Racindave

I’ve been having what I thought was leaf springs rubbing and popping. My truck has always done the jerking sometimes when coming to a stop. It now has 111,000 miles plus on it. After searching for the sound of the screeching I decided to pull the drive shaft off and pour dexron vl fluid in the slip yoke. The jerking has stopped and so has the rear end noise. (The transmission jerking is a long going issues with the older model gm trucks…search gm drive line clunk). Basically the slip yoke needed lubricating. The older models you could just grease them but I was scared to with the newer transmissions. Give it a try you won’t be disappointed.

I’m running 305/45/22 Michelins with 1.5 level. No rubbing. They are a newer wheel though so not sure about the offset.

Yes

I picked these up this week after my snowflakes started leaking. Honestly think I like the snowflakes better… I had never seen them before though.

Have you replaced or cleaned the negative battery cable? I think I might would try that....

Went to go help my MIL with no electricity in this storm. Had to stop and move a limb, it looked like a Chevy commercial so I took a pic.

Are you wanting mood lighting or just entry exit lighting? If mood lighting use an add a circuit and connect to the trailer light power fuse under the hood. This will make the lights come on anytime the headlight/park lights are on.

I personally wouldn’t try to blow it myself. Just try to find a fuse that is rated to whatever your gonna try to power. The add a circuit will only carry so much also... from what you say you want to power they should be fine. I’m not sure about the air horn but you might could just go straight off the battery with an in line fuse in the new power line. Put the inline fuse within 12 inches of the battery though. Take your time and do it right. Don’t burn down your rig trying to do more than the wires can handle...Have fun.

Don’t up the size of the fuse. I would use something that won’t leave you stranded if you were to blow them and not have a spare fuse. (Radio, Heater, etc..). For my LEDs I tied into the trailer running light fuse under the hood so mine would come on when the lights were on. (My leds are mood lighting in the floorboards.) they have a separate switch so I can turn them off if I’m tired of them.

Found some 22s. Pretty pleased with the new look.

I wonder if the wire underneath horn button in steering wheel is frayed?

I’ve gotten bad sensors at advance auto a few times..... I don’t buy electrical items from them anymore because of it....

I removed my rear blocks and just used washers on the ubolts. No money spent. Ended up putting blocks back and doing 1.5 inch spacer one the front. Sometimes it looks level, sometimes nose down, sometimes nose high. To me it’s as close as I’m gonna get and still be able to pull a trailer some.