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Seat covers have come a long way, I almost couldn't tell these were covers. Any concerns/issues with having covers like these and using heated seats?

Probably a software configuration bug on the firmware they loaded on these radios from the factory. As Nhcampbells noted, the reset fixes the problem. I kind of forgot about the issue since it hasn't come up since I reset my radio.

Have you tried the steps yourself to see if it also improved your creeping issues? So far, my results have been the same since performing the process myself 10 days ago and I haven't had it creep on me at all which is a peace of mind.

When I had previously read through my trucks manuals, it mentioned after a heavy towing event, it might need to idle for a bit to cool off the engine and would auto start if it needed to in order to cool off the engine. Guessing your computer is thinking some part of your engine needs additional cooling before shutting down.

You are honestly better off getting what you need now than trying to add later on. It'll save you on cost and headache when trying to add later on. For what upgrades you need, that'll have to be based upon what you believe you will be using the truck for. Given what you've described, you'll probably at least want to get the gooseneck/5th wheel options. For other accessories that I'd highly recommend; The all weather mats, spray on bed liner, and wheel liners are all things you'll probably want to protect your truck from wear and tear. Get a set of running boards/steps would probably go a long way with keeping the wife happy and help the kids getting in and out of these tall trucks. Many of the other accessories are nice, but are typically not necessary The GVWR and gearing options you noted are the differences between the gas and diesel options (Gas = 11650 GVWR and 3.73 axle, Diesel = 11350 GVWR and 3.42 axle), so you don't really get to choose those once you decided on what engine you are going with. If you are trying to save some money or needing a bit more payload, you could go with the 6.6 gas engine and get the other options you want/need instead.

As others who have tried, this seems to actually work. I performed these steps a couple of days ago and I've noticed a big difference in the brake feel and performance. Kind of surprised it worked, but I'm not the most knowledgeable about brake systems. Anyone have any ideas why this seems to help?

Everyone is going to have their own opinion and defend the choices they made, as you can see with the back and forth going on. Like anything in life, you need to weigh the pro's and con's of which truck meets your needs. I was in a similar situation when I ended up choosing my LT Duramax. Yes a 6.6 gas with all the bells and whistles would have probably been fine, but after looking at what I needed/wanted my truck for I ended on the Duramax as the most desirable trait. Long trips through mountains are effortless, the distance I can travel between fuel stops, and the ability to use the commercial lanes for fueling make my traveling about as easy as driving a car. Now if I was in your same shoes and given the information you provided, I would have probably went with the AT4 gas. I really like the styling of the AT4 and the 6.6 gas is no slouch. Given you're not towing a lot of weight and for short distances, you would probably be just as happy with the gas for towing.

My previous '14 was a double cab and while it got us by for a while, it eventually got to a point where my boys were getting too big to be comfortable for long road trips. Getting a crew cab for my current truck was a priority and my family is super happy we went that route with all that extra leg room. I've ridden in my buddies 2021 double cab a few times and we fit 4 adults without a problem. If we were going on any trips longer than our lunch breaks, then I would probably be calling shotgun so my legs wouldn't cramp up from not being able to stretch them out. If you plan on taking the family on long road trips I would highly suggest sticking with the crew cab. While the double cab will get you by, even on long road trips, as your kid(s) get taller it will slowly become a problem.

Is that setup even legal? If I saw that rig coming down the road I would both be impressed and scared at the same time. If you do actually tow that, I'd love to hear the story of how it went.

Is the pin weight you are looking at based upon the gross trailer weight? If so, then you may be okay with towing this particular camper as long as you are not pushing it's max gross. You typically figure your pin weight at 15%-20% of your trailers current weight. If you aren't loading it down, then you aren't adding as much to the pin. Ideally you'd weigh your entire rig loaded with a scale to get a true reading on the axles, but you can always do a paper exercise by looking at the campers dry weight and adding everything you plan on loading into it and taking 20% of that as your pin weight.

You shouldn't be exceeding any of those weight numbers, as that's what the manufacturer has deemed safe for what your truck can tow. Max payload does not equal max tongue weight. Everything in your truck, including family, luggage, camping gear, etc. count towards your payload totals. Know that your truck can tow/haul more weight than what the sticker says, but it's not something anyone would recommend. You'd probably be safe, but you are also introducing extra liability in the event you get into an accident or cause one. Also know that you can't "add" payload capacity to your truck by adding helpers such as airbags or Timbrens, these are only for adding load stability. Glad to see you are taking the time to ask the questions and learning about load capacities. Too many buy a truck, look at the max towing weight and let the dealer talk them into something that they really shouldn't be towing.

If you aren't looking to spend a bunch just to satisfy your curiosity, you can get a much cheaper OBD II reader/scanner. My $45 Amazon ordered ANCEL AD410 let's me view DPF levels and regen status, plus a bunch of other data streams the vehicle presents via the OBD II port. It of course has its downsides, like not being very user friendly and doesn't save the screen where you left off, but it gets the job done. You won't be able to initiate a manual regen, but that really isn't something that you'll probably ever need anyways.

