Badass69

Had my KO2's installed yesterday and I unloaded the 500 mile original SRA's this morning. I went with the stock size as I am not doing this for looks at 265/65/18 and the KO2 is a touch smaller than the SRA as my speedo reads high now versus bang on before... but it's very little, maybe 1 mph out. I shopped a bit and being I am in Alberta Kal Tire is the dealer for them. Local Ford dealer beat Kal by about $200 so needless to say that's where they put them on. It was kind of nice to have those guys work on this new Chev briefly. ... it's the last dealer I visited with the F150 I traded for this Chev that told me they couldn't fix my Ford. .. the tech saw me and asked me if my Ford was any better. My reply? .... It was so good I sold it lol. Sent from my potato

Got my MBRP kit today for my 2015 double cab's 6.2. I will probably toss the third cat if I can and or just hollow the thing out as well as this exhaust. There is enough pipe in the kit I could probably delete that third one but I doubt its front connection is the same as the rear thus I would have to go somewhere and get it welded. If that be the case, gutting will suffice. It should sound good I am thinking either way.

I don't mind Tungsten but would have preferred Brownstone. Every new truck where I work ( so at this point they have taken delivery of at least 12 of them now for this cycle) is Tungsten..... So my new truck looks just like everyone else's truck except for all the additional tacky chrome from being an LTZ. I guess it makes it easy to switch door handles as the chrome ones on mine along with the mirror caps and all the other chrome gaudiness looks awful, lol.

Maybe but that's pretty chincy. This would be the first truck I have owned ever that shakes so bad it feels like it will fall apart with weight on the back. Once my tool boxes and stuff are in this truck that will really tell the story Sent from my potato

I have read some of the posts here... not reading it all as the thread is stupidly long now at close to 6000 posts however.... and nope, back to normal empty. Either it's the trailer itself or the driveshaft angle in how it was loaded. Already took it out as I said above and it's fine again. My vibration wasn't like a lot of this thread where it's an annoying resonance you feel in the console and obviously drive you crazy.... it was like I had mud built up in the rear rims. Like I said though, it's fine now. It's going to get my tool boxes for work in the next week or two which is an easy 1000 lbs of weight and will have new tires before that as the p series stuff it has are useless on gravel. Then we shall see if it vibrates. Sent from my potato

Trailer back empty and then the truck on its own is smooth once again. Strange but who knows. Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

I got my new 15 double cab 2 days ago and I ended up towing around 7500 to 8000 lbs with it home last night. It vibrated very badly at anything under 70 mph... and smoothed out at that. It's weird as dropping gears or kicking it into neutral did nothing to change it either. Empty the truck was smooth and it also was towing the same load earlier in the day and was smooth as well... I towed a lighter truck (about 6000 lbs combined with trailer) mid day around 100 miles and again was smooth. I will unhook today and see what it does empty but it acts a lot like tires which what it has on it now will be gone next week. I may have slipped a tire on the rim being an ass honestly but who knows. Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

This is the only thing bugging me right now. If all goes well my current daily that is driving me insane with issues (not a gm truck not that it matters) is going to be traded on a 2015 double cab 4x4 6.2 truck. I test drove a 2015 crew 6.5' 6.2 NHT and at anything over 60 mph the truck started to vibrate. If I get one the p rated tires they have aren't even leaving the lot as they won't last on pit run so hopefully it doesn't vibrate. Seems luck if the draw though.... Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

I had 2 really clean 800's..... an 04 2500 light duty crew short 4x4 and an 03 1500HD up until about a year ago. Both relatively low mile ( 75000 and 105000), no rust, and loaded cloth trucks ( Bose/buckets/digital climate/steering wheel controls/DL3's etc). I sold both because quite frankly I didn't drive either of them nor needed them.... I have 6 trucks as it is lol.... didn't need 2 more. 2 friends bought them so I see them often anyway and they are looked after. I still have my 05 1500 HD though and likely always will. It's a rotten mess...... needs front fenders, doors, box sides and who knows what else. Has 160000 miles on it but it was already rusting away when I got with 50000 miles 4.5 years ago. Always a western truck too so I dunno if it went in a sulphur plant or what before I got it. Even trucks unwashed don't usually rust this bad.... and it's weird rust too as its not the common spots rotting out. The paint just falls off of it and then of course the steel rots...... it's like the body is a sacrificial anode of some kind. Thus far I have collected 3 rust free doors and the passenger front fender. Oddly they are all white too like the truck lol. Now I just need one more door, drivers fender and a bed. Finally after searching for ages found a nice set of tan cloth buckets with the arm rests! Truck had a 40/20/40 stock( digital climate and steering wheel controls though) and I converted to a console shortly after purchase but never had the right seats.... and I like the arm rest. The frame scares me on it though lol...... I have been over the top anal at cleaning this heap attempting to stop corrosion but who knows..... time will tell when I pull the bed. I think it's actually okay but I check the tube crossmember closely. I have sentimental attachment to the old beast.... it started the business with me I have now and was easily the best vehicle I have ever owned so I will get it back to how it should look!.

