Jump to content

99 Silverado Door Not Closing?!?


jocko50

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello, have a 99 silverado and the passenger side door will not seal all of a sudden. Checked the weather stripping and all looks to be good. The wind whistling in the cab is driving me nuts!!!! Any ideas? is this common? Thanks

Posted

Is your door out of alignment? Close it just before its about to latch and the watch and see if it lifts up when you close it all the way. If you so you may need some new pins and bushings. I had the same problem in an s10 i had and new pins and bushings fixed it. Because the door was sagging a bit it wasnt sealing right. You can also get some weather stripping and add it to the door or the frame. Hope this helps.

Posted

Thanks for the reply, The door is not closing at the top. I think it might be the 3rd door which is causing it to shift. I have heard people say when the weather gets colder it can effect the rubber seal. Will keep trying. Never had a problem before(weird).

Posted

I think Jrod meant the the front passenger door,and you can bend the top slightly with some technique and a knee placed in a special spot at the latch end of the door and pull the door top in slightly ,it works but ya have to VERY carfull ,not recommended for the light of heart lol but adjust the latch first

Posted

Are you sure it's the door? Some have reported the rear windows leaking because they aren't being held tight when closed

Posted
I think Jrod meant the the front passenger door,and you can bend the top slightly with some technique and a knee placed in a special spot at the latch end of the door and pull the door top in slightly ,it works but ya have to VERY carfull ,not recommended for the light of heart lol but adjust the latch first

 

 

Thanks for the replys guys !!!! You are dead on about having to " Bend the door" Haven't done it yet but thats exactly what looks like that needs to be done. The gap is at the top back of the passenger door. And you can see the door not closed at the top. the lines on the door all look even comparing to the front fender and 3rd door. Can you be a little more specific as to where the best place to put pressure on the door.Window up or closed??

Wait till the wife see's me trying to do this !!!!! Ha ha ha

Posted

If you want to really get your wife going grab a 12lb sledge and a beer and walk out the door...when she asks what your doing...tell her your gonna adjust the door on the truck. :):lol::lol::P

Posted

this like I said ,not for the faint of heart

 

BE VERY CAREFULL

 

open the door and put your back against the "B" pillar,lift up your knee to around waist high at the back of the door ,pull the top of the door towards you,slightly .

 

OR

 

put A 2x4 between the door and pillar and push the top of door slightly.

 

 

please be very carefull ,use little pulls at first

 

 

OMG ,I can't watch lol

Posted

Haven't tried it yet, but what the hell would of caused the door to be out of line like this? You have actually fixed a door like this?

This must be a body man special secret!!!!!

Let you guys know how i make out.

Waiting for the wife to go to work !!!!

I think i will try it with windows down ( more flex-can't break glass)

crazy !!!!!!

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • have you stuck with dealer oil changes since then? I made the same switch after getting tired of crawling around under the truck, but I’ve found some dealers are way better than others about getting you in quickly. Curious if yours has been good about scheduling or if you’ve had to look elsewhere for quicker turnaround.
    • Thank you.   I am set on a 3.0 Duramax as my previous truck with a Ford Ecoboost had just as many, if not more, "common" issues.  Cam phasers, timing chain issues, 10-speed valve body and CDF drum, emissions issues, etc.  So I figured, why not get 2x the fuel mileage (these things got 27+mpg on every mixed city/highway test drive I put them through) and better towing capability with resale value to boot?   My minimum, shortest trip will be 50 miles 1-way and I regularly go out of state with a travel trailer.  I'm planning on using this for a marketing/event promotion business also, which would require regular towing of trailers for bands, DJs, sound and lighting gear, along with my personal camera gear for filming events.   Looked at other trucks in the $30k+ price range but the issues seem to be everywhere, plus too many with gaudy mods.  I'm literally sticking with RWD trucks because they tend to be actually used as trucks, vs. the 4x4 models I've seen with unsafe lifts, huge tires, and general mods that would affect reliability (I'm wondering if some of them were tuned, hence the aggressive throttle response and hard shifting).   So my goal is to find a stock, 3.0 with 1 or 2 owners, in good physical condition, and decently well maintained.  Can't seem to find that up here, everything in the $27-30k range has had multiple owners, smoke smell, issues, or body damage.  Or the ridiculously modified trucks with 80k miles for under $27k but lots of problems...
    • That’s pretty tough Grumpy. I reread the previous few posts. They all reference oil changes. Much like your last thread. In my humble opinion it keeps things interesting.
    • Engine Wear and ISO 4406   1.) Cold Starts. 2.) High Particle Count. 3.) Low operating temperature viscosity and high low temperature cranking viscosity. 4.) Depleted AW, Friction and Acid packages.  5.) High engine load.    https://me.caltexlubricants.com/en_me/home/learning/from-chevron/heavy-duty-diesel-vehicles-and-equipment/The-Importance-of-Clean-Engine-Oil-and-Its-Impact-on-Equipment-and-Business-Performance.html   High particle counts have five sources. 1.) They are manufactured within the engine. Both wear debris and amalgamation of degradation products and combustion driven soot (worse in GDI). 2.) They are ingested via intake air. Ever hear the best oil filter is a good air filter? 3.) They are entrained in the fuel. 4.) This one is insidious. They are introduced in 'fresh oil'. 5.) They are introduced during the oil change.   ISO 4406 is the test that measures and quantifies the combine effects of all of the above particle related issues. You can mitigate your way into multiples of engine life by being attentive to them all.    https://www.hyprofiltration.com/blog/is-new-oil-clean   (from the link above)    [Quote] What Is the Recommended ISO 4406 Cleanliness Code for New Oil?   A good upper limit for new oil cleanliness is 16/14/11 (ISO 4406). Typical new oil usually has ISO codes of 19/17/15 or worse, which is far too dirty for sensitive components. This can be a major cause of degradation and premature failure. [Close quote].     Source of graph: Machinery Lubrication (GM Study)  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...