Price seems about right compared to my research for a 9.5 3.08 to 4.10 with true trac swap. I never looked into the 9.75 rear end (yours), but I would recommend you look into a Truetrac carrier in the rear instead of the Yukon Duragrip (strictly my personal preference based upon reviews, not ownership). Dont forget a tuner to adjust the computer for the change in gears and tires.
Sounds like what a lot of people describe when the torque converter is bad. GM used to recommend a double or triple tranny flush, but now they said there is a new fix that was supposed to be available last month but everyone is still waiting to see what that “fix” is. do you have the 8 or 6 speed?
It seems to me GM is trying to stop us from lifting and getting bigger wheels for our trucks; -the Upper Control arm design limits level/lift. -square wheel wells that converge towards the bottom that limit tire size -stock tire sizes are generally smaller than Ford/Ram -weaker control arm material, less strength to support lifts and larger tires. -19’ trucks have a large brake cover that prevents a lot of aftermarket wheels from fitting Just look at BDS’ website and compare the amount of lift needed on GMs to other brands to fit like sizes tires (33/35/37). Anything else I am forgetting?
Watch this video for the OEM switch info. https://youtu.be/4fESc7THdsQ Big thanks to Tinkering Fox for making this extremely informative video about buying the correct OEM switch and installing it! I bought the custom wiring harness from Pgamboa, $35.
A suggestion: if you wire the OEM switch to the BCM there is a time period you must wait (5 or so secs) between turning lights on to turning the lights off, but if you go with the extra console option in the 2nd post I *think* it will be immediate. The good with the BCM option is it will light up the off road lights activated light on the dash (next to high beams). I plan on wiring to BCM and using the wire to power multiple relays for multiple forward lights. You can also place those lights on individual switches which only power on when the BCM light switch is activated, just extra wiring/switches. I found this custom 3 switch panel, it’s engraved for nitro but I’m sure there is a way to change it; https://www.nitrousexpress.com/15789-2014-up-silverado-custom-switch-panel.html
These aren’t specific to your instal, but are general aux light installs. This seems to be a popular option on this site; https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/214990-oem-off-road-light-switch-install/ I found this one and it appears to bypass the BCM, and likely the problems some of those with pre 16’ had; https://offhighwayequipment.com/silverado-sierra/silverado-sierra-1500-2500-3500-2014-2018-auxiliary-light-switch-kit-single-channel-with-fog-lights/
I’d go with Zone 4.5 from the little bit of info provided. The 4.5 & 6.5 use the same drop brackets so the 6.5 is essentially a 2.5 level on top of the 4.5 full lift, so I’ve read across multiple forms/posts. You can always order the few extra stuff from zone to make it a 6.5, or just go with something like Bilstein adjustable struts, or Rancho levels, etc
I’m no mechanic, but this is what’s been explained to me; Did this occur when you were on a high traction surface (ie paved road, maybe hard pack dirt)? If so, it’s likely because you are in 4wd high mode. 4wd high and 4wd low locks the transfer case which can cause binding when making turns on high traction surfaces. The Auto mode (aka all wheel drive) allows for slippage in the transfer case so no binding when turning. Since you don’t have the problem when going straight or when in auto mode I suspect this is what’s going on. Just don’t use 4wd while on high traction surfaces, unless you are ONLY going straight (ie pulling a boat up a boat ramp and need more traction).
This how I was thinking, seems like a lot of stress to the shocks/mounts/bushings otherwise. The below article talks about overextended suspension and adding straps to limit down travel. I wonder if straps should be added to CST lifts given the removal of bump stops. Check out the pic and description of the messed up bushing on the shocks lower mount, which was caused by excessive droop/extension/downward travel. https://www.drivingline.com/articles/how-to-protect-your-ifs-with-limit-straps/
I’m not even sure bump stops are what stops downward wheel travel. It may be the shocks themselves for all I know. This is just the only thing that gives me pause on going with the CST lift until someone can explain what stops downward suspension travel. I really wish CST would have written me back.
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