Justin101714

OP, provide the last eight of your VIN and I’ll pull your RPO’s. We’ll find out for sure. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Check fuel volume, pressure may be okay, but if it doesn’t have good volume it’ll have poor acceleration. Can’t be a crank sensor, it wouldn’t start. Remove MAF and clean with MAF cleaner. Allow it to fully dry. Any way you can get a screenshot of fuel trim, MAP, MAF data? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Year make model? Make sure you don’t have a brake pedal switch code in the ECM. It’s common in 2007-2013 body styles. If code is set, replace the switch and reevaluate. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks decent to me. Just make sure your rotational torque at the pinion is within spec with ring gear/diff removed. Make sure backlash measures in spec. Use a dial indicator, you should be good. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Those switches have one connector for all of them. If it’s not plugged into the clockspring, they won’t work, if it is plugged in and they don’t work, replace the clockspring. No way around it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Have you checked to see if the element is receiving what it should be? Being a dealership tech I would imagine you have access to schematics for other brands. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Got a good fuel filter on this thing? Seen it too many times. Older fuel tanks start to break down inside and clog the filter with debris. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You must have magneride. Replace both front shock absorbers, it won’t be cheap. Gm #25871432. This should fix it. Probably rides like a stagecoach wagon. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It’s normal to drop Pressure after that length of time. You check regulator drop for 1 minute after key off. If you maintain pressure for a minute after the pressure test, the regulator is good. So by hard start, do you mean an extended crank before it starts? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Turn ignition on, leave on for 10 mins exactly, turn ignition off. Repeat this an additional two times for a total of 30 mins. After the last ten minute session, key off, wait 2 mins, key on, wait 15 secs, attempt to start the vehicle. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Year make model, trans model? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Remove left door speaker, install it in the right door, use it as a test speaker. Let’s verify it doesn’t work with a known good speaker. I see this a lot. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay, each tail lamp assembly tail lights run on separate circuits. The odds of both being shorted in the wiring is pretty slim, they originate in the underhood fuse block with the horn. I suspect bad underhood fuse block. If you remove the horn fuse do the lights go out? I know you removing the relay works. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would say it’s overfilled. Remove oil until it’s in the correct area. Start the vehicle, warm it up an recheck. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Why do you think they need to be recalibrated? They do that on their own when the vehicle is switched on. Does one not function? If so, calibration won’t fix it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk