flyingfool

maybe not for towing. depends on your gearing too. and no lock up used when towing otherwise your burning up clutches, the isuzu NPR HD is probably closer to our truck stall, but i would call the isuzu dealer parts guy to confirm this. I like this converter best for towing, it only lacks Lock up clutch inside , which is why is more reliable than the stock, or the ZL1 converters. consult with sonnax or trans-go before making the leap, those guys have more knowlege than anyone here or on google search

6.2 probably out flows your motors cylinder heads. katech is a couple levels above a 6.2 in cfm. neither one you will out perform until you start spending money on cnc heads, big cams and oversized valves.

i found a guy on YT who installed the LT1 manifold, not sure if its an upgrade vs the 6.2 manifold. would be an interessting dyno test , only issue is re-locating the serp bet about a pulley but he pulled it off.

you aint outflowing the stock cam and heads with the oem CAI. you need to upgrade the entire induction first before thats the restriction

why bother? are you trying to see if the valves are coked up? this looks like a 2500HD motor due to the big fan, correct me if i'm wrong but isnt 2500 a 6.0 port injection? if its not a DI motor so i see no point.... cant you run a scope down the throttle body? might be hard to get to the runners, inside some manifolds are a set of trumpets so you'll have to make a hard turn to get to the intake.

try the ZL1 converter from the older 6 speed Camaro, its $350 for 2500 rpm stall, beefier component than the stock truck unit

camaro zl1 is $350 2200-2500 stall i think circD is close to $900

well if oil is sucking past pcv into engine, you got oil consumption issues. when i went to the thicker oil and full synthertic oil this stopped the pcv oil injestion problem for me... like i said i t might be breaking in the motor still so the parts arent all seated yet

wow isnt that a part of the design, improoved traction in the sand and snow? lol kinda like a paddle tire

i used one for awhile then once i switched to a 5-30 w , oil consumption ceased to be an issue... now i'm back to stock and tossed the can .. your oil consumption issue might be caused by engine breaking in still better to spend the money elsewhere

doesn't the T1 has electronic computer controlled brakes? after you get it fixed I would stop off at the toyota dealer and see what they'll give you for it..and try a Tundra

I bought a set of those for $650 , brand new with tires

more logical route would be installing 17" Tahoe PPV rims, they are smaller and lighter than monster 20" wheels, then Green stuff from EBC pads, then sticky tires I also found thru personal experience , that for emergency stops, or hard stops, one should shift your trans into neutral. this has a dramatic effect on braking distance. I found it even gave the truck more rear brake bias by doing this.

i think its odd there are no T1 1500s on the lots, maybe GM pulled them due to the the horendous transmission issues. something it up. and I'm not seeing many T1's on the streets so i dont believe they are being sold out

including the covid shutdown, i think its part of the new enviroment rules coming down the pipeline. GM's probably scrapping the trucks. it doesnt make sense, i dont see many trucks on the roads , not more than usual. GM is getting ready to switch completly to full electric trucks soon, maybe they want gassers off the lots to meet emmissions requirements govenor in California has signed a bill banning the sale of gas powered vehicles withing several years... big changes coming . end of an era

isn't the big upgrade installing T1 rotors and calipers ? stock system would be better with more rear brake bias, but what do I know , just a dummy

i'll go look for my P/N print out , will get back to ya later

yeah i'm not confident the GM techs can use a picoscope., but would love to see someone find the vibes while driving on the road surface vs a dyno surface

why? buy a used Camaro, if you need more speed..older 1999-2002 years are easy to work on

you know instead of capturing the fuel tank evap gases thru the Thtttle bodie evap solenoid., i wonder if i replumb the evap solenoid directly to a bottle of techron fuel treatment would this be just perfect amount of techron to clean the valves and manifold?

you can install LT forged crank swap and con rods into your l83

yeah your mixing electronic apples and oranges,,, it's a no go! save the motor and trans for a vintage car or truck.

I think alot of vibrations are being blamed on the trucks, when in actuallity it's the paved road surface. we have a fairly long wheelbase and depending on the paver wheel base used to smooth the roads, we might be syncing up with the sin wave created by the paver or long tracker trailers that deformed the surface.. i prrooved my theory this weekend by visiting a local dry lake in the area El MIrage California, completly flat , no woops or undulations. my vibration occurs at 78mph and carries on towards 100+mph on paved highways.. on the dry lake i held the same speed range til i hit engine kill speed 105mph and absolutly ZERO vibrations!!! its not the wheels or anything else

looks fine,, i want to try the PPV tahoe pads next. ceramic takes too long to warm up and grab IMO

did you do a bench test on the TECH-M? make sure there are no leaks and all check valves are holding, I would leave it in Manual 4-5th also play with tow haul to increase line pressure to clutches definatly needs proper trans professional to diagnose there are two model torque converters, one is a dud, and the other one is semi reliable. you can also try a converter from the 6 speed ZL1 camaro, its built better and has around 2300-2500 stall