fatwhiteboy

It depends on the sound you want. Dumping the existing exhaust has a few benefits, the flappers are a joke and that muffler is about 3 times the size it needs to be. I love Borla products. I would recommend going to YouTube and listening to a few different exhausts. I know a few guys that straight piped the muffler out and the resonators in the tail pipes kill any drone. Whatever you choose, I recommend getting stainless unless it never sees salt. I have the Borla Touring system on mine and it sounds good but to do it again, I would have gone louder and I am a 64 year old fart. The Borla Touring is the same as the GM performance system. Borla makes it for GM.

The stealer told me they had to reset the brake pad indicator in the dash with their fancy pants scanner and it is not true. I bought OEM rotors and pads for Rock Auto and did them myself. The wear sensor is only on one side and comes with the pads. When I was done it reset itself back to 100%. No harder than any other disc brake job. Other sites say Akebono makes AC Delco pads, I do not know that for sure. The rears are a bit different with the routine of disengaging the electric parking brake but still save a lot of money if you do them yourself. I never heard anyone's truck going into limp mode with the wear indicator. My rears were at 10% when I changed them. There is a BS GM bulletin on the truck pad wear, and it basically says to change the pads as needed. Yet another known problem with no fix or recall in site.

This is a hot topic with the transmission folks. I have never liked transmission flushes and have always dropped the pan and replaced the filter. Many shops have been caught charging the people for a trans flush and doing nothing. My faith in all dealers is gone. In our owners manual, it says 45K for sever duty. I plan to change my 2020 at around 50K or so but will not sweat pushing it up a bit. Unless you were hauling the max towing, I would recommend not changing it at the 45K miles. There are way too many horror stories of trans flushes causing all kind of issues with these 10 speed transmissions. I already bought the filter, gasket and oil but like you, I am waiting for warmer weather to do it. I removed the crushed cross over exhaust pipe and had a muffler shop weld in a true round pipe when it was new but did not plan ahead. Now I am looking to design cross over pipe with flanges at the cats to make removing the pan a whole lot easier. Getting up to the manifold nuts and removing the oxygen sensors is not a really fun job.

It is not hard just no room to get your fingers in there. I found if you extend the damper, pop the top pivot on to the dash, then swing the door up and use a small screwdriver to slip the lower part into the glove box pivot. Like always at GM, serviceability is way down on the priority list.

I work for the company that makes the GM Articulating Running Boards. Unfortunately, I design the mechanical portion, not the electrical. They will fit and if you have an LTZ or a High Country the ARB module is already there, but you do have to go to the dealer for the wiring pig tail and worse the programming to tell your ECM that they are there. They will probably charge a $150.00 hook up at the dealer. Sorry that I cannot get you a pigtail but you may find one from a crashed truck, they are the same for all T1XX trucks (2019 to current). Ebay is my best friend. K2 and T2 are completely different. Hope I helped.

Hello Doc. I can't hear your noise but mine chirps in 2 wheel high. All wheel mode and 4 wheel is completely goes away. There is a bulletin for this and my dealer stated that I was the first to complain about it, imagine that. The Bulletin No.: PIP5653E states exactly what mine is doing. If yours sounds anything like a chirp or a grind and it goes away when you press the AWD or 4W button, it is probably the same. At this point, I have the extended warrantee and am waiting for something else to break before I have the repair this. If your sound is different look for a bulletin, they will not send it to you, you have to bring it to them. MC-10173724-9999.pdf

I just found a YouTube clip that shows a guy programming a Cadillac FOB. Dealer told me that it has to be done thru the OBD port. They got another $150.00 from me. Got to love it.

From what I read the dealer has to program it even if you can find one. They got me for $150 for a new one programmed at the local dealer. If yours still works you can take the board out and put it into a FOB that does not but has a good case.

That is correct. 2018 and earlier (K2XX) will not fit any of the 2019 (T1XX) and newer without spacers. I do not like spacers.

They sure will. If you look up the parts they use the same parts except for the shocks and struts. Even the ZR2 uses the same spindles, control arms and rotors. The shocks and struts are different.

I am not making excuses for GM or any OEM but these new vehicles are basically rolling intranets. If a communication error cannot be repeated, they cannot fix it. I have about 30K mile on mine and had several communication errors throw codes, I erased them and they never came back. Unless it throws a CEL code and it stays then you have a potential problem. With that said, the dealer stating that engineering is working on it is a crude excuse. What exactly are they working on if there is no repeatable problem? Keep your paperwork and if you have a failure after your warrantee expires a good dealer will still honor it should the same issue happen again. Good luck.

