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Showing results for tags 'Maintenance'.
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Currently working on a 6.0L V8 (2000 LQ9 I believe) and cannot seem to locate the PCV valve and hose (see image for reference). I was under the impression that they weren’t integrated into the valve cover until around 2005. The body of this truck is a 2000 Sierra 1500 but the engine was replaced from the 4.8 to the 6.0 at some point so I’m guessing for a lot of the component locations. First time poster, any helps appreciated.
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"Opinion ‘Car Talk’ host: Independent auto shops deserve the right to repair your car September 28, 2022 at 7:00 a.m. EDT (Washington Post staff illustration; images by iStock) Ray Magliozzi is one half of NPR’s show “Car Talk,” a longtime independent repair-shop owner, a Dear Car Talk columnist and a car reviewer on CarTalk.com. When your car breaks, what do you do? Okay, after you utter a certain word? You have to decide where to take the car to get it fixed, right? You really have two choices. You can go to the dealership or an independent repair shop. However, some car manufacturers don’t want to share key information for diagnosing and fixing cars with independent shops — and that’s something that’s not only bad for repair shops but also bad for you. As a radio host who has advised thousands on their car problems and as an independent shop owner myself, I know all too well that car owners benefit when they have more choices. Congress is considering a national “right-to-repair” law, and lawmakers need to pass it to protect your rights as a consumer. Story continues below advertisement Back in the old days, when people were still switching over from traveling by mastodon, you repaired cars with your eyes, ears, nose and hands — and, if you were desperate, a Chilton repair manual. Now, you often repair a car by first plugging a computer into the on-board-diagnostics port and seeing what the computer tells you is broken. So, what’s the problem? Carmakers and their dealerships want to maintain control of modern diagnostic tools, which forces customers to come to them for repairs. Even though independents are willing to pay to license these tools, dealers see an advantage in exclusivity. Dealerships have always had certain advantages. They have better coffee in their waiting rooms. Heck, they have waiting rooms. They have clean restrooms that don’t double as auxiliary air-filter storage. They also work on your particular make of car all day, every day. So they might be familiar with an oddball problem because they’ve worked on 4,000 Camrys. Story continues below advertisement Independent shops are small businesses, run by individuals — some of whom are terrific people and mechanics and some of whom will blame your car troubles on demonic possession and give you essential oils to fix it. But independent shops have their own advantage: price. Their labor and parts costs are usually much lower — hey, who do you think is ultimately paying for the dealerships’ coffee and fancy couches? Some research has found that dealers, on average, charged as much as 20 percent more than independent shops for the same repairs. This article was featured in the Opinions A.M. newsletter. Sign up here for a digest of opinions in your inbox six days a week. There’s also the matter of distance. Not every town in the United States has a stop light, let alone a dealership for every car brand. There are 16,752 franchised car dealers in the United States, according to the National Automobile Dealers Association, but there are nearly 240,000 repair shops — meaning that for a lot of people, an independent shop is the only nearby option. Story continues below advertisement At Car Talk, there are times we’ll strongly recommend an independent shop for standard work like brakes, shocks, the engine and regular service. And there are times we’ll recommend going to the dealership, like when you have a particularly rare problem that might be unique to your make and model. But at the end of the day, you should take your car to the dealer to be fixed because you want to not because dealers have hoarded all the key information. Beyond the information needed to diagnose and fix your car, dealerships also want to maintain control of your car’s telematics. What are telematics? Well, now that everything is connected to the internet, your car can notify your dealer when your car needs an oil change or has a blown sensor. Using the software they’re denying to independent shops, the dealer can then diagnose the trouble code, call you and schedule a repair. Most modern cars already have this ability. Car manufacturers point to the importance of keeping your car’s data safe — including your location, say — as a reason to deny independent shops access to these tools and codes. They are right about the need for data security, but part of privacy is that you should be the one to decide who has access to your data. Story continues below advertisement At least 17 states have laws on the books stating that your vehicle’s data belongs to you. Many independent