flyingfool

been using it for 3 oil changes so far no issues, and the best part... engine stopped consuming oil thru the catch can ever since the switch to 5-30w. i reinstalled the PCV line and deleted the aftermarket catch can . what a scam.. this is all the proof i have to offer

i just run a vinyl hose off the top trans cooler line into 5 gallon bucket. idle engine till it starts sucking air, shut off, re fill, repeat, 3x ran about 2.5-3 gallons thru.

i'de rather buy that hitch scale than a WDH, much less stuff to deal with and you know your numbers are where you want them

been using redline, since I became so disappointed in the performance lately of Mobil 1.. I think its also important not to use GM's recommended 0-20W , it's just too thin after you wear out the additives it's just 0w oil. that can't be good in the long run. been using 5-30W instead....

i wonder if it would be cheaper to upgrade to the Alpine Chevy radio instead of going GM i would do speakers and an amp, and velcro an Ipad to the dash link to you cell for hot spot data, maybe install a ring security camera to the bumper for back up cam to the ipad

torque converter might be one weakness on it...

ok .... you can stay in the same power band with a 4 speed. just change your final gear ratio.. it's all about fuel efficiency with the new GM transmissions, not power

that's why some pro tuners are pulling late model transmissions and installing the 4l80e units to get around the 6,8 and 10 speed nonsense..! more gears is all about emissions improvements not for making power.

i would say there are some nice sounding Japanese, and european v6 motors. good sounding v6 is part of the crank design and the muffler tuning. the new BMW's and Dodge cars are god awfull with open exhaust.. i think cylinder deactivation is whats really making it worse. But all the work GM put into the new pushrod v6, it is really impressive hot rod motor if you know what your looking at and sat down and studied the engineering that went into these motors.

wow, nice find for the year and milage...

i think you can just splice in behind the fill port, usually this area is made of a rubber hose connection. a t-fitting to a hose to electric pump behind the fuel cap.. pretty simple, just hit a switch to power the transfer pump

yes, your right.. but overly loaded hitch is usually the problem with novice tow'rs and rv's. take the toy hauler. , and its full of stuff in the front bathroom area, throw on 2 full LPG tanks, two deep cycle batteries on the hitch area. full tank of water and i'm almost certain the trailer is nose heavy

are we still hating on T1 trucks ??? ? i'm still trying to figure out whats up with that big plastic piece on the rear roof of the T1. is it for aerodynamics

i've also towed 200-300 mile runs in a day. at 65mph. no issues whatsoever on those long hauls. no fancy wdh needed

cool I will look into this over the weekend, never knew I had this feature..

I've towed more than most people on here 3 times a week 25 miles a day for 5 years with my old trusty 1990 Suburban hauling a cargo trailer loaded to 8500lbs. never had a need for WDH, I do recommend people buy a cheap trailer tonge weight scale if you do long distance traveling Balance is important! . If you keep the rig at 55/60mph your Safe, wagging the dog issues do creep up when the hitch is very light causing lifting of the rear end.. just dont hauling ass at 75-85 mph , in windy areas, and wooped out roads , you will get into issues for sure. K2 1500 trucks have stiffer rear leafs than previous models so stability has improved on these trucks compared to older generations. i would rather put the money into a rear sway bar instead of WDH

problem is i have the older cable style HPT, not the newer bluetooth model

funny you mention that, I just bought a cheapo 12 volt fuel pump last week on Amazon for $12 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L8IHM9K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 , it works amaizingly well for motor oil , trans fluid and gasoline, just solder on a set of battery clamps and it's a simple solution. i use it mostly to drain gas from my motorcycle fuel tank and transfer to a holding tank, I will have to try it on the truck when i order the deep pan

I want to do a trans re-learn but I hate buying more gadjets like a VCM, I was hoping HPT could do it, but probably not.. I know there is a manual way to do it if you have the shop manual, but it's very involved proceedure without a hardware tool

cheapest route is to shif some weight to the rear of trailer, and add 2-3" higher hitch.. i never used weight distribution hitch. too much hassle and $$$. if you really want a quick lift one can try a set of cheap air shocks too. but the key is Weight "BALANCE"

are you able to do a trans re-learn proceedure via HPTuners?

deep pan is more for heat resistance capacity, not for ease of draining.... but I just disconnect the upper trans cooler line , and pump the fluid from this line into a bucket, then pull pan and filter. if your hard core, you'll drill and tap the torque converter for a pipe plug for more drainage

https://paceperformance.com/i-15340456-24242552-2000-2400-rpm-stall-6l90e-zl1-cts-v-converter.html i'm not sure what the stock stall is, or how much torque the zl1 converter can take, but I can see you got serious chain of upgrades after the Magnusun gets tuned in.

i'll have to order that cooler for my HD on a side note , I thought i'de share this for you guys running the 6 speed https://paceperformance.com/i-8434163-gmp-24250062-camaro-transmission-pan-kit-with-wide-mouth-filter-6l80.html https://www.carmodder.com/view_doc.php?doc_id=82&model_id=45

probably chinese outsorced clutch parts.. mechanical is a better design i cant help GM buys sh*t components these days there is a reason GM uses a mechanical system on the HD trucks..they've done the research and know whats best