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Bash74

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Everything posted by Bash74

  1. The dealership is full of crap and can tell you if it has been tuned. I would bet it has been tuned because of the way you are describing the shifts, the speed, and the AFM. Now you mentioned re-gearing, well let's hope so, if not that just sucks, and if you tow that really sucks. A 6in lift on 35s and factory gears is just wrong and so much of the truck is lost. If there is one more thing you do to the truck let it be a re-gear if it has not been already and it you do 4.56 unless not ever or not much towing then 4.10 is ok.
  2. As you said you tuned Escalade to 1000 but that was because they modded the engine so it had to be tuned to get the benefit. A bone stock engine that people are not really putting on a dyno or adding to engine can get away with a handheld to do the simple stuff. I for one think people forget about doing stuff like they should before thinking about a tuner. For example someone that lifts a truck puts 35s on but doesnt regear to 4.56 but does do a tune is just dumb in my mind. To each their own.
  3. If your just wanting to do the basics then just get a hand held like diablo or a superchips. I believe there is no reason to spend money on others like HP or BB unless you are doing other stuff to the vehicle like forced injunction, changing gears, cam, meth, and other stuff. Most people will rarely utilize what the truck has stock.
  4. Basically preference. Some will say it's not good for the engine. On top of that I had no difference in MPG with it on.
  5. I have used Flashpaq, Dashpaq, Diablo and to be honest I find them not to good. For just a little bit more money Black Bear is the way to go. They have sent me multiple tunes till I got it exactly how I wanted it when towing and not towing. Either way turn off the AFM
  6. Not trying to be rude, but how did you not notice that before it got that bad especially the wet mildew mold smell.
  7. They can hook up to computer and figure out why the service stabilitrak come up and shouldn't make a difference if you have bigger tires or not for them to do the test. Second, I have 6in lift and 35s and it has never affected cost when it came to warranty work. Go to another dealer.
  8. No fun in that. Rather do it in the drive way garage door open watching NASCAR or hunting channel and drinking a beer, plus it is cheaper then going to the dealer or at least in my area. Doing my self $56, $48 for oil and filter $8 for the six pack. Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
  9. No problem. Squeaks and suspension noises are always the biggest pain to figure out. Since you will be doing the level and other stuff might as well look at the shock strut area people mentioned and see if that can be causing anything. Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
  10. Sorry don't have the one for energy suspension because I picked them up from a 4x4 shop. Now the ones i put on a friends truck recently where the Dorman 531-608 from summit racing, but I thought the bar is 36mm if I remember correctly. His has no squeak at all either when it hit -30 a few weeks ago. Lub with marine based Teflon grease Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
  11. Energy Suspension bushings. I lifted the truck and got underneath it as friends pushed up and down on tires and that's where the noise was coming from on mine so changed them out and the sound has never come back. Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
  12. Check sway bar bushings. My 15 did this, thought it was coming from control arm shock/strut area, but it was actually the bushings. Changed them and no more squeak even when it hit -50 last year and -37 so far this year. Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
  13. Sway bar bushings. The oem ones are garbage. Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
  14. MVI has a system where to can choose front camera, side mirror blindspot cameras, cab taillight camera. Think it is called 360 system. Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
  15. Ya, there is some stuff put into a lift and not the cheapest thing. If I never went with a lift I would have changed shocks because I have never liked the shocks that come from factory. If shocks helped your friend I say go with that plus it's not expensive. While under there I would check ubolts torque, drive shaft, just a good look over of everything Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
  16. The two biggest parts are front and rear cross members, and steering knuckles. The rear got new shocks the front factory. The rear had a leaf added and blocks. Then all the other little things. So not sure if it's a specific thing or the lift as a whole took the shake away. Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
  17. I would hook up a scanner and drive your daily routine and record live data. Then go over it and look for any misfire data on each cylinder, air flow data, fuel trim long and short term. I would do it twice once with it going from 4 to 8 cylinder and then with it disabled. Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
  18. Not sure if axles fix the shake or not but shocks might. I say this because my truck had the shake but after I put a 6in lift on the truck the shake disappeared and never came back. People that ride in the truck commented on how smooth it got after the lift was put on. Have had it up to 95 and still no shake. Not sure how the lift got rid of the shake but it did. Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
  19. Don't you get a print out of the work done each time. Also the Chevy owners website that has all the stuff about your vehicle. Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
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