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Just did the swap and change on a 2018 Sierra eAssist with 8speed. Note that the exhaust actually runs across the front side of the pan (near the sway bar) and not the rear. Also, the only thing preventing the pan from coming out is the transmission filter. Just wiggle, some muscle and it will come out, or maybe pull out the filter while the pan is still on if there is enough clearance. I pumped out 5 quarts only, but had already filled it back up with 7.4 quarts before checking the waste container. I ended up having a lot of fluid (2.4ish) come back out during the level check. Makes total sense since only 5 quarts came out, but just make sure you check your level after if you didn't measure what you took out.

Longer exhaust hangers/bushings should should allow you to move the catback frontwards enough to get it to fit.

I have my clutter of wires, fuse blocks and relays for my lights there. Would like to dress it up to look cool and functional not just functional.

Same issue with readylift UCA, 2.5" spacer and 275/60-20. Driver side rubs at full lock but passenger side does not. Didn't bother me much but I did eventually end up going with 0 offset wheels anyway. Readylift site says that their UCA will rub with stock offset and recommends 0 offset wheels.

I just replaced my back up bulbs, cargo bulbs and license plate bulbs with diode dynamics LEDs. The output is amazing on the XPR reverse bulbs. I was wary of it washing out the back up cam, but it works great. Let's see how long these last.

Height looks good front and back. I don't think you will need that rear block.

Just keep it in when you want V8 and take it out when you want AFM turned on. It takes 2 seconds to install/remove. I've had my range in for 20K miles. Just took it off last week for a change. My wife's SUV has the sport, eco, etc. modes. Seems to me they just adjust throttle sensitivity. I ended up getting one from soler performance. Loved it until it gave me a cel and put me in limp mode. I was in the middle of nowhere at the time so just found a lot and parked the truck. Gave it a few minutes, restarted it and it was fine. Drove home and ripped that thing out.

Any CAIs will work. You just have to either make a bracket to rotate/move the coolant overflow reservoir, relocate the reservoir, or custom the intake pipe so that they don't obstruct with one another. If you just want to turn off the V4 mode and auto start/stop, then the range is all you need. If you want anything beyond that then a tune is best. I only know of BBP that has tuned eAssists. It's not supported by the others.

I used this one, it's a little longer, but otherwise fits fine. I clean and swap this one and GMPP one back and forth. Some say you can clean it, others say you can't. AEM 21-2059DK 4" Inlet x 9" Element Dryflow Air Filter

I drilled into the plastic trim above the bumper. The bumper already has predrilled holes that I used to mount my additional fog lights. They work great and I think look pretty clean.

Been running it for 2 years on my eAssist and it works great. For some reason, the first one I had made the truck shift really hard even after the update. The second one does just fine. If you're interested, Justin from Black Bear tuning is also able to tune the eAssist.

This is super great news! Yea HP Tuners still a no go. I had asked BBP awhile back and they said they should be but couldn't verify. Glad that it can be done! T

Old thread but in case anyone is following, BBP has tuned at least 1 eAssist Sierra. So if anyone is interested, BBP can tune you.

Your ball joint pressed itself out! Totally legitimate reason for upgrading now!

Advice is just do it! If you have the stock wheels you will likely rub with the 275/60/20s at full turn. It's not bad but can get annoying. Do the front first and then decide if it's too much rake for you still. Otherwise do a 2.5" level and leave the rear alone.