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just get a rubber or silicone coupler to mate it up with the 6.2 TB, just like the ones provided for the K&N kits. Alternatively, if you really need to have it be CARB compliant, you can get a Banks CAI. It's 50 state legal and has a CARB EO number.

Wow the price has increased substantially since I purchased mine in late 2018. The filter is washable. I also purchased in AEM dryflow filter for half the cost of GMPP one from Amazon so that I wouldn't have to wait for the filter to completely dry before I can use the truck. When I wash the AEM, I will reinstall the GM one.

Looks like the ported TB for 5.3 is now available! Someone buy this and let us know how it feels! https://www.solerengineering.com/store/se

Borla or Corsa for longevity and quality. Borla for a sportier sound, corsa for the rumbly growl. I have the GMPP Borla. it's supposed to be touring but it definitely is louder than the Borla touring (non-GMPP). Has flapper so no chop in V4. I should have gotten the Corsa ahahaah.

LOL...China or not, I installed mine this week and love it so far. I've only driven on it for 2 miles but it made all the difference in the world. Felt like dropping a tooth in the rear.

When will you have the 5.3TBs available? Was looking to purchase the combo but you didn't have the TB so i just got the controller. Only took it around the block because there is nowhere to go, but so far loving it! Best drive-ability mod on my truck so far!

The flapper is in the pipe before the muffler. Unless you also change that pipe, there's no reason why it would be gone. Just note that while the flapper helps reduce the chop/drone when in V4, it doesn't help much with drone from a loud muffler when not in V4. Also the muffler is only 13". I think the GMPP Borla is much larger. They will need to add some piping for it to work. Just make sure they don't weld anything to the GMPP exhaust.

youtube on surround sound will come close to true sound, but not on computer, phone or laptop.

I would go with the Corsa Sport. Borla sounds sporty and is loud. Corsa sport sounds just mean, rumble, girgling I'm going to suck everything into the motor and spit it out the rear type sound. I think the atak is louder though. So you want sporty sound, Borla, you want mean muscle rumble, Corsa Sport.

It's in your dash display setting. A few of them will show V4 or V8 mode on the bottom. The fuel economy and trip meter ones will show it.

Hi, I've done enough digging around to share my experiences: Performance items: Cold Air Intakes: Only fitment issue is with CAIs since the coolant reservoir is moved to the front of the truck, just behind the radiator (stock location is replaced with another battery). Relocate the reservoir with some longer lines and all CAIs would work on the eAssist. I chose to trim the inlet pipe that came with the GM Performance Parts CAI and use a silicon elbow to get it to fit. Sounds great...at initial install my truck did take off faster because my wallet was lighter by about 0.3 ounces. Exhaust: Everything is the same as non-eAssist vehicles. Just remember eAssist will work to keep truck in AFM longer so you may want to keep the flapper or drive in D7 or get Range device. I'm running the GM Borla with flapper. Plenty loud and no chop in V4. Wife is super sensitive to sound and it's fine on long drives with her, but when she is riding in the truck I'm actually running 2 flappers...on kills V4 chop by controlling flow. The other kills all unpleasant sound by being louder and more unpleasant. If done differently, I'd go with Corsa Sport. Best sounding IMO. I'm looking into SolerPerformance's TB right now. Debating if I want to try that out and if it would work or not without tuning and with my CAI. Tuning: No aftermarket support available. Demand isn't there so no company has spent the resources/funds to provide support. BUT it can be done, just need to find someone to do it. Definitely not worth the cost. Some tuners will say it's untouchable, can't be done, etc. That is crap. They are just too lazy or not enough know how/money. If it came with a factory tune, surely it can be tuned. This means forget about using aftermarket handhelds, etc. to get rid of AFM, change tire size, gear ratio, shift points, etc...will get a code that says "vehicle not supported". If you do regeared, larger tires, etc. the dealership would be able to reprogram those items for you. AFM and auto start/stop: if you want to get rid of both, you can drive in D7. If you want to get rid of just auto start/stop, just drive in D8. If you still want to do both and keep 8th gear, you can use the Range device. Others have reported no issues with it. When I tried it out, vehicle would shift hard when coming to a stop. Not sure if it's the Range in combination with my CAI or what, but it does not do that when driving in D7 to deactivate AFM. I just drive with it on because that is how it's designed, and do frequent oil changes, etc. Suspension Lots of suspension companies would say it doesn't work on eAssist vehicles probably because they've never tried to fit it. Just check the part numbers on eAssist trucks vs. non-eAssist ones and you will see that they are the same and so aftermarket suspension parts will work. Only issue is with calibrating the speedo, which the dealer or someone with the same equipment as the dealer and fix for you. My friend has a level kit and running 33s on his eAssist and hasn't changed his speedo. The shop told him they did, but they didn't. With the larger tires (and more load) the truck does not go into AFM as much anymore. When times get better, I'm looking at Bilstein's all the way around, or if it gets way better, fox/king all the way around. I hope this helps!

Thanks for the response Mike! Having the eAssist model means no love for tuners and performance parts. This would somewhat appease that and not break the bank!

Banks CAI is CARB legal I believe. @[email protected] can you describe how your throttle controller is different than the pedal commander? My concern is vehicles throwing codes. Thanks!

Read his question. Required vs optimal is not the same.

No it is not required. If you go any taller than 2.5" then you will want to change the UCA.