Everything posted by jnissen
My 3.0L gets used a lot for towing. I think over half the miles I have are tow miles. While towing I can get from 15 to 18MPG depending on my load. When not towing it has great mileage from 25 to a bit over 30 typical with high of 38MPG. I'm totally impressed with this combo of the diesel and the 10 speed. I don't think it ever revs past 3K RPM even when working hard. Just a very good combination.
That looks like some type of aftermarket relay. It may be part of an alarm system immobilizer. Personally I’d remove it and diagnose it that way. that being said often relays will chatter over your battery voltage is real low. You may have a couple items as problems and not just the one.
Look for a ground connection that worked loose. All these likely share the same common ground points. Also do a search as I believe the instrument panels have common issues in this model year.
I purchased a 16K dump trailer and it’s a beast. I recently got a piece of land and it’s coming in very handy. Even using the dump trailer Is not pain free. You have to watch the tow rating of your setup and electric brakes are mandatory. Just added air bags to my truck to allow it to ride more even under full load. Was a huge improvement. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Shudder prior to changing the fluid is a sign things may have been going for a while. Sounds like your in a position that’s tough. Could have u joints or worse going on as well. Did you have a pro inspect it prior to purchase? Ifs just good money to bring in expertise if your unsure. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
How many miles are on the trans? Certainly looked like a missed shift after 3. Didn’t do this before you dropped the pan? I’ve heard of new fluid forcing a marginal set of clutches over the cliff. May be what’s going on. BTW when you installed the seal I hope you didn’t drive it deeply into the hole? It needs to be driven in only about 50 thou. If you forced it deep into the recess it may still be having trouble sealing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I dropped the exhaust at the manifold to pipe connection to give room to properly drop the pan when I did mine. I believe you will need the deep pan filter. Verify with parts store. Good luck.
That looks like where the transmission filter fits into the transmission. There should be a round seal that goes into that hole. The old one likely stuck to the old filter. Your kit should have included a new seal. If you didn’t seal the new filter the pump is likely sucking air. It’s not going to work well as you found out. Drop the pan and install the seal. That broken bit is a plastic piece. It’s likely ok if it cracked as they can be damaged when seals are removed if your not careful or do not have the correct seal puller tool. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I’d tend to agree jacking the truck may not be smart but it certainly should not damage the truck. If you have load levelers I could see that they may be damaged if the angle of jacking was severe. Even going over uneven ground can make them strain some. Do they feel like they still have the same tension when attaching them? Pictures may help to communicate your setup. I’d bet your truck tires that were a deal we’re not such a great deal after all. I’d go back to the tires you know worked in the past. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Likely the LED lighting and not enough load for the module to properly see it as attached. They may have a software update to correct for that. I think it was part of some security system that would detect if the trailer were attached or removed. You could try some standard light bulbs but that defeats the whole use of the LED's!
Likely a water pump or Hoses but needs to be tested. Could be something simple like a clamp that was not tightened at time of radiator change. If you want to DIY then a video or good pics are required.
If it’s got dried mud then you need to soak them several times to loosen that up. I use a pressure washer where I can spray a detergent solution out the wand and I let that sit in there for tens of minutes. Then spray out the residue. If they are still left with a residue I find that a spray detailer will darken them up and hide the haze if it’s bad. I regularly run on dirt/gravel roads so it’s a hassle but the spray wand works wonders.
An advanced scanning tool is needed now.
At 55K miles I’d say you have had reasonable performance out of those tires. Helps to regularly rotate them but at the end of tread life there isn’t much that’s going to quiet down an aggressive tire tread that’s worn.
When new they often have to burn in the exhaust components and you may notice a slight smell from the anti corrosion coatings. Rubber smell is a bit strange. Worst case you can stop into the dealer as it could be something stupid. My daughters car had plastic shields on the brake rotors. Dealer forgot to remove them. She always smelled a burning plastic smell! Yeah worth looking into.
10 speed and the 3.0. In town getting 25-28MPG and often better than that. I rolled the dice on the 3.0 but have been impressed with how well it runs. Not your old school diesels for sure. Warms up like a gas vehicle. Towed to my weight limit hauling a dump trailer the other day. Smooth and even while towing got 15MPG.
I design automotive chips and can tell you designing for high automotive temperature ranges is very difficult. The problem with most of these systems is they use commercial flash memory for storage. If it works at 75C your lucky. Compare that to a dedicated automotive memory they still work at 175C. The cheap Chinese manufactured ones will struggle unless they have a really good screening and test program to find the weak parts.
Is the holder broken or the wiring harness damaged? Sensor clean? Had bugs once splatter on sensor and caused it to malfunction. Cleaned and it came back. Inspect the terminals carefully and make sure nothing is touching the center piezo section.
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