SilveradoRST

Column shifter still available with jump seat configuration.

I’m liking the screens, glad it wasn’t like the Tahoe/Suburban design. I couldn’t care less for the console shifter. Looks a bit like the 2018+ Traverse console arrangement styling. I wonder if the 2500/3500 are going to get a similar interior update next model year.

You can always call them and ask if there are any “promotional” pricing available. From my experience, there always is.

Any longterm effects such as uneven wear or stress on the mounting points, if I leave it misaligned? Silly question but, is the misaligned bed still within spec (loose tolerances?)

This is great info, thanks! I found the 2 TSB involving the ATF exchange. 18-NA-355 (Silverado/Sierra '15-'19 LD) and 19-NA-121 (Silverado/Sierra '19 New Body). Correct me if I'm wrong, but it seems like for 18-NA-355 it talks about using 2qts of the new fluid to flush out the cooler lines (Page 5, step 28). But for 19-NA-121, it says to only use shop air at 50psi to blow the old fluid out of the cooler lines (Page 5, step 25). No new ATF is used to flush the cooler lines for the '19 New Body. Am I reading that wrong? (Sorry if I'm hijacking the thread). Edit: I know we are talking about oz. in the cooler lines, so not a big deal. Just clarifying for my own knowledge. MC-10163890-9999.pdf MC-10174268-9999.pdf

Does the flush really get all of the old ATF out of the transmission? How do they deal with the fluid inside the cooler lines?

Did the symptoms (hesitation/shudder) show up one day and stay? Or did it show up here and there and then eventually became consistent? I had a few rumbles while cruising around 60km/h. Happened only a couple of times. 3rd time it happened I slowed down and it went away. But it doesn’t always happen…yet.

Sorry for my lack of knowledge, trying to learn here. Outside of the bad batch, is the lifter issue related to AFM/DFM? Read lots of people who have suggested that. Is there something I can do to minimize it from happening (Install Range Tech)? Or is it purely just a random defect issue that happens to from time to time like any defect from any manufacture?

Anyone here know if the bolts for the seats (that fasten it to the cab body) are one-time use? Getting a leather upgrade, shop telling me I need new bolts.

Hopes dashed. Thanks for the info. I guess I’ll have to wait for symptoms to appear. Edit: The TSB says the cutoff/break point is March 1, 2019. If they only started using the new ATF in the summer at the factory, are people with build dates between March 2, 2019 to June-ish screwed? MC-10174268-9999.pdf

No, no shop manual. Just a combination of the TSB, the official instructions to remove the headliner, and an article on GM Techlink about those one-time-use nuts. It also helps that I removed the spoiler myself a couple times. Once to fix the leak. And again to do the third brake light camera upgrade. Not fun but glad I did it myself.

Mine was built in Feb 2019. Only have 10,000 miles, thanks COVID. Just waiting for shutters and shakes to bring it in for the new ATF. Drives smooth right now. In the back of my mind I’m hoping I got lucky and received the new ATF from factory. But I know March 2019 was when GM switched over.

There’s no washer on the outside. Those white washers on the inside are the only thing that’s keeping water from getting it for those specific bolts. There are two black washers that belong to the yellow retainer clips on the outside. Make sure both are in good condition. A lot of times they get damaged and are the cause for a secondary leak point. If they are damaged or not in the best condition then replace it. Part number 15864780. Comes with the yellow retainer and black washer in one. The other washers on the outside are on the four corner nuts that are snapped-in on the spoiler side. There’s a thin black washer built-in to the washer. I find those are usually fine and hold up from removing and reinstalling the spoiler. But never hurts to inspect it if you still can. I got lots of help from this forum. Some good people here. Just paying it forward where I can. I did my own sealant too. So far so good. Hope your holds up as well!

Those 8 nuts with the white washers need to be replaced with new ones. GM says they are one-time nuts exactly because the white washer/seal breaks down when removed. Part number 11611049 As for the rear two clips above the rear seat. I just kept playing with it, pushing up and see if they align to click in. If you can’t get it, you can always remove two blue clips on the headliner side and it should stop the rattle. Maybe someone else here will offer a better method to get them to clip in.

Anyone using the OBDLink MX+ device on their 2019+ truck? Never had an OBD2 reader/scan tool. The MX+ seem to be the best value for the money. Only reads DTC codes for now. All the advance diagnostic info isn’t available for the 2019+ yet. Seems like I can’t find any OBD2 reader or scan tool to read ABS and SRS codes for our trucks. Don’t need a reader/scan tool, just want one.

