SteveCZ

How did you end up doing that? Through the parts catalog or just look up the shock numbers independent?

My 2014 had the infamous radiator leak at the upper hose connection. Got it replaced under warranty, with the same defective part and 6 months later, leaking again. GM released an updated part number, but I already traded the truck in on a 2020. I get the 2020 home and check the fluids the day after, and the coolant is low! C'mon Man! I top it off, and come to find out, it was just an air pocket in the heater core. It burped and was fine since. I do wonder if some of the radiators still have the same issues in small batches......

Can you just order the shocks or do you have to get the springs? I get the fronts are easier with the springs already as one unit, but the leafs?

Any updates on this? I still don't see anything specifically available for my truck. If anyone has ordered this, is it just the shocks, or does it come with springs for front and rear?

I had to do a similar thing on an old Buick Regal (2011). Every once in a while, the auto climate control would lose its mind, and blow hot air in the summer, or cold air in the winter. Frustrating when you started the car to either cool or warm it up.... having to pop the panel off to pull the fuse, then wait, and HOPE it worked. Glad I got rid of that thing....

So I just checked GMC's accessory page, and when I set the vehicle to my 2020 AT4, the shock package doesn't show up. Only for the updated body style 23's. Any thoughts?

To add to this, from my experience, Walmart has the best deals on the 5 qt jugs of oil, whatever brand you choose. Normally, for me, it is 0w20 Mobil 1 5 qt jugs. I get two, and just have some leftover for the next change.

I've read this topic: However, it only give the part numbers, of which, only one works currently on the AC Delco site. Does anyone know if these shocks will in fact fit (and work) on a standard AT4 without updating the springs (both coils and leafs)? I see the price on AC Delco is only ~ $500 per shock..... hence why I'm considering the upgrade.

I can't comment on the 8 speed shifts, as I have a 10 speed, however, I'm curious on your morning start up. Do you start the truck, let it come down from high idle, and settle in, then drive away, or do you start the truck cold, then immediately put it in reverse and drive away? Wondering if the truck just needs a few seconds to get itself sorted. Just brainstorming.....

I've had the antenna scrape a few times ( AT4 ), didn't have the wherewithall to open the sunroof and slap the beams though....

So, my 130 degrees range, is after an hour drive up to the Adirondack mountains, overall about 1200 feet of increase in elevation, some hills, some flat spots. Still stays at 130. 2020 AT4, 5.3 with 10 speed. Towing my sled trailer, on same trip, maybe 140s. My old 2014, with the 6 speed, I could fry an egg on it, mainly because of the thermostat in it, 195-210 all day long.....

Generally, around 115-135 not towing. Maybe 150's towing, but it is a light snowmobile trailer (1600 lbs of trailer, and 600lb sleds, 2 each, so 3k pounds tops?).

Wow, almost a two year old topic! So far, the only time it leaks is when I go through the touch free car wash (high pressure), and even then, it is slight. Still no foam installed.

My concern is the lowered level in the overflow tank. I guess I'll keep an eye on it now that I've added some. I see the 2.7 turbo has a way to purge air out of the system without starting the motor, interesting, must be an electric water pump?

So, I tried searching for this in this forum, and found nothing. I had a similar problem with my 2014 GMC, where the radiator had a small leak at the fitting for the hose. I don't see any signs of a leak, but when it is warm, I sure can smell it. I checked my reservoir and it is halfway between the bottom and the "Full Cold" mark (if you want to call it that.... ). I've added coolant back to it and will keep an eye on it. Also, if I get in the truck and start it, I will hear "gurgling" coming from the heater core area, so I'm not sure if I have air in the system now or not.... Any other out there having this issue? Is there a TSB?

If you are in New Hampshire like your name says, why not just go to "NHOU Undercoatings"?

I'm assuming it has the 10 speed transmission? If so, wait until 1900 miles, then the third gear shift solenoid in the valve body will grenade.... ask me how I know..... Other than that fiasco, truck has been solid. 24mpg on a trip to New Hampshire unloaded.

Well, that escalated quickly.....

Oh, you mean like running different (heavier) weight oil than the manual states, because "0w20 looks way too thin when I pour it in the engine", or "I don't need to run this fancy synthetic witchcraft oil in my truck, I can put 1960's straight 30 weight as long as I change it every 3000 miles!" Because the engineers that designed these engines didn't spend ANY time analyzing data.........

29 psi at idle? Must be fully warmed up? Cold, my pressure is at the middle, and if I go above 3K on the RPM when cold, pressure shoots up to 80psi? When idling either in gear or out, when warm, yes, around 30 psi. Driving, 60-80

I realize this isn't totally related, but I had a similar issue on my 2014 Sierra. They attempted the alignment, then had to swap one of the mounts. The truck only had maybe a few thousand miles on it, and did it from day one. After the fix, you couldn't tell the engine was running. Just my $0.02

Curious how you like the Fox shox, and if you have a link to where to buy them?

Noticed mine doing the same thing. Like mentioned above, I'll wait until a "new" batch of them come out, HOPEFULLY fixing the issue, so I only have to do it once....

Watch the first 2 minutes, he says the factory one didn't work....

A small batch of issues with the 10 speed tranny. I was one of them. 1900 miles, 3rd gear shift solenoid in the valve body crapped out. Replaced under warranty, been fine since (15k now). The talk about the failed lifters begs me to ask the question, is normal maintenance performed on these trucks, and is the proper oil used when maintenance is required? The reason I ask, first, is I don't know, and secondly, I had a 5.3 with AFM (2014), with 110k on the motor. I changed the oil when it told me, with a DEXOS approved oil, in the proper weight (not naming brands, it shouldn't matter), and that motor was flawless. The ONLY problem I had with it was a few of the exhaust manifold bolts let go, so I had a leak. I got that fixed and all was good.