Eaton locking rear in the Z71 package. The stock Rancho shocks are bottom line Bielsteins not better than stock shocks which will give a softer ride with larger wheels.....actually the softer shocks with the stiff rear leafs and lighter bed give less bounce on a peel out from a turn than the stiffer Ranchos. Unless you plan to use as a mudder you won't need a two speed transfer case, the RST's come with an Offroad button in place of the 4 Low button which electronically simulates the speed of the wheels in 4 Low, but with less torque. Does lack the (plastic?) skid plates and hill decent control which will kick in and hold a gear with constant pressure on the brake for about half a mile - I always found it easier to shift to Low when trailering downhill. And of course it will have Silverado instead of Z71 fender badges.

More than looks good, looks great! Certainly not the cheapest and wouldn't be my first choice if purchased solely for off road use. But I may get one and this one would be it solely for the appearance factor. Not planning to go off road so this one would be worth the extra bucks, if for nothing else it is an excellent contrast match for a painted RST front and perfect match in color, finish and recessed logo for the OEM sports bar.

.02 You can pop in the roof with slight pressure from your forefinger. I wouldn't chance anything other than what is offered as GM accessories covered under warranty on their website which appear to transfer weight at the ends of the roof over the door frame.