From what I have been told by the GM engineers, the speed limiter is restricted to tire speed ratings. Mine was set a 113MPH. There are many tools to raise it or turn it off. I am not advising it but the 6.2L will do over 140MPH "allegedly". Mine has a few suspension mods and is very stable at higher speeds. You will hear many stories of a friend's uncle's cousins' sister's boy friend had a drive shaft fly off. My stock drive shaft is still under the truck as it came from the factory. These aluminum shafts are very strong.

The dealer claims that you need to reflash your MAF (mass air flow sensor) to use a CAI. I bought the GM CAI that came with the flash (so they said) and have no issues but many folks with newer vehicles have tossed codes after a CAI install. It is not even close to being as nice as the competitors CIA's but it was part of the deal at the time. Your truck may "learn" as you drive it but they claim no power increase without a flash. I highly doubt that the K&N system is causing a lean condition, your A/F mixture may be on the edge and just upsetting the computer. Why did you cap your passenger side vent? I too am using the JLT that was a plug and play for the 6.2L and did not cap any breathers.

Borla use to make the GM performance exhaust for GM in 2020 and I love mine. I now have 28K mile on mine and there is no change in sound. The 6.2L is a strong engine, I would be hard pressed to go back to another 5.3 after owning the 6.2L. I hope that you will be very happy with that truck.

You can remove the assembly or cut the vanes but the servo module has to stay connected to the can bus so the ECU "thinks" that they are opening and shutting. There are no limit switches on the vanes, the motor goes to its full limits in either direction. If it does not see a current overload it "thinks" the vanes are completely closed or open. You really are not going to pick up much air flow but if you want to remove them it is not going to hurt anything. I have not found anyone that can program GM or Chrysler new ECU / ECM's to write this routine out of the code. Obviously, this will void you warranty is that matters.

I changes mine out when the truck had about 2500 miles, it now has 25K miles on it and I still love them. They are a stiffer than the Ranchos that came with it but worth it on and off road. I have never liked Rancho shocks, way to mushy and fade quickly. Well worth the money to upgrade if you plan on keeping the truck. I use Bilstein and Fox on all of my trucks and Jeeps but if money grew on a tree, I would buy Kings. Way out of my budget.

Actually, the DEF is more harmful to people then rich diesel trucks. Folks that want to save the environment need to shut down countries like China and India not a few guys that modify their vehicles. The USA has ridiculously strict emission standards compared to most of the world and guess where all of that emissions equipment comes from, CHINA!!! Very sad that we are caught in a myth of saving the planet by choking one sector of the pollution will letting other like airlines off free of ever passing any emissions.

I saw approximately 2 MPG loss on the highway with the 6.2L DFM turned off, no change in the city. I think it is all how aggressive that you drive.

Mine is a bit stiffer with the Billsteins than the stock Rancho's but I thought the Rancho's were way to sloppy.

You may have to update your make SD card if your have not yet. It is in the center console between the 2 USB ports.

Ford but buy the extended warrantee. The turbos are not lasting even in their diesels. I had two RAM's and they are not built well. Ram has the nicest looking interior, but it will not look like that in a year, not good quality at all.

Come on guys, give him a break. There are no instructions on this site where to put your comments or start a new thread until one of you whinny little girls spout off. GM has known about this lifter and cam issues since the 1970's and not done much to fix it. When you take a new vehicle to the dealer you expect them as the so called "experts" to fix it in a timely manner. I know many folks that the dealer only changed the bad lifter. For the cost of lifters verses the cost of labor why would anyone only change one lifter. Now with the government made supply chain issues, who knows when you will get parts or your vehicle back. I worked for GM and still drive primarily GM vehicles but like all manufacturers cost overrides quality. Ford and Ram are no better or worse. I would not even comment on this but this is a known problem that has not been fixed and it needs to or maybe there needs to be a class action law suit?

Sadly when you are in tow mode that is about all you will see for MPG. I have the same truck with the 6.2L and it does not pull real well. It drives great when unloaded and I have seen 20MPG on the highway but to pull my cars I use my trusty old 2016 2500 with the old school 6L. I do not know if you like the looks of the new Chevy HD trucks, I do not. I do like the GMC HD trucks and my plan is to purchase a new one if production ever get caught up.

I know other folks will tell you not to waste your money but I installed a JLT catch can and it does collect more oil than my other vehicles. All direct injection (or boosted) engines should have a catch can, so that oil doesn't not go back into your engine. A catch can is much cheaper than new injectors and other issues that burning oil can cause. I use Amsoil in all of my vehicles. I do not know who makes GM's oil but I have more faith in Amsoil and Mobil 1 oil for lubrication.