A good synthetic oil is all a gov lock requires. The locking action although using friction discs as a damper is purely mechanical so it doesn't need anything crazy. Don't use a friction modifier if you do change the oil... just use straight synthetic gear lube. The lock plate locks the spider gear to the carrier and a flyweight keeps it engaged and then disengages it above the set speed of around 25 mph. It's a simple design so there really are no tricks for it per say. Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

The good old Gov Lock locked up and wouldn't release. Eatons revolutionary design that has been exactly the same since it was released 42 years ago in 1973 lol. It's not good if the lock plate is binding in there somehow to the point the flyweight isn't disengaging it. If it released though unless something broke the dealership won't find anything and will just send you on your merry way.

Hmm. If you are running with more advance and still have power enrichment delay enabled that could easily heat the truck up. Power enrichment delay holds the engine to stoich at wide open throttle and high rpm for a full minute. With that disabled among a lot of other changes but still the stock fueling tables I run 10 more degrees of spark advance across the board on LQ4's. They run great honestly even on 87 octane with no knock... because that's how terrible the stock tune is too. I have done e fans plus home made efilive custom tunes on 5 1500HDs now lol. Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

I would still go after the rad or the water pump. Especially the pump. The fans don't need to come on above 40 mph... there is more air movement from the force of the truck than any fan could ever create. The factory e fans are a great upgrade over that junk clutch fan those trucks had. Look at it this way... his 1500hd is legal to tow 9900 lbs... a new 6.2 is what.. over 12000 lbs now. And they run e fans and don't overheat.... He stated he has the oem gm fans so they are not an issue. Tranny temp is relevant as is the engine oil cooler. A person could remove both those from the radiator and simply run them to stand alone coolers.... but that is probably just a bandaid for something else. I would still look hard at the water pump or even the lower rad hose. It might be collapsing but for 2 to do that and those are so short.. I doubt it. Although for leaks and not overheating I went through 6 water pumps on my 05 1500HD in about a year... including the oem big dollar gm ones. Finally have one now that doesn't have something wrong with it. Unless the op says otherwise because he or someone swapped it 1500HD's use the LQ4 with a 4L80E behind it just like the 2500HD and up trucks do. Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

Realistically in the oem world the overall tire diameter on the trucks is pretty well identical regardless. Rim size doesn't matter at all. What matters is overall tire diameter. If you go bigger than any oem size gm does they won't be able to set the speedo and odometer with the factory tool. They will have to use an aftermarket programmer of some kind. Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

Changed front brake calipers and an oil change on my apprentices Ram. Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

Hell no lol. I hauled the old 05 into town to let a shop swap the seal.... and in its last hurrah it tried to fall off the trailer. No 4wd and its snowing so stuff is slippery. Touch the throttle... and I mean just off idle and it spins, pulls sideways and almost falls off the ramp... Thankfully I have a winch so sucked it back on the trailer and borrowed a floor jack to lift the back of the truck and center it on the deck again. Them off it came. My spare tire carrier on the trailer us getting cut off too... its always in the way as it sticks up beside the deck. It broke the front of my inner fender but didn't wreck the valence thankfully. Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

Lemme see.... since the 05 is being replaced it has decided to implode. Today I did waterpump number 5 ( went $400 OEM gm this time), this is its third encoder motor assembly ( again a new OEM gm one), and the front driveshaft seal on the t case started puking.... and the seal is a misery... its a 2 piece rotating thing that presses into the case as well as on the shaft... I gave up and booked it in a shop tomorrow for it. Getting the old abortion out is one thing but not screwing up the new one going back in is another... Oh well. And I started my modding of my new one. First off was toss the ugly step bars off and yank the front licence plate bracket. Next will be pulling off most of the decals on it, tint, 3m, mudflaps, exhaust and a tune. All with 20 miles on the odometer lol. Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

Honestly for most guys 2600-2800 is just fine. I personally like a little more but then the cam and heads dictate that. If the engine is stock mostly less than 3000 will be nice. Converters aren't all equal though. A loose 3000 will drive worse than a tight 3500. Yank, PI, and Circle D all make nice stuff. Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

Stock converter in general. Its just heavy and very inefficient. It stalls to around 2600 rpm in my trucks but in no way does anything for acceleration Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

Yep. Add an hd2 shuft kit if you want to but otherwise the stockers are very durable. A better torque converter is a wise investment though. The stock one is such a pig. Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

Its been done so many times you can get the parts you need all over the net now. You can even get plug and play harnesses so you don't have have to segment swap the tune or do the old reverse polarity with a relay trick. Its nowhere as easy as swapping in another 60e... that's monkey work. But its a do it once and never worry again type of thing for most people anyway. Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

Why? Your driveshafts are splined to your transfer case... nothing to do with the trans. Length wise yes but that's easy for any driveshaft shop. Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

This is coming from 4 WD experience but whatever lol. You guys can all do lifts, gears, engine performance ad ons but can't swap a tranny.... lol. Whatever suits your fancy. Its just a suggestion. I have no input on 60e's as they are a waste of time IMO. Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

Its really not at all. Then no more 4L60E bs ever again. Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

4L80E swap... never worry about it again. Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk