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Badass69

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Everything posted by Badass69

  1. 4.10s and gm's 8 speed with stock tire diameter basically gives you what Ram offers with their deeper geared zf 8 speed and 3.92's... it would be awesome actually... well but the lack of traction won't be lol. Good luck with finding 4.10's though.... 6.2 trucks and max tow 5.3 trucks have the 9.76" ring gear and not the 9.5"... so 3.73 is as deep as these go using 6 speed max tow parts. Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk
  2. Fords big ploy is how stiff the chassis is compared to a competitors c channel frame. They do a comparison by strapping the frame down and hanging weights off the corners and measuring twist... the f150 hardly moves... like less than an inch with x amount of hundred pounds and the Tundra twists like a pretzel as it will being a regular old c channel. Either way.... Unless the frame is significantly thinner, which it isn't, they are a rigid chassis truck and they don't vibrate in any mass amount anyhow. Mind you I have yet to find someone with a 2014+ GM complain of vibration in real life and I work around a fleet of about 50 of them at any given time.... I own a 2015 Tundra that one of my employees drives.... and it's no gods gift to trucks.... personally when i drive it compared to my last 2013 Ford and this new Chev its outdated junk lol. But it doesn't vibrate and unless it costs me a bunch of money in repairs she can continue with it... I have not seen the truck since August and couldn't care less lol. I just don't think the fact the GM trucks frames are boxed is the root to why they vibrate when other manufacturers can do the same thing and have no issues. Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk
  3. My 2013 F150s had fully boxed chassis's.... they don't vibrate... but then neither does my 2015 Silverado that I have really noticed. All Ford half tons are boxed frames so I really don't see that as an issue... if they don't vibrate then these shouldn't be either. Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk
  4. No I really don't...... The battery was probably but since I sold it for $50 after I junked it that can be someone else's problem.
  5. The day after I brought my 2015 home from the dealer brand new ( and put over 500 miles on it in the process) it sat for about a week with nothing aftermarket going on in it. When I went to fire it up to use it the battery was dead to the point it just clicked the starter solenoid. I pulled the Delco out and tossed in a Odyssey to eliminate that problem from reoccurring as I assumed the battery was the likely culprit.... and 4 months later never another issue. Yes they can indeed go dead while sitting.... and you never know if the battery will be causing you grief.
  6. Yeah something isn't right with the overheating thing. ... especially travelling down the road just driving. Unless somehow your rad is so ubstructed by the blade or the plow it should never overheat.... there is no load. Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk
  7. Take any brand new truck to a competing dealer shortly after purchase and try and trade it in. Unless it's some local area hot seller they can unload quickly they will lowball you to death...It's how they make money lol. I had a new GM truck quite a long time ago (2001 or so) and we tried to dump it when it was about 11 months old... paid around 36K for it and with about 6000 miles they offered us 19000...... It's life lol. Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk
  8. An 18 volt drill battery will jump a truck in a pinch lol. But if you are stone dead... sorry... still screwed. Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk
  9. My company truck and personal are now one in the same. I carry everything you can imagine..... short of needing the crane I could pull the engine on the side of the road lol.
  10. I have 18s but run 40 all the way around and they don't feel odd nor look squashed. In my case it's a 10 ply tire.. the stiff sidewall helps lol. Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk
  11. With the resonator in along with the rest of the stock piping and cats a chunk of pipe in place of the muffler isn't crazy loud either. I really don't see much in the way of noise dampening from an orifice plate and edge of a witches hat lol. Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk
  12. Flapper is on the outlet of the muffler. It's a square little box on a shaft. There is a spring inside the square part to snap the valve shut when there is low or no flow. Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk
  13. The 5.3's stock piping is 2.75" but the aftermarket is all 3". Some 6.2's have 3" tailpipes and some have 3.5". Prior to the muffler all 6.2's are 3.5" regardless. A lot of the crew cab 6.2's I looked at had the 3" tailpipe but my double cab truck was 3.5" all the way through except where it necked down into the flapper valve. Good old GM lol. Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk
  14. Gm has used this wax shit for decades... my 86 Blazer would have had it but it's been gone for decades. Local dealer has an 86 Chev 4x4 1/2 ton they put in the show room every year... has just over 100 original miles... it's a time capsule. It's frame wax looks pretty good though lol! Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk
  15. Aam has been making gm's rear diffs for a very long time... circa 1994. They make rear ends for FCA (Chrysler) as well as pretty well every other manufacturer out there..... Sent from a potato