I have the Remote Access and the Safety and Security packages. It gets cold here in Canada, and starting the truck with the phone helps, when the fob range doesn't cut it. Got the Safety and Security in case I ever get in a single vehicle accident on a country/rural road, etc., my phone goes flying and I can't get to it (I guess I could always cry out to Siri?) or I get knocked unconscious. Nice to know OnStar will detect my accident and call (hopefully within cell service). Probably never going to need the Safety and Security package, but I'm not paying full price for both packs together, so why not.

What was your build date if you don’t mind me asking?

Might be this. https://gm-techlink.com/?p=14435

Thanks! This is what I was looking for. Yup 29-30psi idle when fully warmed. On startup first thing in the morning (summer), it shoots up to 500kpa (72psi) and if I drive it right away, it stays there and slowly works it's way down to 400kpa (60psi) after 10-15mins depending on how many stop lights I run into. Never paid attention to the gauge until after the cooler lines were changed, so I didn't have any reference points. Looks like I'm operating within normal ranges. Thanks again.

I recently had the engine oil cooler lines recall done. 2019, 5.3, 8sp. Before the recall, the oil pressure would fluctuate between 200kpa (29psi) at idle and 400kps (58psi) when driving around town or highway, which I know is normal. Now, I notice my oil pressure likes to fluctuate between 400kpa - 450kpa (58psi - 65psi, a tick past straight north) when driving around town, but settles to 400kpa (58psi) when on the highway. Still idles at 200kpa. I read that 65 psi is still an ok range. No towing, empty bed, not sending it, in all scenarios. Oil level seems to be ok. Anything to be concerned about to take back to the dealer? Anyone else going past 58psi just driving around town, not towing or hauling?

Yeah, I know. I’m being a bit manic. I just don’t want the plastic piece to contribute to trapping moisture or clogging any pinch weld drain holes. Thanks for everyone who took the time to read my essay.

OCD question alert. I was doing my Spring rustproofing touch ups. I usually crawl underneath and remove the plugs on the inner rocker panel and stick my 360 spray hose through the holes to reach inside the rocker. Unfortunately this time one of the tops of a plug broke off. I couldn’t get the stem out with needle nose pliers so I decided to just push the broken piece into the rocker. I took my 360 hose and sprayed the inside with my oil based rust inhibitor and plug it up with a new plug. I don’t think I’m going to try and remove those smaller plugs anymore and have another snapping off on me. I’ll stick with removing only the bigger plugs. Do I need to be concerned about that broken off piece of plastic inside the rocker? I did spray rust inhibitor but I probably will never do so again inside that portion of the rocker. And that particular section of the inside rocker seems to be boxed-in as my hose couldn’t go far left or right of the hole. End of OCD question. Pictures below of the broken plug and a new plug to show what exactly broke and sitting inside the rocker.

I’d go with Fluid Film. Lots of YouTube vids about it and many positive reviews. It is drip-less. Some people complain about the smell but I think it goes away after a bit. It stays wet, never dries. In fact, if it feels dry, it’s time to reapply. It is not a one-time coat. Needs to be done annually. Just be careful about applying too much product on the frame. It will soften the factory wax on the frame. If you over do it on the frame, the wax will slide off in sheets or when you pressure wash it, it will potentially blast off the soften wax. This isn’t a Fluid Film specific issue. Any oil based rust inhibitor product, over done, will soften the factory wax. I know it is counterintuitive but avoid pressure washing the undercarriage after Fluid Film. The pressure wash can remove the Fluid Film. Some mechanics will hate it I guess. Some might appreciate not having struggle to remove a rusted nut/bolt years down. I had the GM 2” lift done 1 year later at the dealer after I had it undercoated, no complaints from him.

Is it only GM doing this? Toyota, Ford, etc aren’t selling over MSRP?

CorrosionFree.com The Canadian Department of Defence did a research paper on corrosion inhibitors and Corrosion Free’s product came out on top. https://corrosionfree.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/Dept-of-Defence-Report-Highlighted-Text-copy.pdf The stuff is thick, gooey, and clear. It doesn’t drip and stays on for 18 months. The tub stuff is thicker than the aerosol cans. They deliver to the US. A bit pricey. I don’t work or have any association with CorrosionFree. I just like their product. If you’re not interested in that, Fluid Film works well from what I’ve seen and read. Something is better than nothing.