repair shops will need to invest in tools to keep customer data secure, but just because they’ll need to invest doesn’t mean they can’t compete with dealers. Lack of choice — and competition — is never good for the consumer. So consumer groups and independent shops are promoting what they call right-to-repair legislation, guaranteeing consumers more choice by requiring automakers to license their data with independent repair shops. The voters in my fair state of Massachusetts approved just such a law in 2020. In 2021, 27 states introduced or passed similar legislation. Beyond those state laws, there’s a national push to protect consumers and independent shops. H.R. 6570, a national right-to-repair bill, has been sitting with the House Energy and Commerce Committee for months. My Car Talk colleagues and I know not everyone will support right-to-repair laws. Dealerships won’t like the level playing field. Mechanics might not like how much work they’ll actually have to do. Still, this is an issue everyone else can get behind. If you own something, you should be able to choose where to repair it. " -
****6/27/22 New info on parts and labor times - this video will be updated to provide more current info. *** 5/16/22 - With all of the negative talk and concern over this service at 150k miles for the duramax 3.0, I felt the need to figure out how much it really would cost. And of course, I put together a quick video. Here are the details as of 5/16/2022 Based on my math (numbers may vary depending on your area Labor $1095 Parts $ 200 GM Part Numbers Oil Pump Belt - 55493234 Oil Pump Sprocket Bolt - Coming Soon Rear Engine Cover - 55515618 RTV Sealant 19369831- 7 replies
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Adding a zone 6.5 inch lift on my 2014 sierra. It has roughly 135k miles on engine. I just replaced front struts and sway bar links (even though kit comes with new links)..realized that after fact. I have steel cast control arms and curious what I should replace? A lot of people on facebook suggest the congnito or zone upper control arms but they are $500 just for the set. I was wondering if I could replace just the ball joints/tie rod ends when I install kit and then down the road replace UCA's with cognito...or is the stock cast steel control arm and ball joint all one piece? Meaning i cant just replace the ball joint? Just looking for some feedback and suggestions. i will have my son in truck a lot so that is why i want to be extra sure I have a solid front end. Any feedback, your pictures of 6.5 inch lifts, and experience with maintenance is appreciated. Been awhile since i posted on here!!
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Hi there, I bought a used 2011 Chevy Tahoe 4WD with 151k. As soon the car is released and street legal in Germany, I do a full oil/fluid replacement incl. all filters + spark plugs and spark plug wires. In regards to my engine oil change, this is my plan: 1st engine oil change I plan to use an oil sludge remover to "clean" the engine from inside. Its called Liqui Moly Oil Sludge Flush. With the new engine oil, I plan to add Liqui Moly Hydraulic Lifter Additive . 2nd engine oil change (...when its due next time) I plan to use another engine cleaner called RAVENOL Professional Engine Cleaner to make sure that all debris are removed as much as possible. With the new engine oil, I plan to add an additive called TriboTEX Original In regards to coolant change I want to use a coolant system cleaner and a radiator stop leakage which can be used preventively. I am also going to permanently disabling the AFM on software level done by a US car tuner. I heard/ read that the Vortec 5.3L engine in those 3rd Gen Tahoes tends to build up oil sludge so I thought it might be a good idea for a good engine flush. Anything pro or contra? Any feedback is highly appreciated. Please stay safe and healthy! Niels -
Hey all, I am considering changing out all my fluids as I just hit 25k and this is mostly for peace of mind. Truck is 2017 Z71, 6 SP. trans. First, it appears most people do a pan drop drain and fill with gasket replace. Is that beneficial, getting some new fluid in while like 50% is still old/original? Second in the manual for capacities, I do not see trans listed, how do I know how much it even holds total? Thanks.
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Want to drain and fill my coolant, wondering how much the radiator holds? I know specs say the cooling system is 16.6 quarts, but how much will come out of a drain so I have enough on hand? Also, I am assuming DexCool from dealer is concentrate and not pre mixed right? How do you guys mix to ensure 50/50? Do you mix into a spare bottle or something first? Thanks!
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I bought a gallon of Dexron VI from amazon because of price. Was going to do my transfer case and noticed the gallon pump I have is too small for it. The jig has a huge lid! Anyone know a pump that works on these?
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Planning on changing out fluid in my front and rear diffs. Should I put anything on the threads of the plugs when going back in? thank you.
