Installing Pace Edwards Power Tailgate Lock

[2009 LTZ]

Trying to have the power tailgate lock actuater activate/lock with the remote Fob door lock button with one push to FOB door lock button , and only unlock with two pushes of the Fob door lock unlock button like the passenger and rear door locks operate.

 

Does anyone know where I can find/locate the activation wires for the passenger door power lock relay under the dash or hood? If so, what color are they? I don't have a wiring diagram available for my truck. Believe these wires may be the correct place to have the tailgate lock operate with the FOB as desired.

 

I have this posted under the "How To" Forum but thought that perhaps a GM Tech might have the answer to this question.

 

2009 Chevy Silverado LTZ Crew Cab

 

Thanks,

 

Ron

[2009 LTZ]

No one wants a challenge... Come on, I need the help. The unit arrives tomorrow.

[dmaxpower]

No one wants a challenge... Come on, I need the help. The unit arrives tomorrow.

You have a few different options.

 

I'm assuming that the instructions tell you to into the drivers door and get the wires going to the drivers door lock motor. You could do the exact same thing in the passenger door and you would get the results you are after.

 

The other options are to go to the instrument panel fuse block and run a wire from the LCK Fuse 21 (15amp) and the UNLCK Fuse 18 (15amp) to you power tailgate lock. That will also do what you want.

 

Another option is to get the wires coming from the fuse above to rear doors. You could get them in the kick panels or coming out of the fuse block itself. They are grey and tan and will test +12v when your press lock or unlock.

 

Hopefully that's what you're after

[2009 LTZ]

No one wants a challenge... Come on, I need the help. The unit arrives tomorrow.

You have a few different options.

 

I'm assuming that the instructions tell you to into the drivers door and get the wires going to the drivers door lock motor. You could do the exact same thing in the passenger door and you would get the results you are after.

 

The other options are to go to the instrument panel fuse block and run a wire from the LCK Fuse 21 (15amp) and the UNLCK Fuse 18 (15amp) to you power tailgate lock. That will also do what you want.

 

Another option is to get the wires coming from the fuse above to rear doors. You could get them in the kick panels or coming out of the fuse block itself. They are grey and tan and will test +12v when your press lock or unlock.

 

Hopefully that's what you're after

 

 

Thanks for the response and assistance. Yes, the instructions say to tap into the door lock wires in the drivers door. I figured the passenger door would work for my desired results but was hoping to avoid pulling off the door panel. I like the LCK fuse 21 and UNLK fuse 18 solution. Is each one of htese made hot/activated by the FOB button when pushed? Is this the same effect as tapping into the grey and tan wires in the door? What is the best way to attach the wires to the 18 and 21 fuses? Is there a connection I can buy to jump off of a fuse block?

 

Ron

[dmaxpower]

No one wants a challenge... Come on, I need the help. The unit arrives tomorrow.

You have a few different options.

 

I'm assuming that the instructions tell you to into the drivers door and get the wires going to the drivers door lock motor. You could do the exact same thing in the passenger door and you would get the results you are after.

 

The other options are to go to the instrument panel fuse block and run a wire from the LCK Fuse 21 (15amp) and the UNLCK Fuse 18 (15amp) to you power tailgate lock. That will also do what you want.

 

Another option is to get the wires coming from the fuse above to rear doors. You could get them in the kick panels or coming out of the fuse block itself. They are grey and tan and will test +12v when your press lock or unlock.

 

Hopefully that's what you're after

 

 

Thanks for the response and assistance. Yes, the instructions say to tap into the door lock wires in the drivers door. I figured the passenger door would work for my desired results but was hoping to avoid pulling off the door panel. I like the LCK fuse 21 and UNLK fuse 18 solution. Is each one of htese made hot/activated by the FOB button when pushed? Is this the same effect as tapping into the grey and tan wires in the door? What is the best way to attach the wires to the 18 and 21 fuses? Is there a connection I can buy to jump off of a fuse block?

 

Ron

 

 

Yes each fuse is made 'hot' on press of 2nd unlock or lock accordingly.

Fuse taps would likely work well. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00030CR4E

 

Yes the fuses are the same as the grey and tan wires.

[2009 LTZ]

What is the difference between fuse 18 and 21 lock and unlock 2 versus fuse 9 ad 10 lock and unlock 1? Does this relate to the FOB button pushes - 1 push or 2? I can't find any information that decribes the difference in these fuses/circuits.

 

I hooked my tailgate locker to fuse 18 and 21 and everything works great EXCEPT my 2 BACK doors do not unlock now? All of the other doors and the tailgate work fine. Any ideas?

 

Ron

[2009 LTZ]

Well it's all done and working. Not the "easy" install that Pace Edwards claims for this product.

 

Word of advice for those doing this: I used the Trailer Brake Post on the engine bay fuse panel for my power. I ran the 2 wires from the relay units through the grommet in the firewall used by the parking brake cable (it on the upper right of the firewall by the brake booster). For the door actuater connection, simply pull the instrument panel cover off (by the drivers door on the outside wedge of the dash) and take the bottom left wire plug in out of the fuse box by releasing the lever. Then use wire connection taps and connect one of the wires from the relays to the tan wire and the other relay wire to the gray wire on the connection. Plug back in and test with your Fob. If I had it to do again, it's about an hour job. This time it took me about 8 hours. No need to tap with the fuse, use the wires in the door, or go under the dash as the wires are right out front and exposed in the instrument fuse panel.

 

Ron

[kiowamtp]

Well it's all done and working. Not the "easy" install that Pace Edwards claims for this product.

 

Word of advice for those doing this: I used the Trailer Brake Post on the engine bay fuse panel for my power. I ran the 2 wires from the relay units through the grommet in the firewall used by the parking brake cable (it on the upper right of the firewall by the brake booster). For the door actuater connection, simply pull the instrument panel cover off (by the drivers door on the outside wedge of the dash) and take the bottom left wire plug in out of the fuse box by releasing the lever. Then use wire connection taps and connect one of the wires from the relays to the tan wire and the other relay wire to the gray wire on the connection. Plug back in and test with your Fob. If I had it to do again, it's about an hour job. This time it took me about 8 hours. No need to tap with the fuse, use the wires in the door, or go under the dash as the wires are right out front and exposed in the instrument fuse panel.

 

Ron

 

 

I am about to do this same thing, and was wondering if you could post a pic of the where your wires ran into and how you tapped into it. Thanks