  16. All that matters to the engine is cat forward.... unbolt the exhaust and beyond sounding like a demolition derby junker it will run the same. The only reason someone's 4 cylinder is less active is they are on the throttle listening to the truck lol. Sent from a potato
  17. It scratches and swirls like any other dark color.... and in my case chips like crazy! I do like the color though and it looks alright even with the chrome. I might peel the lettering off but i think I will leave the strips on the doors. My 3m goes up to the bottom of that chrome strip anyway. Sent from a potato
  18. I'm about ready to go back to paper.... factory nav is always useless and can't find the address even if it's in a place that's 100 years old. Not only that but the method to input is almost always a fight. However lately Google has been an utter fail too and sends me to places that don't exist because it's a couple streets off.... even if I have the correct address entered. I don't know what's going on there as it keeps happening more frequently to me. Paper at least is right as long as the street existed at the time of publishing. Sent from a potato
  19. Got my 3.5" MBRP on my truck today finally. The stocker came off nice because everything is so new and not driven lol. I just wiggled the factory exhaust out in one piece and threw it up for sale.... spent more time trying to get the GM 4" tip they just ram over the tailpipe off... Gave up as I will destroy that tip before it actually slides off. Had the new one on in about 20 minutes and took it for a drive. Drone is basically null and it just sounds good when you are on the throttle. Even in V4 I didn't notice really anything worth noting for drone. Needless to say I am happy with it.... until I put headers and no cats thus having straight pipe just like my one other truck... lol. Sent from a potato
  20. I agree. I hear them on the highway whereas the stock sra's were silent. I have an LTZ that is otherwise stock and the truck is quiet but the KO2'S do make some noise. It's not awful but it's there. Price I pay for running shoddy roads that eat highway tires. Sent from a potato
  21. If it's the same I just had the transfer case recall done on my 15 6.2 LTZ and it's a reprogram to the tccm for cold weather operation of the 4 wheel drive system. Shouldn't have anything to do with vibrating. Sent from my potato
  22. Exactly.... above me.. I had my tires swapped with BF KO2's in the stock 265/65/18 size at my local Ford dealership and they didn't care about balancing the rims on this truck any different than anything else. Truck had no vibration before and nothing now so it's not like it's every truck. I will say I test drove a Max Trailer crew cab with 20's and it vibrated above about 60 mph but mine doesn't do a thing. If it's inherent to the chassis design they would all do it. That and members having tires swapped and rear diffs rebuilt and curing the problem wouldn't occur either. Sent from my potato
  23. The gaskets where the pump mates to the block are relatively common to fail too and produce a slow leak. If the weep hole is dry that is the next area to scrutinize.
  24. I have always found Bilsteins to ride like garbage honestly.... may as well have a chunk of 2x4 bolted from the frame to the control arm or rear end. That's my experience over the course of 3 different trucks with Bilstein 5100's now so I won't buy them anymore. The Ram half ton is okay with them but very stiff...... my 04 3/4 ton rode like crap either way so the shocks didn't improve it's ride or bounce control and now this old stock suspension 170000 mile 1500HD rides worse with new Bilsteins than it did with 80000 mile KYB's. The best riding shocks I ever had wereKYB Monomaxes... and I regret replacing my 80000 mile kybs with these 5100 Bilsteins as even with 1200 lbs in the bed constantly 10000 miles later they are still stiff as a board. Conversely my 2015 Silverado I just bought rides like crap for an empty half ton and it's an non z71 LTZ... we will see if my tool box load improves it's ride at all. This is coming from someone who dailies a 2005 1500HD Sierra... so I know what a stiff ride is especially since it's the truck I have the Bilsteins on currently and will probably be taking them off and ordering more KYB's..... That 2015 half ton doesn't really ride any better than this 1500HD and I have a lot more suspension ( evident by towing with both) than this new half ton.... so there is no excuse for such a shitty ride quality beyond the shocks and struts. Bilstein shocks... Duratrac Tires and Detroit Trutracs are all things I find love for on forums and never in real life lol.
  25. I added the Airaid Junior to mine the other night. I didn't do it for performance.... I more or less never do. I do it to delete that mess of silencers under the hood and open up the engine bay. Now that the batwing cover is gone off my truck I can actually see my 6.2..... and the belt..... and the waterpump and hoses, etc. The sound change is awesome too... sounds closer to on par with my 6.2 powered F150 which is what I wanted. And I have the dry filter which is fully washable and reusable. Did it do anything for horsepower?...... I will say no it didn't and I don't care. I have a nicer more open engine bay and the truck sounds better. If you don't know the junior kits retain the stock air box and thus are an actually CAI just like the oem setup.....
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