Badass69

Flip the bracket around to attach to the washer bottle. That said I have a piece of 3/8" stainless tubing off the valve on mine thay drains over past the pcm so I can easily get a pop bottle under it Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

I think I used the bolt holding the windshield washer bottle to attach mine. Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

Nope... you want to pay for the dyno time and my company hourly rate go nuts and I will post all the results you want.... lol. Its free and it opens up the box. All the cold air intakes you buy do this but of course just to under the hood air. The gmt900 box was this airbox minus the piece with the foam that blocks off the lower opening. They made these trucks more restrictive. .. with more airflow demand... good job GM. Now I have a good filtering free flowing intake and the total cost was a MIT tube from Airaid. Besides when I did dyno a few weeks ago something was clipping me from building or maintaining power above 5000 rpm. This can't hurt the cause. Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

Hacked up my 2015s airbox. Went from this To this Now it's actually a decent air intake lol. Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

It's just a slow project. It's s 60' x 30' split into 2 30 x 30 bays basically. This side is work and engine building and the other is just parking. I had no lights beyond 4 100 watt incandescent lights originally lol. I added 2 more bases and put 6 100 watt led equivalents in daylight in. They work awesome really.. but the T5's are almost too much really. I might do the whole thing in them but it will be pretty blinding lol. Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

Ha! Figured out my fixture that wouldn't work and my dead neutrals in my ceiling. Hooks the hots and has them all tied together and live but leaves the neutrals disconnected in another random switch box... good work... lol. Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk Brightened the old bench up... might do my whole shop in T5s... makes my led lights look dim lol.

I am an electrician and an instrument tech.... I don't use them. My meter is a lot more reliable and no false signals.

Don't need one.... and they really don't work all that great either. My luck is some dumbass rammed a drywall screw through the cable and broke the neutral. I much prefer conduit on the outside for this very reason.... and not residential garbage where wire markers are never used.

Putting up lights in my shop and fighting with an ignorant T5 fixture... and wiring problems from the shop itself. I have a bunch of neutrals and none go back to the neutral bar in the breaker panel.... I love troubleshooting wiring hidden in walls... Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

Stock paper ones from GM. I had the Airaid dry unit in the truck but a few months ago I posted pictures showing how the rubber lip on the filter is a lot smaller in height and narrower than the GM one and the Airaid leaked dirt around it. The paper filter doesn't show any loss of performance or airflow and I don't have to clean it..

Without searching all these posts has anyone on here run the 3.5" system Gibson makes for the 6.2 trucks? I have MBRP on my 2015 right now and this junk might make it another year or two before it has holes in it...... that's how bad it's rotting. It's embarrassing on a truck that otherwise looks great underneath except for this shitty exhaust. I am looking for an alternative to this and want something that isn't constructed from T409...... T304 is where it is at. Now Gibson says their tips are T304 but just say "stainless" for the tubing and muffler..... so what grade is it made from?

Sigh... I have tungsten but my original pick was a 2015 Silverado brownstone with cocoa dune loaded double cab 6.2 powered Z71. The truck ended up being demolished by baseball sized hail.... Here we are 8 months later and the dealer still has it... had paintless dent removal done on what could be and then a new hood and windshield. Roof is still beat up... but I still want that truck lol... I can get body and paint for cheap. They have it about 15000 off but need to do better... my truck I have now was more than that off and it was damage free bought in October of 2015 lol. I have a Tundra I don't like at all and would love to dump and pick that truck up... if I can get it for mid 30s or out the door so how it sits ( 58505 is the original sticker) I just might bite. Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

You have a 5.3 truck.... go under it and measure the pipe lol. It's 3.5" on a 6.2..... I know that because I own one and did exhaust on it. But if you are doing long tubes who cares.... just order a kit for a 6.2 and then it won't matter.

6.2 should be 3.5" from Y pipe connection to muffler.... the rest of the system varies lol. My truck ( 2015 6.2) is 3.5" pipe where the catback connects to the Y pipe..... the 5.3 trucks are 2 3/4" or 2 7/8".. one or the other. If you are buying headers ( OP) just get the factory connect Y pipe for a 6.2 truck..... no fitment problems with a factory 6.2 exhaust that way.

The third cat is downstream of those O2 sensors so what it does or doesn't do is not monitored. Sounds like you screwed up an oxygen sensor. Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

Lol... I am such a scab. Tungsten/iridium is the most common color of the guys company trucks I work with. One buddy just left me his keys one weekend and I "upgraded" his iridium SLE with chrome mirror caps and handles so my LTZ could get the paint matched stuff lol. Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

Join the 2 valve covers together and then replace the valve cover oil fill cap with a clean side separator and hook it to the air intake. I have E2-X on my 6.2 and that's how they do it with them..... or the 5.3 as in that regard they are identical. The 5.3's just have their pickup from the factory PCV in a different spot which is towards the rear of the valley cover where the 6.2 it's right on the front.

I'm an 8 speed owner and I am tuned as of yesterday. We fiddled with the truck for a couple hours on the dyno. Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

Or HP... especially with the latest 3.0 update. I sold my efilive today lol. Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

I did a few hundred miles with mine on and drained it out. As I expected the mixture is about 90% water and then a touch of oil skim/fuel. My intake was clean before install at 15000 miles so this is exactly what I expected. Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

There is a lot more detriment to the 4 cylinder mode than crappy lifters....... oil consumption from ring coking becomes a reality in the cylinders that deactivate. I have torn lots of the LS ones down and that's what happens with the constant cycling..... I deactivated mine via tuning today on my 2015 and if it ever gives me a bit of trouble it's all the reason to do a cam swap and delete it mechanically.

If you are worried about warranty they will look for reflashes on a big claim anyway.... but if you are worried about them just updating and overwriting you then I see the point. The Hypertech says right on their site you can set the limiter as high as 255 mph so yes it would work.

Just did mine this morning oddly enough lol. The pic that Jay P has is correct.... just switch it to ECM and then set it to whatever you want it at...... or so high the truck could never reach it. I used EFILive after I updated it to the latest and greatest and licensed my ECM. It's $125 to buy a license..... but I already own the software so that's not what it costs someone else lol. My trucks speed limiter is now dead and active fuel management is shut off permanently. Those were the 2 biggest things I actually cared about lol.

Tossed my elite E2-X on my truck today. Went pretty smooth overall so no complaints. I mounted the can using the bolt that holds the washer bottle to the core support so it's nice and close to work with. I bent a piece of 3/8" stainless with a simple 90 and installed a 90 degree Swagelok 3/8" fitting in the valve so it now will drain easily just out past the PCM. Lots of room to stick a water bottle or whatever under it now. I used another Swagelok 90 with a stub of 3/8" tube to connect the hose that goes to my clean side separator. I have an Airaid tube so it's not the stock arrangement. Just stuck a 1/2" NPT pipe plug in it for now but I will snag a 1/2" steel conduit plug we use in transmitters at work so it will sit flush and look nicer. When I popped off the throttle body there was basically zero oil in there..... just enough to make a mess on your hand but overall pretty dry. I can't complain lol. That's with 15000 miles of hard driving on my 2015's 6.2. Now I will see what the can gets in it.... I imagine from my findings it will be mostly water.

It's a butterfly valve with a spring attached to it..... there isn't a whole lot they can "change" to make it any different lol. Unless they have better bushings for it to ride in or something so it has less chance of binding.