Not much has changed between 2021 and 2022. I haven't seen anything that indicates changes to the chassis that would prevent installation of the same nerf bars/running boards, so I'd imagine they'd work out just fine.

If you go by the owners manual you should take it into the dealer to change the fluid or reference the service manual. Only problem I see is that I can't seem to find a service manual for a 2020 or 2021 model years.

You can find the paint color code on the stick in the door jam with the large QR code. The QR code itself will list your RPO codes if you scan it. If you look directly underneath it, you will see your vehicles color code. Mine shows 619D which is WA619D touch up paint. Everything I find shows the "Red Hot" color code as WA130X (RPO G7C), so it should show up as 130X under the stickers QR code.

Pretty much this. I typically wait around 30 seconds after the nozzle first tops and then slowly fill up the remainder to reduce foaming. If you are filling up in a commercial truck lane it's even worse with how high flow those nozzles are.

Let's see if I can help answer some of your questions ... Yes you can probably add on after the fact, but it's almost always significantly cheaper and easier to get whatever features you want/need from the factory than try to get those added on after the fact. Finding all the necessary parts and getting the vehicle re-programmed isn't always easy or straight forward. The dealer may not even be able to or want to do the work either. For any upgrades/changes you want to do after the fact, you may want to look through the forums here to see if anyone has done it before which will make your life a lot easier if you plan on doing the work yourself. I kick myself for overlooking the missing cab lights on the truck. They are a $50 option, but will cost me around $150 in parts plus any labor to install; though I suppose I could just poke the holes in my roof myself. The prices that dealers quote you tend to be based upon whatever factory and dealer incentives are going on that month, which doesn't always tell the whole picture. You'd be best off understanding what those incentives are and how you actually qualify for those before taking the dealer at their word. In regards to other costs and fees, you can expect to also pay tax, title, documentation, and possibly destination fees if they haven't already rolled those up into the vehicle price. You'll also want to calculate for any dealer add-ons you might be wanting to do such as Ziebart coating, bed liners, under seat storage, or whatever you might want to purchase extra. Once you get past the first salesman who sells you the car, be aware of the second salesman, whom many forget about, which is the F&I manager. The F&I manager may run your credit, setup the loan, and do all the paperwork at the end, but their most important job is to sell you more stuff after you've already worked out your deal with the first salesman. They are going to try to sell you on any add-ons, warranty, and vehicle protection stuff. So do plan for the second salesman and the extra stuff they will probably convince you to buy. Not saying that stuff is bad, but many forget about that part when negotiating with the first salesman and end up paying more than they planned/budgeted for.

It's a crew cab standard box with 4x4. It doesn't have a whole lot of bells and whistles which lowers the curb weight and gives me more payload.

2020 Chevy 2500 - RPO PYN - Wheels, 17″ (43.2 cm) painted steel, Silver GM part number: 9597724 Size: 17 x 7.5

My manual did not have anything in regards to a towing break-in period. It just states "Do not tow trailer during break-in". So for the first 500 miles no towing. Purchased my truck before camping season started, so didn't really run into needing to worry about not towing during break-in. I tried to take back roads when I could to keep my speed below the 55 mph recommendation, but that rarely worked out the way I planned. Did "okay" at keeping it within the limits, but I didn't bend over backwards trying to meet the recommendations.

2021 Chevy 2500 LT Duramax

I don't have much confidence with these radios. It gave me fits on day one, for different reasons, but a reset fixed my problems. Might be worth giving a shot for your issue.

There's a handy forum post that is used as a quick reference for info like this. I stuck it in my favorites since it's going to come in handy in the future

What year are you looking at? A 2021 GMC 2500 AT4 CCSB dimensions are 79.82 high and 250.1 inches long. This would give you around 4 inches in height and over a foot in length to play with. I'm personally not a fan of those numbers since one long work day and forgetting I have a hitch on there and I'd put a hole in my wall. I'd imagine you are a lot more graceful than me, so maybe you wouldn't have that problem. You technically have enough room if you are willing to do it.

Ok I see what you're saying now. I had read your original post wrong and had mistakenly thought your carplay/android auto wasn't doing the text to speech feature. My 2014 and my current 2021 don't have it so I don't know what I was missing in regards to the radio having the feature builtin. It's not great, but when I'm plugged in and have CarPlay enabled I do get the same text notifications when I'm using the regular GM radio for listening to local stations. The unfortunate bit is that it forces you to open CarPlay in order to get the text and listen to it, taking you away from what you had open. If you are using the builtin NAV, that would really suck so I can see your frustration. Sadly I don't have any recommendations on how you can best use a hybrid radio + CarPlay/Android solution that isn't clunky and annoying; The two just don't work well together. I find that going all in on CarPlay has removed most of my frustration with trying to use the 2 separately.