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Inner Tie Rod End

az'03Silverado

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az'03Silverado Senior Enthusiast

az'03Silverado

Posted
Posted

Greetings!

 

I have a 2003 1500 ECSB 4x2 with rack and pinion steering. A while back I had the left-side inner tie-rod end replaced under warranty because of some clunking in the steering. Later, after warranty was gone, I paid the dealer to replace the right side tie rod end for the same reason. Now, the left side is worn and is in need of replacement. (When I grab the front tire on the 3 and 9 o'clock positions and shake it back and forth I can feel a slight pop indicating a loose connection) I have three questions.

 

-How difficult is this to do myself?

-What's involved?

-What does the tie-rod end need to be torqued to? Any thread sealant needed?

Spurshot Senior Enthusiast

Spurshot

Posted
Posted

Sam,

I don't have the manual for you truck. But, I've changed inner tierods on other vehicles. So, I can only provide general information.

 

To me, it makes little sense changing one component at a time in the steering. Go thru all the components that wear at the same time to get the steering system back up to par. On a rack n pinion system, there aren't all that many that really wearout commonly. Inner and outer tierods are the parts that wear most. I'd recommend you change all of them together. You're gonna pay the same price for an alignment whether all parts are replaced or one. You'll feel better too.

 

Before you remove the old inner tierod, measure the length from the base of the inner tierod to the steering knuckle or outer tierod. Do the best you can. It won't be a precision measurement. When you replace the inner and outer tierods, adjust the outer until you get close to your measurement.

 

When you've replaced all the parts, jack the front up and spin the tire, mark a line on each tire. The line has to be true to the rotating tire, no wobbly lines. Let the front end down. Using a friend to hold a measuring tape on one of the tire marks, measure the front and back of the tires as best you can. Adjust your outer tierods until you get about a 1/8" smaller measurement in the front. Drive it to an alignment shop asap. The quicky alignment will get you in the ballpark, maybe better. Still, you'll want it professionally aligned asap.

 

Before you start this, get a manual for your truck. The Helms factory manual is the best. They're a little over $100 and will be the best money you spend on your truck during the time you have it.

jblakeney Senior Enthusiast

jblakeney

Posted
Posted

I did mine at last thanksgiving. It is pretty straight forward....... But is seems like I had to have a 30,31,32,33,34,35,36 something end wrench for the tie rod and a 12 or 15 inch back up crescent wrench. Cinch it good and snug and then stake the joint to the rack.

 

I would suggest pulling the rack and putting it in a vice thou.

 

Jbo

jblakeney Senior Enthusiast

jblakeney

Posted
Posted
The kit I got from the dealer says to apply loctite 262 and torque to 89ft/lbs. It doesn't mention staking. What does that mean? and is it necessary?

 

GM service manual for my truck says to tighten to some spec and then stake the tie rod. Staking is you take a punch and strike the area that is threaded (thus making a flat spot in the threads that locks down the nut or tie rod).... I don't recall the manual saying anything about the 262 Loctite...... But my manual is for a 99 gmt800.....

 

But the loctite 262 and 89ftlbs sounds like the ticket if thats what gm said in the kit...

 

Jbo

az'03Silverado Senior Enthusiast

az'03Silverado

Posted
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Posted

I still haven't gotten around to changing the tie rod end yet but thanks for all of the good information. I need to do it quick because I just had new tires put on and don't want to ruin them.

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