Jump to content

Inner Tie Rod End

az'03Silverado

Recommended Posts

az'03Silverado Senior Enthusiast

az'03Silverado

Posted
Posted

Greetings!

 

I have a 2003 1500 ECSB 4x2 with rack and pinion steering. A while back I had the left-side inner tie-rod end replaced under warranty because of some clunking in the steering. Later, after warranty was gone, I paid the dealer to replace the right side tie rod end for the same reason. Now, the left side is worn and is in need of replacement. (When I grab the front tire on the 3 and 9 o'clock positions and shake it back and forth I can feel a slight pop indicating a loose connection) I have three questions.

 

-How difficult is this to do myself?

-What's involved?

-What does the tie-rod end need to be torqued to? Any thread sealant needed?

Spurshot Senior Enthusiast

Spurshot

Posted
Posted

Sam,

I don't have the manual for you truck. But, I've changed inner tierods on other vehicles. So, I can only provide general information.

 

To me, it makes little sense changing one component at a time in the steering. Go thru all the components that wear at the same time to get the steering system back up to par. On a rack n pinion system, there aren't all that many that really wearout commonly. Inner and outer tierods are the parts that wear most. I'd recommend you change all of them together. You're gonna pay the same price for an alignment whether all parts are replaced or one. You'll feel better too.

 

Before you remove the old inner tierod, measure the length from the base of the inner tierod to the steering knuckle or outer tierod. Do the best you can. It won't be a precision measurement. When you replace the inner and outer tierods, adjust the outer until you get close to your measurement.

 

When you've replaced all the parts, jack the front up and spin the tire, mark a line on each tire. The line has to be true to the rotating tire, no wobbly lines. Let the front end down. Using a friend to hold a measuring tape on one of the tire marks, measure the front and back of the tires as best you can. Adjust your outer tierods until you get about a 1/8" smaller measurement in the front. Drive it to an alignment shop asap. The quicky alignment will get you in the ballpark, maybe better. Still, you'll want it professionally aligned asap.

 

Before you start this, get a manual for your truck. The Helms factory manual is the best. They're a little over $100 and will be the best money you spend on your truck during the time you have it.

jblakeney Senior Enthusiast

jblakeney

Posted
Posted

I did mine at last thanksgiving. It is pretty straight forward....... But is seems like I had to have a 30,31,32,33,34,35,36 something end wrench for the tie rod and a 12 or 15 inch back up crescent wrench. Cinch it good and snug and then stake the joint to the rack.

 

I would suggest pulling the rack and putting it in a vice thou.

 

Jbo

jblakeney Senior Enthusiast

jblakeney

Posted
Posted
The kit I got from the dealer says to apply loctite 262 and torque to 89ft/lbs. It doesn't mention staking. What does that mean? and is it necessary?

 

GM service manual for my truck says to tighten to some spec and then stake the tie rod. Staking is you take a punch and strike the area that is threaded (thus making a flat spot in the threads that locks down the nut or tie rod).... I don't recall the manual saying anything about the 262 Loctite...... But my manual is for a 99 gmt800.....

 

But the loctite 262 and 89ftlbs sounds like the ticket if thats what gm said in the kit...

 

Jbo

az'03Silverado Senior Enthusiast

az'03Silverado

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I still haven't gotten around to changing the tie rod end yet but thanks for all of the good information. I need to do it quick because I just had new tires put on and don't want to ruin them.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,837
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    bellssn690
    Newest Member
    bellssn690
    Joined

  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 522 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • cautious optimist
      GM Hard Folding Tonneau by REV review

      By cautious optimist · Posted

      This is a really late reply but I just found this thread. They won't sell the hinges. I've gone 7 rounds with them. Their solution is to buy a new cover. I'm about to buy a new cover and it won't be a Bakflip. It also won't be from realtruck.com. 
    • Chuck FB
      2 speed transfer case optional now?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Yes, and also pulling heavy trailers or a large camper up steep grades as well as descending grades such as the more rustic off road camping locations and using engine braking with that low gearing as well as soft ground can just suck the power . I realize pickups these days tend to have an over all lower first gear ratio compared to automatic transmission pickups from years back so that has helped a lot in its ability in high range but there comes a point if in four wheel drive the torque runs out at the wheels, certainly with a gas engine. They don't put two speed transfer cases on pickups for a cool factor, they have a function if one needs that massive torque to the wheels that high range can't deliver. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Grumpy Bears 2015 Silverado 2WD

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Notes 7/18/2026   3,400 miles on this batch of Mobil 1 Euro 5W40 since the GDI pump replacement. Alcohol runs very clean when ring seal is tight and the sump isn't getting hosed with fuel. Checked oil level at fill up today as is my practice and grabbed a white Kleenex to look at the color. What color?  I was going to change it but.....  
    • Another JR
      2 speed transfer case optional now?

      By Another JR · Posted

      4 low is really nice on steep boat ramps. 
    • Chuck FB
      Gas Prices

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Interesting, I suspect I would have fueled up in Lee Vining as the day prior I would have filled up either in Laughlin or near there and maybe again before I entered Death Valley and once out the other side late that evening as I kept on driving into the night up near Lee Vining. Next morning I most likely fueled up in LV before heading over Tioga Pass into ( as I refer to it as "Yose .... Mite" 😁 ). And again that was 19 years ago but the price then must not have jumped out at me like the 5 bill a gallon theme of nutty cult hippy country Big Sir or head so far up their rear Aspen. I'd be curious to know where the highest prices are in the lower 48, I probably would not be far off to guess somewhere in Cali forn ie. Coldfoot and Prudhoe bay may have those prices beat but that is a whole other world up there and when prices are more normal elsewhere that is about what they can be up there I believe in no mans land. Anyway interesting that the 395 corridor is hosing people and the thing is, its tourist season and its not like there are a lot of competition options when driving up that highway from what I could see. Yup, big ole Boaterhomes and various other RV's ahead and behind me at the Yosemite entrance gate and they have to get their fuel somewhere.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...